Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

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awsum140

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WIllie, I sometimes solder by feeding the solder from a coil held in my mouth. That's gotten hard to do now that I need glasses, LOL.

A dodge for a third hand can be an inexpensive, clamp style mounted, vice. They're small enough to hold a board safely. Then the cheap third hand can also be clamped with them to make that more stable. My big problem with the cheap third hands is they are too light and move around or fall over too easily. I'm thinking about filling the base with lead shot.
 

turbocad6

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I actually clamp my chips in a vice and use a pointy scribe to pin my wire in place right adjacent to the solder joint. I use the same hand I'm holding the pointy scribe to also feed the solder. works like a charm, with the pointy scribe pushing the pre tinned wire to the pad, once the solder starts to melt and flow the wire gets pushed right to the pad. the pointy scribe doesn't take away heat from the joint and can't slip of move if you pin it down correctly. it helps to get a really solid joint because there is no movement until the joint cools, even slight movement of the joint while molten but cooling can make for a cold solder joint that is much less mechanically sound

on these things in particular it is extremely important to have a really good solid solder joint. because of the amount of energy stored in these lipo's a wire popping off and shorting could be a real danger. we all know the board itself handles these lipo's safely and charges them/balances them safely but if the 12 ga from the battery falls off the board and shorts to the case none of that is going to help you
 

Squonk_me

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I need some advice, those cheap alligator helping hands are causing me frustration, I need something better without breaking the bank. I don't need top of the line, I'm looking for something cheap but better then these, suggestions?
image_22585.jpg

Head on over to,,, Slate Top Solder Station / Third Hand do some looking around over there and let your imagination run wild!!! There are kits that can be had on ebay or, order up the parts from online sources.

Hmmmmm ,,,, maybe this would make a good co-op? :thumb:
 

mikepetro

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Finished up my 1590A build last night, well there are a couple minor touch up's but it's fully assembled, up and running. I'm happy with the results, happy to have a smaller mod but I wouldn't want to build another one any time soon. Even with a small 800 mAh battery real estate is slim and it was tedious work that tried my patience's more then once, using 12 ga silicone wire for the outputs really added to the challenge but I wanted this one done right.

A couple things became very apparent, having a temp control soldier station, assortment of tips, quality flux and solder really makes the job easier and does such a nice job. Helping hands is a must to hold the board and the wire in place during the soldering and keeping anything from moving during the process including cool down of the solder, there is no way to feed solder and get a quality joint if you anything other then solder in one hand and wand in the other. I was very pleased with the soldering I was able to do even with the 12 ga wire, in a lot of ways soldering is a lot like welding, heat, create a puddle and feed wire/solder to the joint.

I need some advice, those cheap alligator helping hands are causing me frustration, I need something better without breaking the bank. I don't need top of the line, I'm looking for something cheap but better then these, suggestions?
image_22585.jpg


This is what I built for myself....

DSCN0696_zps3eceeea2.jpg



http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...oliid=I3HCV02R1S0F3B&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl
 

SlickWilly

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Hey Willie,

This is the vice that I use. It has rubber pads on the jaws to protect the board. It's not to expensive either.


BESSEY, 2-3/4 in. Swiveling Vacuum Base Vise, BV-VB at The Home Depot - Mobile

I have a small vice I use, I made brass jaws for it and I use a piece of leather for delicate stuff. Even with the vice, those helping hands are terrible, they aren't easy to make a fine adjustment, try to move them just a tad and they move a mile.

2-1/2" Table Swivel Vise
 

SlickWilly

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Head on over to,,, Slate Top Solder Station / Third Hand do some looking around over there and let your imagination run wild!!! There are kits that can be had on ebay or, order up the parts from online sources.

Hmmmmm ,,,, maybe this would make a good co-op? :thumb:


Yeah!!! a co-op for coolant lines and fittings? I would be in. :thumbs:

I think its KTM that has one made on a wooden cutting board. Lots of different ways to go.

Yeah baby! That's the ticket! Thanks guys! :thumbs: Look's like I got a new project! :)
 

Steamer861

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Finished up my 1590A build last night, well there are a couple minor touch up's but it's fully assembled, up and running. I'm happy with the results, happy to have a smaller mod but I wouldn't want to build another one any time soon. Even with a small 800 mAh battery real estate is slim and it was tedious work that tried my patience's more then once, using 12 ga silicone wire for the outputs really added to the challenge but I wanted this one done right.

A couple things became very apparent, having a temp control soldier station, assortment of tips, quality flux and solder really makes the job easier and does such a nice job. Helping hands is a must to hold the board and the wire in place during the soldering and keeping anything from moving during the process including cool down of the solder, there is no way to feed solder and get a quality joint if you anything other then solder in one hand and wand in the other. I was very pleased with the soldering I was able to do even with the 12 ga wire, in a lot of ways soldering is a lot like welding, heat, create a puddle and feed wire/solder to the joint.

I need some advice, those cheap alligator helping hands are causing me frustration, I need something better without breaking the bank. I don't need top of the line, I'm looking for something cheap but better then these, suggestions?
image_22585.jpg

Pics or it didn't happin :)
 

awsum140

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The person-person showed up with my envelope full of drill bits and some extra taps. I spent the afternoon completing the battery door on the bottom cap. What a PITA filing everything down so it cleared to allow hinging. The battery door is two 1/8" pieces of aluminum stock with a brass cap that has a large dimple for the battery. The hinge is a 0-80 screw and it took a 3/4" long one to go through the two cleats and the door tab. Now I can set the overall height of the mod. I still need to machine the cap, itself, down to size. I left it at 1-1/2" wide while working on it for the added strength while machining the door hole.
 
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awsum140

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That all depends on what your definition of "mess" is! That looks too neat to me. Mine has a layer of metal shavings about a sixteenth thick all around the drill press and the rest is covered with tools, wire and other stuff. Heck, I have to clear a space to work all the time.
 

Phone Guy

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That is just strange. If you send me the bad print I will return a correct one. The file on that one has not changed since Mike and I test fit the board a few months ago. PM me for address. I want the bad one to see how the printing went wrong. If all else fits, then it is not possible for the one post to be off. If all else is off, then it was scaled wrong in the gcode slicer.

I will send you the bezels, but there is no need for you to replace them. I actually bought 3 of them, none line up with the top mounting posts. but that was my loss, not yours...your offer is extremely generous and sincerely appreciated. :thumb: very classy BRD!

I know next to nothing about 3D printing, but the printer guy obviously messed up something somewhere... the screen alignment ridge is fine, the usb port fits and the bottom post lines up but the 2 top ones are higher and I can almost see thru the holes on the dna200 top 2 holes.... not sure how that happened.
 

SlickWilly

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