Mechanical vs. VV and Batteries

[fraghole]

Hey all, still a little new at this, and have some questions concerning mod platforms. Why would one prefer mechanical over VV, and vise versa? What advantages are there to mechanical?

Now on to batteries. I come from the world of RC heli's, and li-po batteries. With my heli batteries (li-po's), it's critical not to over discharge. This can ruin, and in some cases even may become very dangerous when trying to charge an over discharged battery. All of my mods alert me when the battery becomes low. How do you know with a mechanical? How sensitive are the AW IMR's over discharge? I know (or at least I think I know) flavor, and vapor will drop as the battery drops, but how do you know, or do you just run it until it's dead?

I will getting my first mechanical in a few months, and really need to have this battery stuff figured out before hand.

A big thanks to any that respond.

 

[Buzzsaw46]

Fellow heli guy here.

I just got my first unregulated mod a few weeks ago and the vape starts getting weak towards the end of the battery. I haven't checked the voltage at that point yet but I guess I really should. I just swap batts as soon as I notice the weak vape and dont push it.

 

[PhreakySTS9]

Fellow heli guy here.

I just got my first unregulated mod a few weeks ago and the vape starts getting weak towards the end of the battery. I haven't checked the voltage at that point yet but I guess I really should. I just swap batts as soon as I notice the weak vape and dont push it.

This
......

 

[grandmato5]

My VV APV's allow me to easily change voltage to match the ohms of my attys or cartos/clearos to get a vape I enjoy best no matter what I am using. My VV's have added safety protections built in that all mechanical APV's don't have. All my VV APV's have a protection that stops them from working when they have reached a low point in battery charge.

Two of my three all mechanical APV models have lifetime warranties and should last a very long time if not forever if I don't abuse them. The build quality on all of them is excellent. I like not having to worry about electronics that will stop working at some point. They work very well with all my RA's. (I always check the ohm of my RA's before using). I use a combination of sensing the drop off in voltage which is easy to sense and knowing from previous usage times when its time to change batteries. One of my mechanical APV's uses 18650 batteries and the other two use 18350 batteries. I've never run my batteries in my all mechanicals until they stop working. IMO a multimeter is important for all vapers to check from time to time their batteries coming out of all APV's and coming off the chargers but when using all mechanical APV's I find it essential

 

[Buzzsaw46]

I dug my mutimeter out and switched to my unregulated mod right after my last post just to see what voltage I'm at when it gets weak on me.

 

[dBm0]

Hey, just a tip I picked up. Apparently, I’ve been checking my batteries fresh off the charger wrong all along. Was using just a multi-meter to test my batteries fresh off the charger, but seems we need a load to get an accurate reading. (Thanks @mrt for the education on this) Verified using a ProVari to check the battery volts with an atty attached and get much different readings than I did using just a multi-meter.
General Questions: Battery Testing


My 2c to OP. Definitely prefer VV or VW mods over bare-bones mechanical mods because we have complete control of our vaping experience by being able to tweek the wattage at the coils for whatever juice type or atty/tank system we’re using. Allows you total flexibility to fine tune it to hit your “sweet-spot” wattage. Bare-bones mechanical mods don't regulate the output voltage, so you’re kind of stuck with whatever the wattage at the coil is and it's not even a consistent wattage as the battery drains like Buzzsaw46 said above. Adding a Kick to a bare-bone mechanical solves a lot of that by adding some safety features and giving you the ability to adjust to a set regulated wattage that YOU like.

 

[Faylool]

For $15 there is a volt reader Passthrough thingy. You can read the volts by screwing it on a 510 and then you can attach the carto or atty and fire it up to see what volts are getting throu. They go down. It's quick and if your going to have a mechanical od you should have one or at least a multimeter. I bought a ohms checker too. Same thing. Screw it in. Has two style heads. It's surprising sometimes because I think I'm using a 1.8 and everything is weird so I check to find I absent mindedly put a 3.00 ohm on. Or if you ever try rebuildables it's essential to have an ohm reader or multi meter.

 

[PhreakySTS9]

Hey, just a tip I picked up. Apparently, I’ve been checking my batteries fresh off the charger wrong all along. Was using just a multi-meter to test my batteries fresh off the charger, but seems we need a load to get an accurate reading. (Thanks @mrt for the education on this) Verified using a ProVari to check the battery volts with an atty attached and get much different readings than I did using just a multi-meter.
General Questions: Battery Testing


My 2c to OP. Definitely prefer VV or VW mods over bare-bones mechanical mods because we have complete control of our vaping experience by being able to tweek the wattage at the coils for whatever juice type or atty/tank system we’re using. Allows you total flexibility to fine tune it to hit your “sweet-spot” wattage. Bare-bones mechanical mods don't regulate the output voltage, so you’re kind of stuck with whatever the wattage at the coil is and it's not even a consistent wattage as the battery drains like Buzzsaw46 said above. Adding a Kick to a bare-bone mechanical solves a lot of that by adding some safety features and giving you the ability to adjust to a set regulated wattage that YOU like.

Yes but for those of us that exclusively use RBA's (haven't used an atty or carto in months) we still have complete control over our vapes. If you throw a 1ohm coil onto an RBA it will hit you like a freight train for the entire battery cycle and batts last longer. I get a longer vape time out of my GGTB with AW IC 17670 1600mAh batts, than my Provari V2 with AW IMR 18650 2000mAh batts.

 

[TheDarthVap3r]

sorry to jack the thread slightly here.


im using a vv mod but it has no screen or buttons to change the voltage it uses a screw mechanism, ( its a saber if this helps) i use the voltmeter to determine what voltage im vaping at.

how do i measure my batteries? and what benifit does this have in relation to the mod? im new to this and just presumed if the batter works , job done.

thanks in advance and once again apologies for threadjacking.

 

[Thrasher]

Hey, just a tip I picked up. Apparently, I’ve been checking my batteries fresh off the charger wrong all along. Was using just a multi-meter to test my batteries fresh off the charger, but seems we need a load to get an accurate reading.

under load and off the charger at rest are two different things, and almost all imr batteries can drop a bit after sitting, they still need to be checked occasional after charging, not for the charge held, but to make sure they are not being overcharged,(more to test the charger) as this will ruin an IMR battery. same with running low, too low and you will damage the chemistry making it impossible for the ions to accept the charge.

 

[440BB]

A completely mechanical mod has no wires to break loose and no electronics to fail. With a collapsible spring and either a safer chemistry battery or a protected battery, there is little to fail. If it is to be used in situations where it may get dropped or wet, it is more likely to survive.

 

[fraghole]

Yes but for those of us that exclusively use RBA's (haven't used an atty or carto in months) we still have complete control over our vapes. If you throw a 1ohm coil onto an RBA it will hit you like a freight train for the entire battery cycle and batts last longer. I get a longer vape time out of my GGTB with AW IC 17670 1600mAh batts, than my Provari V2 with AW IMR 18650 2000mAh batts.

I noticed with your GGTB you use IC, and with your provari your using IMR. Are the IC's better in a mechanical mod? I apologize in advance if this has been asked a thousand times before. I'm a little new at this, and have my pv mini and cobra working really well, but I am in on a co-op for mechanical mod which will be my first.

Thanks

 

[fraghole]

I noticed with your GGTB you use IC, and with your provari your using IMR. Are the IC's better in a mechanical mod? I apologize in advance if this has been asked a thousand times before. I'm a little new at this, and have my pv mini and cobra working really well, but I am in on a co-op for mechanical mod which will be my first.

Thanks

Removed my last edit. Thought I was in a different thread.

 

[jimmyh]

I use a Legacy Mini and I also own a Young June vv. My main device is my Legacy. It works great for me and if I want more control I can add the extension sleeve with a kick. My YJ has become my ohm checker. I use my ego-t with my vision et more than the YJ., but that is me.

 

[Buzzsaw46]

Hey all, still a little new at this, and have some questions concerning mod platforms. Why would one prefer mechanical over VV, and vise versa? What advantages are there to mechanical?

Now on to batteries. I come from the world of RC heli's, and li-po batteries. With my heli batteries (li-po's), it's critical not to over discharge. This can ruin, and in some cases even may become very dangerous when trying to charge an over discharged battery. All of my mods alert me when the battery becomes low. How do you know with a mechanical? How sensitive are the AW IMR's over discharge? I know (or at least I think I know) flavor, and vapor will drop as the battery drops, but how do you know, or do you just run it until it's dead?

I will getting my first mechanical in a few months, and really need to have this battery stuff figured out before hand.

A big thanks to any that respond.

Well I ran my Bolt down to an unsatisfactory vape, pulled the battery and checked it, I'm at 3.72v