I feel the same way, but someone asked me to revise one of my designs for a dual 18650 setup. I'm just about ready with it, but I personally don't see the point of going the 18650 route on a DNA200.
Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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I feel the same way, but someone asked me to revise one of my designs for a dual 18650 setup. I'm just about ready with it, but I personally don't see the point of going the 18650 route on a DNA200.
I took some other pics of things I thought might give ideas and helps others, things I learned through my build. A lot of what I did were idea's shared from others who posted prior to my build, great bunch of folks here who are willing to share and help, thank you! Now it's my turn to pay it forward. To save space I'm posting thumbnails, click on them to view full size.
First I was going to use KTM's idea of cutting pieces from a CD holder to make a holder for the board, then I was going to glue the holder to the box with JB Weld, here's some pics of what I had started. I made brackets to hold each side of the board, super glued the small pieces, first scuffing the plastic so the glue would have a good grip. The board fit snugly. Once both sides where done I was planning on joining the two sides by cutting and gluing pieces across the back of the board.
Instead of the holder I decided to go with Vaping Bad's idea of stand off posts, I made mine out of square aluminum stock with three short screws going through the back of the board into the posts then mount the board and post to the box with three screws through the face of the box.
(You can see one of the stand offs on the board in the center pic above)
To hold the screen to the mod, I used 3M double sided tape that is used to hold screens on ipod's and ipod touch, this works very well, it's a little gummy and you can play with it to position, then lightly clamp and it sets up to a full bond over night. If you ever tried to remove a broken screen from an ipod you know how strong this stuff is! Watch video on youtube on replacing touch screens. You can get it on amazon cheap, a few bucks shipped.
I also used Vaping Bad's idea to make the button from shelf pins, I cut them to length, leaving them a little long, chucked them in my drill press and used the press like a lath to spin them, using files and sandpaper to shape them. The problem I ran into was how to file them shorter once I had them like the three on the left
After some thought I decided to drill holes in this piece of aluminum angle. I drilled holes the same size as the button, then slip the buttons in, set the angle in my vise, slightly tighten, tap the angle with a hammer to drive it down and clamp the buttons, I was then able to file and work the buttons easily.
Last, here's how I made the tension tighter on my VT 510's. I sanded down the insulator by laying a piece of 320 sandpaper on the bench, then with the insulator screwed into the 510 I carefully ran it over the sandpaper until the cap that screw on and holds the spring is up against the divider of the insulator.
I also stretch the spring just a tad
On other thing I do to make the 510 center pin move smoothly up and down is carefully sand the edges of the pin rounding them just ever so much to break that sharp edge (Best I could do for a close up, pin on right was sanded). This ensures the pin won't bind and sit cocked when you screw an atty on, it will sit flush giving full contact. Once again those number drills come in handy, I found one that fit tight in the bottom solder hole, then I could spin the bit and pin with my fingers to sand the edges.
I'll also add I drilled the hole larger in the cap so my 18ga wire would slide through freely when the pin moves up and down. I also used a lager bit, spinning it by hand to break the edge of the hole on each side of the cap.
First I was going to use KTM's idea of cutting pieces from a CD holder to make a holder for the board, then I was going to glue the holder to the box with JB Weld, here's some pics of what I had started. I made brackets to hold each side of the board, super glued the small pieces, first scuffing the plastic so the glue would have a good grip. The board fit snugly. Once both sides where done I was planning on joining the two sides by cutting and gluing pieces across the back of the board.
Instead of the holder I decided to go with Vaping Bad's idea of stand off posts, I made mine out of square aluminum stock with three short screws going through the back of the board into the posts then mount the board and post to the box with three screws through the face of the box.
(You can see one of the stand offs on the board in the center pic above)
To hold the screen to the mod, I used 3M double sided tape that is used to hold screens on ipod's and ipod touch, this works very well, it's a little gummy and you can play with it to position, then lightly clamp and it sets up to a full bond over night. If you ever tried to remove a broken screen from an ipod you know how strong this stuff is! Watch video on youtube on replacing touch screens. You can get it on amazon cheap, a few bucks shipped.
I also used Vaping Bad's idea to make the button from shelf pins, I cut them to length, leaving them a little long, chucked them in my drill press and used the press like a lath to spin them, using files and sandpaper to shape them. The problem I ran into was how to file them shorter once I had them like the three on the left
After some thought I decided to drill holes in this piece of aluminum angle. I drilled holes the same size as the button, then slip the buttons in, set the angle in my vise, slightly tighten, tap the angle with a hammer to drive it down and clamp the buttons, I was then able to file and work the buttons easily.
Last, here's how I made the tension tighter on my VT 510's. I sanded down the insulator by laying a piece of 320 sandpaper on the bench, then with the insulator screwed into the 510 I carefully ran it over the sandpaper until the cap that screw on and holds the spring is up against the divider of the insulator.
I also stretch the spring just a tad
On other thing I do to make the 510 center pin move smoothly up and down is carefully sand the edges of the pin rounding them just ever so much to break that sharp edge (Best I could do for a close up, pin on right was sanded). This ensures the pin won't bind and sit cocked when you screw an atty on, it will sit flush giving full contact. Once again those number drills come in handy, I found one that fit tight in the bottom solder hole, then I could spin the bit and pin with my fingers to sand the edges.
I'll also add I drilled the hole larger in the cap so my 18ga wire would slide through freely when the pin moves up and down. I also used a lager bit, spinning it by hand to break the edge of the hole on each side of the cap.
With an Istick 40W TC at 26.99 currently this may be my last device for a while. I think I will wait for the DNA1000 with integrated coaxial 510 center pin for thermocouple connections with humidity sensor and juice injectors in compatible rta's.. I'm thinking a ceramic disk with imbedded thermoprobe for the wick/coil . Forget all the fun settings for temps and curves. Just a dial for more vapor or less vapor. Perhaps a flavor/temp adjustment but that's it. This ain't rocket science folks.
Do you have link for those? I've been using a pair of iStick 20W for a year now and I really like them, especially while outside or on the go because they are so small and easy to carry. For that price I might try one!
Nice work...AND you are off the road for a bit! (or in the cleanest truck stop I have ever seen).
Nice summary, Willie. I used my drill press for a lathe, albeit an vertical lathe, making my positive battery contact out of a 1/4-20 brass screw. Used files to grind the head down flat and take off all the threads for a smooth shaft. I've also used it as a mill using end mill bits and a cross slide vice. It does work for that if you go slow and work with soft metals like aluminum.
I've been trying to spend an hour a day, or more, working on my low tank DNA40 and am pretty well along. I've got to layout the bottom cap with the battery door so I can make the cut outs and door parts. I've got the pieces pre-cut for it already. Once it's all ready to assemble I'll post a photo of all the parts, 'cause parts is parts. While the JB weld is setting up it'll give me time to start on the Hammond DNA200.
I've been trying to spend an hour a day, or more, working on my low tank DNA40 and am pretty well along. I've got to layout the bottom cap with the battery door so I can make the cut outs and door parts. I've got the pieces pre-cut for it already. Once it's all ready to assemble I'll post a photo of all the parts, 'cause parts is parts. While the JB weld is setting up it'll give me time to start on the Hammond DNA200.
Great post @SlickWilly 
With the shelf pins I cut them and then ground by having the pin in a cordless drill and pressing that into a fibre disc on a dremel, it makes a nice geometric patten, but I polished it with Autosol after because sometimes I don know when to stop.
With the shelf pins I cut them and then ground by having the pin in a cordless drill and pressing that into a fibre disc on a dremel, it makes a nice geometric patten, but I polished it with Autosol after because sometimes I don know when to stop
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I turned aluminum rod in my drill press/lathe for the buttons. 1/4" for the "up/down" and 1/2" for the "fire". I still need to set the length, both inside an outside, though. The inside length will be first, then the outside. The inside length may change if I shorten the spacers on the board sled for a little extra wire clearance. That's up in the air at the moment.
I just did the bottom cap and door layout and it all fits, thankfully. Tomorrow will be machine time.
I just did the bottom cap and door layout and it all fits, thankfully. Tomorrow will be machine time.
For a $1 more they're available here. They also have the kit which comes w/ a charger.
Eleaf iStick 40W Temp Control
So @mikepetro what's up you posted about moving house a few days ago, but I have not got the party invitation yet, can't wait to meet the waitresses.
morning, y'all!
Oh, good morning (usually the photos distract me and I don't notice the text)
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