Oh you guys..... now I'll have to go out to the shop tonight and get some more work done on mine. 
Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
- Thread starter Proetus
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Did you play with the device Monitor yet? Now THAT is amazing stuff. Totally unnecessary but so damn cool to see all that info.
The 1300mah battery is giving me about 1.5 days of heavy vaping. I need more DNA200's in my life!
*Edit*
I had 12g, 16g, 18g, 20g and 24g silicone wires. I think the 14g from HobbyKing is holding up my order. I used 16g and it fit perfectly in the hole of the VT 510.
The 1300mah battery is giving me about 1.5 days of heavy vaping. I need more DNA200's in my life!
*Edit*
I had 12g, 16g, 18g, 20g and 24g silicone wires. I think the 14g from HobbyKing is holding up my order. I used 16g and it fit perfectly in the hole of the VT 510.
There are loads of real reasons to use DM like seeing if one of your cells is weaker than the others, how long it take before pre heat finishes, how quick the board cools, making nice graphs to amaze your friends and recording the output so you can brush up your excel graphing skills.
Did you play with the Device Monitor yet? Now THAT is amazing stuff. Totally unnecessary but so damn cool to see all that info.
The 1300mah battery is giving me about 1.5 days of heavy vaping. I need more DNA200's in my life!
*Edit*
I had 12g, 16g, 18g, 20g and 24g silicone wires. I think the 14g from HobbyKing is holding up my order. I used 16g and it fit perfectly in the hole of the VT 510.
I played a bit...but I need a better graphics driver for the virtualbox setup...
I really need a 510 with a stiffer spring...wasn't there discussion of one recently?
I use the VT ones, but they are just as weak as the FD ones. compared to the reference design they really introduce resistance variations that toy with a TC mod.
I increased the spring pressure on the VT's I bought by doing two things, one is stretching the spring and the other is by sanding down and shortening the bottom half of the insulator which puts more pressure on the spring. I laid a piece of 320 sand paper on the bench, used my finger to move the insulator back and forth over the sand paper. There is a shoulder between the two threaded sides, I shorten the bottom side to the point that the nut that screws on and holds the spring and 510 pin, now bottoms out and touches that dividing shoulder. Other then replacing the spring with a stronger one, I don't know what else can be done, I really don't think it needs any more pressure then what I did and if you try to get too much tension the threads on the insulator may not hold. I ordered a couple extra insulators (.50) when I ordered the 510's from VT. Replacement Insulator for 510 - High Temp
I have a question for the experts... If I got a metal box, with the button holes drilled, and screen opening cut, how would you suggest mounting the DNA200 board to the box at that point? My plan is to get a buddy of mine to drill and cut the hammond box for me, he has the talent that I do not... Buttons can be had from Shapeways, but I'm lost on how to physically attach the board short of hot glue. Since the box is metal, there would be no way to "screw" the board down.
yeah that's the problem with the 510's I've gotten so far, the threading of the plastic isn't strong at all. I remake mine in peek, it's much stronger and holds a good thread and you can really use high spring pressures, the ones they give, not so much. also I always get the longer ones for more thread engagement too, with the longer 510 and a peek insulator it's so much stronger that stripping isn't an issue, I tighten mine up good with a pair of pliers and it's very strong
here are 2 I did. the one is a bit longer and uses a really beefy spring, the other uses just a silicone hose as spring resistance and it also works very well for me and I can make it a little shorter
this shot you can see how much the spring compresses, when the atty is removed the gap is closes.
this one engages the atty from right after the first turn screwing it on and can compress enough to let anything sit flush, but, it takes up a lot of space. that's where the real compromise is with all of these, trying to keep them really compact. I like silicone tubing as the spring when I need to minimize space required as much as possible and there again, everything makes great contact and everything can go fully flush too. the silicone doesn't have as much stroke or as much pressure as a good heavy spring but it's def better than those wimpy springs that come with these I think... the stock threading of the included plastic bushings will blow right out if you try to compress silicone tubing as a spring though.
Holes drilled through the case in line with the mounting points, fine thread screws that fit the holes in the DNA, then spacers, the board and nuts. You can get spacers from just sawing tubing or similar or have them printed via a 3d printer or 3d printing service. The spacer length would determine the back end depth of the buttons. If you look at the front of the Opus, this is similar.
me personally, I would rather use some epoxy than seeing 3 screw heads outside of the case. to me there is only one reason to remove the chip in a well built mod, and that's to replace it. I wouldn't use hotglue, except maybe just to tack it in place for a few dabs of epoxy
I posted one on pg 78 and there are a few more details a few posts after that.
I was going to solder brass nuts to some PCB and cut to clear screen, USB etc, screw the board to that and glue the PCB to the inside of the case, but couldn't source the brass screws locally and prefer the way I did it now.
what you did looks good, especially if you go with a brush finish or something. screws from the front might not look so bad if you use nice flat allen head countersunk screws or something like that I guess. don't mind me, I have a pet peeve about exposed hardware 
vapingbads solution def looks like a good way to go
vapingbads solution def looks like a good way to go
Thanks, you could do a subchassis plate to screw the board to and glue that. I have normally sugrued boards in it the place, but wanted to be able to unscrew so I can do a better finish on the case, yep probably brushed.what you did looks good, especially if you go with a brush finish or something. screws from the front might not look so bad if you use nice flat allen head countersunk screws or something like that I guess. don't mind me, I have a pet peeve about exposed hardware
I'm no machinist either, so my plan is a metal or lexan plate that fits inside the box, held in place with guide rails glued into the box with JB Weld. That will separate the board from the battery, allow easy mounting of the board and makes the board removable if something goes wrong.
I could print you a bezel with the face portioned shaved to 1mm that you then epoxy to the inside of your box....you would get what ever filament I have (green at the moment), but imagine this shaved down on the face:
Sled mount for DNA200 tested by BlueRidgeDog - Thingiverse
(to clarify it would be on the inside so color is moot...but a bit may show around the edges. If you wait I will be getting some black)
Alternatively I could upload such a model for you on shapeways and you would get it sooner...and in a color that suited you.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
