Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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From the Evolv forum (link), somethings you should know about working with DNA200 and any board, I'm sure most of you already know but worth highlighting.
Right now the two biggest issues we are seeing with the VAST majority of returns is one, soldering too cool, for too long and heating the entire board, or soldering too long due to not pre-tinning wires and pre-flowing solder onto pads. I like to solder very hot, very fast in order to avoid heating any surrounding areas.
Two, and this is the big one so far, is people using all manner of glues, epoxies, etc. Anything solvent based is a BIG no no especially.
Anything other than an electronics grade epoxy or electronic grade RTV/Silicone can and will compromise your board and its components.
Electronics grade RTV/Silicone is likely everyone's best bet as electronics grade glue and epoxy is very expensive.
Right now the two biggest issues we are seeing with the VAST majority of returns is one, soldering too cool, for too long and heating the entire board, or soldering too long due to not pre-tinning wires and pre-flowing solder onto pads. I like to solder very hot, very fast in order to avoid heating any surrounding areas.
Two, and this is the big one so far, is people using all manner of glues, epoxies, etc. Anything solvent based is a BIG no no especially.
Anything other than an electronics grade epoxy or electronic grade RTV/Silicone can and will compromise your board and its components.
Electronics grade RTV/Silicone is likely everyone's best bet as electronics grade glue and epoxy is very expensive.
Cheers, but it is a direct quote from Nick of Evolv and I didn't realise about the problems with silicone and epoxy myself before.
I used one of those diamond cutting disks with my dremel that Mike recommended to cut down the only brass nuts I could get over here for the Evolv 510s, I know they need finishing off. It was a 40 mm disk and went through the nut in no time, I am hoping to be able to solder the ground to them.
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Good solution.I used one of those diamond cutting disks with my dremel that Mike recommended to cut down the only brass nuts I could get over here for the Evolv 510s, I know they need finishing off. It was a 40 mm disk and went through the nut in no time, I am hoping to be able to solder the ground to them.
The brass will work. I have used a brass solder paste like they use for sweating pipe and it worked well. Just have to clean everything real good first. I would suggest drilling 1-2mm hole in the nut as a wire cup and solder right away before the brass has a chance to oxidize..
I used one of those diamond cutting disks with my dremel that Mike recommended to cut down the only brass nuts I could get over here for the Evolv 510s, I know thy need finishing off. t was a 40 mm disk and went through the nut in no time, I am hoping to be able to solder the ground to them.
Looks good, funny you posted this, I was just looking at the 510's and thinking how to fix them to a Hammond box. There isn't enough room for a large nut, my first thought was to find machine screws that would fit flush in the four holes of the 510 body, drill and tap the top of the mod for the screws and use the them to hold it. Second thought and one I think I'll go with is to cut a piece from some flat aluminum stock, drill and tap it for the 510 to screw into. It will fit inside the box and have one flat rest on the floor of the mod to keep it from spinning, drop the 510 through the hole in the top of the box, slide the ground loop on, then just screw the 510 into the stock and tighten with a spanner wrench, kind of like a big flat nut. I'll probably need some pics to get the idea across. I'll be doing some mod work tomorrow, if I have enough time and I feel up to a full day I'll make one and post some pics.
I got my last big outdoors job done today, the back porch steps are built and in place. My back and neck can't take much more, hurting like hell tonight but it's a good feeling to know I got all those jobs done and I'm now ready for winter. Well still have to finish the snow blower but I've got time before it gets that bad and it's an inside the shop job, no more worrying about the cold, rain or early snow squalls.
I'd like to say "Bring it mother nature" but dare not temp her or fate, see my sig line. 
I understand the plate idea @SlickWilly and think it is a better idea than the nut I was tempted (great minds...), but even though I have a tap I don't have a tap guide, drill press or lathe to keep it straight. I did just get a Big-Gator metric drill guide today, I have just been using a centre punch and cordless drill up to now and looking forward to using that. IIRC it was you that posted the tapping videos that prompted me to get the guide. From what I have read cheap drill presses are a wast of time and I would be better off getting a mill one day.
You would be surprised just eye balling the tap to make sure it's straight, look at the side of the tap from one angle then from 90°, go slow, 1/4 turn or so and check again. At the start of tapping you can get away with straightening the tap a tad, it's forgiving a little at the start. For this it wouldn't have to be perfectly straight anyways so give it a try! Also I saw a neat trick recently in a youtube video on tapping tips and how to tap straight by hand and eye, I haven't tried it yet but there is no reason it wouldn't work. They make small round bullseye bubble levels with a magnet that you put on the end of the tap handle, just keep the bubble centered and it's straight! http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Tap-Handle-Bulls-Eye-Level-Guide-for-Tapping-or-Reaming-/251977135561 I have a old dead cordless drill that has a bubble level, I'm going to take it out and glue a magnet on it.
Very true @SlickWilly I could sort something out, but I think it is the drilling angle I fall down on. You should be able to get those round bubble levels for pennies (10 for $2 from China on eBay) and with Hamond boxes you wound need one on the face to.
VB, I didn't check out the drill guide before I posted, I like that a lot, that would be very handy around the house and in the shop, I've got to get one of those! Although there isn't a hole big enough for the 1/2 tap, you could use it for smaller taps that would fit in the holes for other jobs. Even if it's a little wobbly it still should work just fine for most tinkering, of course it's all depending on how precise the job calls for.
BTW, have you seen the idea's we've come up with for the 200's in the Hammond's now being sold here and there? Like the stand off's with screws through the board from the back side into the stand off's and through the face of the mod, stick on templates. Even the shelf pins you came up with for making buttons are now being sold with a kit! --> https://nonameboxmods.com/DNA-200-Part-Kit
Sharing idea's and bouncing them off each other sure makes for some good results for all of us!
BTW, have you seen the idea's we've come up with for the 200's in the Hammond's now being sold here and there? Like the stand off's with screws through the board from the back side into the stand off's and through the face of the mod, stick on templates. Even the shelf pins you came up with for making buttons are now being sold with a kit! --> https://nonameboxmods.com/DNA-200-Part-Kit
Sharing idea's and bouncing them off each other sure makes for some good results for all of us!
You'd be surprised what can be done with a drill press . . .plus a quality cross slide vise and a couple of dial indicators. It's tough to justify the price of a mill for working on what amounts to a few tiny parts. The stuff we're working on is more like watchmaking than machining. I've seen watchmakers turn hardened steel pins in a mechanism that looks and works like a tiny wood lathe. You'd think that's impossible and the tool would just burn or chatter but I've seen it done so it can be done.
High tool speed coupled with low feed rates and the most rigid setup that can be mustered will produce surprisingly good finish quality on the drill press "mill." The dial indicators give me plenty of accuracy. It takes patience and nobody will ever make a living trying to do it that way but if it's a choice between that and a real mill "someday," give it a try. "Someday" often never comes
They do some other sized guides including tap guides, a set of 6.VB, I didn't check out the drill guide before I posted, I like that a lot, that would be very handy around the house and in the shop, I've got to get one of those! Although there isn't a hole big enough for the 1/2 tap, you could use it for smaller taps that would fit in the holes for other jobs. Even if it's a little wobbly it still should work just fine for most tinkering, of course it's all depending on how precise the job calls for.
BTW, have you seen the idea's we've come up with for the 200's in the Hammond's now being sold here and there? Like the stand off's with screws through the board from the back side into the stand off's and through the face of the mod, stick on templates. Even the shelf pins you came up with for making buttons are now being sold with a kit! --> https://nonameboxmods.com/DNA-200-Part-Kit
Sharing idea's and bouncing them off each other sure makes for some good results for all of us!
I think that those ideas like the stand offs and shelf pins are generic enough that lots of people will come up with them. I had seen ModMaker.co.uk selling the shelf pins before I used the old ones I had in the shed, but I had thought of doing the same thing with a shouldered bolt before that. And if they got the ideas from this thread that's great too IMO, there will be more people enjoying the fruits of their labour.
I'll submit that screws thru the top of the evolv 510 work fine for a ground, it was simple and painless, and makes the 510 look pretty clean on the top side, seeing screw heads secured in there vs empty holes. I did this on a 3d printed reference mod where there was absolutely no room for a nut at all...YMMV. just my 2 cents
It's my one year anniversary of temp limiting vaping today, deffo not a gimmick it's like me:
Nope, no gimmick.......It's my one year anniversary of temp limiting vaping today, deffo not a gimmick it's like me:
Only people who make their own mods remember the anniversaries, like the kids birthdays.
I've been vaping TC for a while, and it took an adjustment period for me, I liked the hotter kanthal vapor and honestly still might? but I am so invested in temp control at this point, I have to stick with it
I've been vaping TC for a while, and it took an adjustment period for me, I liked the hotter kanthal vapor and honestly still might? but I am so invested in temp control at this point, I have to stick with it
I had the same feeling when I switched to TC. Something subtle was missing but it has to be missing the flavor of overheated juice decomposition byproducts. Ugh, typical -- everything I like is bad for me lol.
One thing to get the hot vape back -- the DNA 200 has enough power to get it plenty hot. If you can get juice flow and wicking to supply enough juice to the coil, the resulting vape stream (latent heat of superheated steam yadda yadda) develops enough thermal mass to sense and it is plenty hot. I'm still trying different atomizers to find the perfect combination of enormous juice channels coupled with ease of use features. Another thing that seems to heat things up is having a good bit of the coil surface area heating air -- such as claptons. To me at least, the vape is smokin hot in a tank.
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