Mechanical vs. VV/VW - what am I missing?

[Datalux]

So I've "grown up" in the VV/VW generation (for a whole month) and I don't seem to quite understand the Mechanical mod's voltage characteristics.

I have a fresh 3.7v battery in a VW device and I vape at 7-8 watts all day, every day until it stops and then I know I have to replace the battery. I can put any resistance carto or atty on it, and still get my 7-8 watts all day.

With a mechanical mod, I have the same fresh 3.7v battery with no regulation, and my 1.7ohm carto now vapes at 8.05 watts in the morning and diminishes to 6.02 watts by the end of the day? (my VW device shuts off at 3.2v) My 2.2ohm carto starts at 6.22 ohms and finishes at 4.65 ohms? Gack! I don't think I could vape at 4.65 watts....

(figures taken from the voltage charts floating around here)

I may be off on my fresh battery voltage, I think they actually come off the charger around 4.1-4.2v (which would mean my 1.7ohm carto is 9-10 watts with a fresh battery which seems too high for me) but you get the idea.

Do I understand this correctly??

Second, how do you know when to change your battery? I'm guessing using a protected battery keeps it from over discharging and shuts it off at the correct low voltage?

I realize you can put a "Kick" or "Crown" in them, but I'm considering a Mechanical for work and using single 16350's for a smaller overall footprint and haven't seen many that can use a 16350 AND a Kick.

Any help would be appreciated as I haven't been able to find the specifics on this using various searches....

 

[StaircaseWit]

You understand everything correctly except this:

"I can put any resistance carto or atty on it"

People often use mechanicals to run very low-resistance coils, typically on Genesis-style RBAs. 0.7 ohm coils won't run on any VV/VW device due to electronic amperage limits and short protection. Mechanicals allow you to use the full amperage capacity of the installed battery (and yes, that means you can run dangerously high amp loads).

The "change throughout the day" issue isn't as pronounced as you might think, and batteries tend to last longer in pure mechanical mods.

There are a few other esoteric reasons, but that's the gist of it.

 

[Thompson]

They are also pretty much impossible to ruin. They have so few parts and none of them are electronics.

Can be noticeably smaller than VV/VW as there is no required circuitry.

Mostly don't use protected cells, but LiMn AKA IMR batteries. They have a higher amp & C limit than protected, allowing the full use of the low ohm coils (sub one).

 

[Fury83]

I change my battery when I notice the decline if I am at home or when I get home if I am out.

I don't know what to tell you about your other questions. If it's VV, you adjust the volts to set the watts. If it's VW, you set a target wattage and it adjusts the volts. If it's mechanical you use a resistance that hits your target wattage.

Mech mods are smaller, mostly prettier and only limited in power by the battery.

I have and use all three...so I dunno.

Case in point...Gus Telescopic with an 18650 in it is about the same same as a Provari Mini with an 18350

 

[Commie]

Well, I got a Vamo to get onto the VW wagon. Found a very strange thing -- I can barely notice the difference as I raise the voltage.

Normally, on my Reo, I vape at about 10-12 watts. On a Vamo, slowly going from 6 to 15 watts, the only thing I notice is that past about 12 watt, my clearo starts frying the juice. Don't really notice difference in taste/throat hit beyond that. I guess I should have tried it with the same atomizer as on a Reo.

So, I guess, it's all very subjective. Some people for one reason or another don't seem to notice the dropping voltage in the battery, and I'm one of the lucky them As long as there's still a ton of vapor, I'm happy.

Disclaimer: I know it's apples and oranges. I'm not trying to compare price/build quality/shape/number of buttons/battery size between Vamo and Reo. Just the taste.

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

You understand everything correctly except this:

"I can put any resistance carto or atty on it"

People often use mechanicals to run very low-resistance coils, typically on Genesis-style RBAs. 0.7 ohm coils won't run on any VV/VW device due to electronic amperage limits and short protection. Mechanicals allow you to use the full amperage capacity of the installed battery (and yes, that means you can run dangerously high amp loads).

The "change throughout the day" issue isn't as pronounced as you might think, and batteries tend to last longer in pure mechanical mods.

There are a few other esoteric reasons, but that's the gist of it.

This this this this^.

 

[juicejunky]

Second, how do you know when to change your battery? I'm guessing using a protected battery keeps it from over discharging and shuts it off at the correct low voltage?

With the recommended, unprotected IMR chemistry batteries, you can over discharge them because they won't shut off. They require more discipline to notice the drop off and switch them out. Whatever your preferred atty resistance at the good vaping 3.7 to 4.2 volts, it starts tasting pretty weak and unsatisfying at 3.6, so it's pretty clear it's time. The good news is if you are a few blocks from home, you can always snag a few more hits.

You do not vape them until them stop working. No electronics, so you make the decision that it is time for a charge.