Melted button and ruined positive contact

[mikepointfive]

I used an ERA rebuildable dripper on my reo grand. while it worked, i loved it! now due to the low ohms i have ruined the positive contact and melted the bottom of my button. the positive contact has arced too many times and has worn down so there is no longer a point on it.. can i get these parts replaced? if so how much?

thanks in advance =)

 

[mikepointfive]

oh.. also, is there a way to do sub ohm vaping and not have this happen again?

 

[Blix]

Sounds like a Reo Grand repair kit should do the job:

http://www.reosmods.com/index.php?p...&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=9

 

[Blix]

oh.. also, is there a way to do sub ohm vaping and not have this happen again?

I have mine around 0.7-0.8 all the time with no problems,I use a Reomizer mostly.

 

[redeyedancer]

oh.. also, is there a way to do sub ohm vaping and not have this happen again?

Hello Mike this was not caused buy a sub ohm atomizer I am sure you had a short with the atomizer . You can send it to me to be rebuilt or buy a rebuild kit and do it yourself . You can find the kits on my site in the accessories section . You can find a how to video in the video section on my site .

If your using one of the early era atomizers there mod killers the center post is to long .

If you decide to send it to me . Please put
a note with your email address and a brief description of the problem .Also
empty any e juice in the mod .

Reos Mods LLC
120 Ida Jim Rd
Alfred Me 04002

 

[mikepointfive]

thanks for the quick replies guys. now I vape around .3 ohms. the ERA is not one of the earlier models. it is not a short either.. it looks like the repair kit has everything i need to fix this, now how can i prevent this from happening again while still enjoying my sweet spot around .3 ohms?

 

[redeyedancer]

I haven't tried a coil this low but I really dont see the heat transferring to the button enough to melt it just not happening . Its ether the atty or you have a broken gaskets in the mod .

 

[ltrainer]

.3 ohms? How many wraps to do a .3 ohm and what gauge is it?

 

[FeistyAlice]

Yikes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 0.3 ohms!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What were you using before the ERA to get that low? Seriously. I've never heard of anyone that vapes that low ohms. My extensive experience with REOs since 2010...... you can throw just about any ohms at an unregulated REO with no problems as long as there are no shorts in the atty or other issues, most like gasket issues. But really............ 0.3 ohms????!!!!!????????

We are curious, seriously. What juice do you use that doesn't burn at that EXTREMELY Low resistance? Again curiosity......... what did you vape prior to 0.3 ohms ERA; device and atty/RBA?

Amazed, Feisty Alice

 

[mikepointfive]

i get these kind of reactions alot.. but believe it or not its actually pretty common here in SoCal to strive to achieve as low ohms as possible in our drippers.. the build on my ERA is a single coil 2 wrap of 28g on 4 pieces of silica(2 loops). on my gennys i do 3 wraps of twisted 28 to find my sweet spot. on a dual coiled dripper it would be 3 wraps of 28g on 4 pieces of silica(2 loops) times two.. the way that this kinda hot vape becomes enjoyable is with increased air flow. with increased airflow and hotter coils we burn more juice faster and draw deeper thus producing much much more vapor.. nicotine can be rough with clouds this big so i mix zero nic and 6mg of various flavors. I am used to my attys getting hot after continued use and know to let them cool.. but with my reo i cant tell when the contact is getting hot.. i did a temporary fix to my button by sanding it flat and gluing on a circular piece of wood. this works but not for long as the wood also gets charred and slowly gets warn away. i am currently on my 2nd wood fix piece.. is there any possibility of a metal button coming out?

 

[redeyedancer]

A metal button would cause a dead short . A ceramic button would be great glass would work . Honestly if your charring wood with your positive contact there has to be a better solution . I still think there is a slight short in the mod . There is no way your charring wood without a short . This type of heat would melt the plastic off of wires in a wired mod and melt the switch .

 

[kazz63758]

I can't say if the low ohm is causing the charring, but do have another solution for the button...

I had a short once (my fault) that caused part of the bottom of my button to melt at a slant. I used JB Weld to build that button back to level. After it cured, it was rock hard and performed beautifully. I've been using it like that for almost a year now.

Good luck finding a solution that works for you!

 

[bullet]

might as well pitch in:

don't know if rob still remembers my old post about my reo grand switch melting also.
no problem shelling out for the repair kit (it's cheap already for it's price) but the shipping fees
from the US to PHL is enough for me to purchase another mech mod.

What I did was to cut off a circular shape out of the silicone rubber you get from those old school clearomizers,
supahglued it to the bottom of the switch (you need to level the switch's bottom/melted part and use it a
pad/extension so it's the one making direct contact to the positive pin/plate).

what made this a great fix (well for me) is that it acts somehow as a cushion to dampen the force I (unknowingly)
apply when I hit the switch.

I know Rob wouldn't agree, but I'll be using this fix until I found some local shops selling Rob's original rapair kit.
Hey Rob, you know any PHL resellers for you repair kit?

Thanks, man!

 

[redeyedancer]

might as well pitch in:

don't know if rob still remembers my old post about my reo grand switch melting also.
no problem shelling out for the repair kit (it's cheap already for it's price) but the shipping fees
from the US to PHL is enough for me to purchase another mech mod.

What I did was to cut off a circular shape out of the silicone rubber you get from those old school clearomizers,
supahglued it to the bottom of the switch (you need to level the switch's bottom/melted part and use it a
pad/extension so it's the one making direct contact to the positive pin/plate).

what made this a great fix (well for me) is that it acts somehow as a cushion to dampen the force I (unknowingly)
apply when I hit the switch.

I know Rob wouldn't agree, but I'll be using this fix until I found some local shops selling Rob's original rapair kit.
Hey Rob, you know any PHL resellers for you repair kit?

Thanks, man!

For a small order I can ship a package standard mail pm me if you want a kit