mechanical woodvil prototype

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Filthy-Beast

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wow that's a lot, Soak it for an hour, put in a Tupperware with a wet paper towel, let it sit for a few days so that center get's moisture and it can equalize through-out.

Don't clamp it all the way right off the bat, go in stages over an hour or so. Let sit for week or more to dry-out and stabilizes moisture all the way through it.
 

rudy4653

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wow that's a lot, Soak it for an hour, put in a Tupperware with a wet paper towel, let it sit for a few days so that center get's moisture and it can equalize through-out.

Don't clamp it all the way right off the bat, go in stages over an hour or so. Let sit for week or more to dry-out and stabilizes moisture all the way through it.

I know right!
I'm wondering if I should sand off the poly layer before soaking? next challenge will be prying it out of my lady's hand for a week!
 

Quigsworth

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Here is the worst one. Birdseye Maple - poly exterior
View attachment 404416View attachment 404417View attachment 404418

On a door warped like that you'll most likely not be able to soak/bend and expect it to stay that way but for what it's worth, it's warped in a good direction...

if you want to try a small project (and really, you have nothing to lose?)

There's a tool called a Japanese Dovetail saw (there great to have around especially if you're a modder)...it's a "saw" version of a bread knife...they're super thin and sharp!...what you can do is lay down your door curve up, using a metal ruler as a guide, cut slots length wise about a 1/4" apart (closer together at the worst of the curve) in the back of the door, you may have to temporarily remove the magnet . Cut until you're about 3/4's of the way through (keep the outside face pretty :D)...what you're doing is basically making relief cuts which will allow you to bend the door back...

Mix up some good 2 part clear epoxy and smear it into the cuts, place a piece of wax paper on the glue side (very important step :facepalm:), then clamp it between two pieces of flat wood and let cure, sand/clean up.

The door will be narrower than stock and will move about but it'll be flat...worst case, like Turbo said...make a new door (or maybe Rob has something kicking around)
 

rudy4653

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On a door warped like that you'll most likely not be able to soak/bend and expect it to stay that way but for what it's worth, it's warped in a good direction...

if you want to try a small project (and really, you have nothing to lose?)

There's a tool called a Japanese Dovetail saw (there great to have around especially if you're a modder)...it's a "saw" version of a bread knife...they're super thin and sharp!...what you can do is lay down your door curve up, using a metal ruler as a guide, cut slots length wise about a 1/4" apart (closer together at the worst of the curve) in the back of the door, you may have to temporarily remove the magnet . Cut until you're about 3/4's of the way through (keep the outside face pretty :D)...what you're doing is basically making relief cuts which will allow you to bend the door back...

Mix up some good 2 part clear epoxy and smear it into the cuts, place a piece of wax paper on the glue side (very important step :facepalm:), then clamp it between two pieces of flat wood and let cure, sand/clean up.

The door will be narrower than stock and will move about but it'll be flat...worst case, like Turbo said...make a new door (or maybe Rob has something kicking around)

Thanks for the input.
Do I soak the wood first before cutting slots? Instead of the saw you mentioned could I just use a Dremel with cutting tool to cut the slots? Do I cut the slots down the complete length of the door? Sounds like it could work! If not I'll just find some decent wood and make her a new door, if that fails beg Rob after the wood run and see if he can make me another. :confused:
 

Tony Spectacular

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I would soak it for an hour or so at least I guess, ideally soak it till it's somewhat pliable...

My concern with this (bearing in mind that I don't have and never have had a Woodvil) would be that while you might get the door back flat, the flanges might swell to the point where the door doesn't fit back into the body.
 

rudy4653

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Just found this online at a local craft store. Little pieces of wood for whittling. Not fancy but flat! :)
Might be worth getting and just make a new door. Not as pretty as Birdseye maple but could hold her over for awhile!
IMG_00000705.jpg
 

Filthy-Beast

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If I was going to make a new door, I'd look at stabilized woods as they look great and solve the problem of moisture absorption. Going forward I'd look to only buy Woods with a natural finish instead of poly coated. That way you can treat the inside and out the same and have even moisture absorption.
 

rudy4653

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If I was going to make a new door, I'd look at stabilized woods as they look great and solve the problem of moisture absorption. Going forward I'd look to only buy Woods with a natural finish instead of poly coated. That way you can treat the inside and out the same and have even moisture absorption.

I agree about treating inside & outside at same time. My KOA just has tonque oil in and out and I had less warpage than the 1 sided poly coat maple.
I think I'll try making a door with cheap wood first as a trial run and if I do fine with it move on up to a stabilized beauty!
 

Quigsworth

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Thanks for the input.
Do I soak the wood first before cutting slots? Instead of the saw you mentioned could I just use a Dremel with cutting tool to cut the slots? Do I cut the slots down the complete length of the door? Sounds like it could work! If not I'll just find some decent wood and make her a new door, if that fails beg Rob after the wood run and see if he can make me another. :confused:

A dremel cutting wheel will probably make a mess, it will take out a lot of material, and tough to keep straight a hacksaw with a fine metal blade would be your next best option...but yes, your cuts have to be the length of the door...as far as soaking, just leave it dry, the cuts will give it enough flexibility to bend straight
 

Justice

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Rob will be making 300 or so doors shortly, if you do want him to make you a new one, right now would be a good time. Prying the mod out of the missus' hands to send it away would be the difficult bit.

wooden doors are all custom and different no two are alike so in order to make a new one the mod would have to go to Rob for a total refinish
 

Quigsworth

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Just found this online at a local craft store. Little pieces of wood for whittling. Not fancy but flat! :)
Might be worth getting and just make a new door. Not as pretty as Birdseye maple but could hold her over for awhile!
View attachment 404454

6mm plexyglass looks kinda cool too, especially if you can find the deep red tinted stuff, easy to work with and is already the right thickness...and will never warp
 

rudy4653

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wooden doors are all custom and different no two are alike so in order to make a new one the mod would have to go to Rob for a total refinish

That's what Rob told me. I would need to send him the mod and he would make a new door and sand woodvil body to assure it fits perfectly. Need to wait until after the woodvil run.
 

PapawBrett

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I am not aware of him saying there will be.

It was not something he did in all the runs. Only the last couple. They were always a custom order in the past.

I ask because I would like a plunger door to mate with my Curly Oak plunger door from last wood run.
And... I think there is a certain lady who is fond of her Woods, mentioning that plank doors were her favorite ;)
 
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