To me, the metal Reos are better "travel" devices, especially since I don't own a car (motorcycle only). The Woodvil and eventual Dibi will be for at home use.
mechanical woodvil prototype
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To me, the metal Reos are better "travel" devices, especially since I don't own a car (motorcycle only). The Woodvil and eventual Dibi will be for at home use.
I don't leave the house much so wood REOs work for me. Even before my accident I seldom took a REO with me when I would run errands.
Wood goes with me everywhere. I find it durable enough to drop off concrete columns, get flung across gravel parking lots, and still be a dead sexy beast.
I wouldn't own it if It couldn't be an EDC. Once you get that first scratch, anxiety levels drop significantly
I'm really excited about this next run! Might even sell some anodized 18490's to make some room.
I've decided it's 18650 and 6ml bottles for me. But those mini's are so darn cool.
I wouldn't own it if It couldn't be an EDC. Once you get that first scratch, anxiety levels drop significantly
I'm really excited about this next run! Might even sell some anodized 18490's to make some room.
I've decided it's 18650 and 6ml bottles for me. But those mini's are so darn cool.
Do any of you out there with Woodvils experience warpage on your doors??? That has been my biggest issue with our woodies.
My ladies birdseye maple door on her 18490 warped big time, also slight warpage on my KOA woodvil, and a little on my Utile/ebony 18500. It's very annoying as the door not being flush tilting back and forth when squonking and holding. My lady constantly clicks her door as it is curled up on the ends and low in the middle, makes me nuts! Kind of like when I first got my metal REO and would slide the door up and down, used to drive her crazy!
I was thinking I could maybe hold them over some steam to get moisture in the wood then lay them flat with something heavy on them until they dry to get the curve out of them?
Rob said that I could send back after the wood run and he could make new doors but would need the mods back so he could refit and sand if all else fails.
Any woodworkers out there with any ideas?
Another reason I can't wait for Resin!!!
My ladies birdseye maple door on her 18490 warped big time, also slight warpage on my KOA woodvil, and a little on my Utile/ebony 18500. It's very annoying as the door not being flush tilting back and forth when squonking and holding. My lady constantly clicks her door as it is curled up on the ends and low in the middle, makes me nuts! Kind of like when I first got my metal REO and would slide the door up and down, used to drive her crazy!
I was thinking I could maybe hold them over some steam to get moisture in the wood then lay them flat with something heavy on them until they dry to get the curve out of them?
Rob said that I could send back after the wood run and he could make new doors but would need the mods back so he could refit and sand if all else fails.
Any woodworkers out there with any ideas?
Another reason I can't wait for Resin!!!
Mine are all stabilized wood so its done changing. When I did have natural wood the only issues I had was magnets becoming too week over time so the door would move too easily. Certain types of wood can warp easier than others.
Changes in humidity will affect the swelling and shrinking of the doors for all wood for that matter. I firmly believe that if you keep your wood mod protected with a product such as Howard Feed N Wax, you will all but eliminate measurable warpage.
Visualize the change in firewood as it seasons; splits, checks and warps as the moisture dissipates.
Visualize the change in firewood as it seasons; splits, checks and warps as the moisture dissipates.
That's where I ran into my problems. I have a beach house that I go to on weekends. I didn't actually take the woodies to the beach but with them in the cottage during the day with the heat then at night it would get cool and a lot of moisture in the air so in the morning everything is moist. I'm sure that's what caused the warps. I now know not to take them where humidity & moisture will take a toll but was wondering if there was a way to get them flat again..
I agree with element, I kick the crap out of my wood mods and the woodvils hold up just fine to the abuse
rudy if I had that problem one thing I would think to try would be to soak the door in water for a bit then try to place a heavy weight on it to flatten it and let it dry like that... I'm not saying I know for sure this will work but it is what I would try to do, either that or just make a new door for it which isn't all that hard even for a basic tinkerer with common tools I think
rudy if I had that problem one thing I would think to try would be to soak the door in water for a bit then try to place a heavy weight on it to flatten it and let it dry like that... I'm not saying I know for sure this will work but it is what I would try to do, either that or just make a new door for it which isn't all that hard even for a basic tinkerer with common tools I think
In general wood warps bad when the two side are not evenly finished or they are subjected to different moisture levels. It's important to treat the inside and outside of the wood Reos so they absorb moisture evenly.
I've had a door warp on wood from a different manufacture that did not have the tongue and groove slides that warped but not any of my Woodvil doors.
I sealed the warped door in a Tupperware with a soaking wet paper towel for a several days. Then I pressed it flat against a level surface with two clamps and let it site for week to dry in that position.
I've had a door warp on wood from a different manufacture that did not have the tongue and groove slides that warped but not any of my Woodvil doors.
I sealed the warped door in a Tupperware with a soaking wet paper towel for a several days. Then I pressed it flat against a level surface with two clamps and let it site for week to dry in that position.
That's what I was thinking, soaking in water then let it dry on a flat surface with weight on it. I figure it can't make it worse! Just not sure how long I need to soak it for?
If that doesn't work I may try to make a replacement. I am okay with tools but just have the basics. The only challenge I see with a new door is getting that angle on the edges correct so it slides in the groove of the body.
I would soak it for an hour or so at least I guess, ideally soak it till it's somewhat pliable...
Yeah, one of my 18650 Woodvils, Wenge Wood w/ quilted maple door has begun to warp a little bit. To the degree that I have to slide it up and out and can't easily slide it down to take off. One side is polyurethaned and the inside is not. The woodvils get the Howards Feed & Wax inside and out once every 4 to 6 weeks. It's not a big problem and hopefully it won't get any worse. Never thought about having Rob make me a new door. Will tuck that bit of info away for future reference. I think I'll not be soaking the door until I hear more about it or if the Mod Master signs off on it.
When I first got my Cocobolo, there was a time I couldn't budge the door. Remember that the Cocobolo are naked, no polyurathane. Rob suggested a rubber mallet would be ok to use to get it started (cuz evidently that Cocobolo is real hard and can take a knocking). That worked and then I just lightly sanded the edge of the door to compensate for the expansion of the wood. Never have had a problem since.
BTW, I live in No. Calif. (Bay Area) so we don't get a huge humidity change but I guess that's all relative, huh?
Good luck and let us know what course of action you take.
When I first got my Cocobolo, there was a time I couldn't budge the door. Remember that the Cocobolo are naked, no polyurathane. Rob suggested a rubber mallet would be ok to use to get it started (cuz evidently that Cocobolo is real hard and can take a knocking). That worked and then I just lightly sanded the edge of the door to compensate for the expansion of the wood. Never have had a problem since.
BTW, I live in No. Calif. (Bay Area) so we don't get a huge humidity change but I guess that's all relative, huh?
Good luck and let us know what course of action you take.
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The last Woodvil sale was 7pm Fri night (Maine USA time), which is Sat morning 10am on the east coast of Australia. Plenty of time to wake up and have a few cups of coffee
That can work but it'll have an even greater effect if you can soak it in hot water then clamp it so that you force it very slightly the opposite direction to allow for spring back.
Thing is, it's wood, and that's what wood does, I live in the Pacific Northwest where humidity levels can go from 40% to 99% in a couple days depending on the season...my Woodvils are like little hand-held weather stations...a nice tight door means get my umbrella.
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