Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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I just don't think there is enough room even, with a 90 degree JST wouldn't yon need to remove the board to change the battery? Also the length of the XT30 would mean you need the shorted possible battery leads, like 5 mm. Here is a pic of a Silo900 with the NanoTech 950, a XT30 & JST and the battery has to be forced in leaving no room for the positive wire from the 510, Evolv 510 fitted in that case.
This gets a little creative, but I was able to use an EC2 connector on a standard Evolv issued Reference mod.
- Solder the JST to the board, then remove the white JST shell from the board (highlighted in red). It takes a little work with a jewelers screwdriver, but you can pry the white shell off over the pins.
- Then bend the 4 JST pins (at the base, where they just come out of the board) slightly towards towards the screen.
- Now you can plug in the battery JST (make sure to observe polarity) at enough of an angle (towards the screen) that the EC2 will just barely fit between the JST and the bottom of the mod.
Here is a closeup, the pins dont require much of a bend at all. With the white shell gone you gain a mm or two, so really you only need about 1mm more to be accomplished by the bending the JST pins.
BTW, the mod has functioned without flaw ever since I built it.
BTW, the mod has functioned without flaw ever since I built it.
The EC2 is definitely shorter (when you take into account that the pins stick out the backside on a XT30 but not on the EC2), not sure about the other dimensions, but they are not any larger thats for sure.
Notice how you dont even need heatshrink on the EC2:
One thing to consider is that the EC2 is only rated at 20A, where Evolv specs a 23A input. I know I am not going over 120w, so in my case I feel no concern, I am not going to ever hit 20A let alone 23A.
ETA: I believe the EC2s would be safe up to 175w. Dont use them if you are pushing every last watt you can out of the mod.
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My brass DNA200 low tank is officially under way. I cut the piece for the main body and the top cap today, then bent the body into shape. I wanted to see if I could bend it and get the shape right, IE following a tight curve first. If that didn't happen the rest was a moot point. It was a bit of bear, not having a press and working with a "custom" form and a piece of 1" stainless for a mandrel, clamps and a 3lb maul, but it did work out. I've still got to cut, and bend, the back cover for the atty well and will do that tomorrow along with cutting the rest of the major pieces, bottom cap, side cover and one internal divider. I'll take some photos tomorrow so you can all see my "super high tech" bending equipment.
If I did have motivation and energy it would already be a done deal, along with its' DNA40 little brothers in brass.
I will say it's going to be a "beefy" mod. Brass is way more dense than aluminum! I'm fooling with the idea of laminating a second layer on the top so it can be effectively rounded or chamfered and maybe even some extra around the top at the atty ring to provide a little "relief" from the smooth sides.
I will say it's going to be a "beefy" mod. Brass is way more dense than aluminum! I'm fooling with the idea of laminating a second layer on the top so it can be effectively rounded or chamfered and maybe even some extra around the top at the atty ring to provide a little "relief" from the smooth sides.
Same thickness, notice the overall length of the XT30 when you consider the pins. Plus the lack of heatshrink on the EC2 makes it more pliable.
The pins on the EC2 come separate, you solder them on then insert the pins into the blue connector, so the pin/wire junction is completely shrouded if you did a neat solder job.
Does anyone know where I could find a faceplate/bezel for the DNA 200, preferably with buttons? I'm thinking of modifying one of my mods to accept the DNA board but can't think of a good way to adapt the current button location.
Mamu has you covered...
Mod Parts & Cases by mamu - Shapeways Shops
There are other options as from the same source.
dna200 - Shapeways 3D Printing Search Results
Thank you! I ordered what I needed & appreciated the instructions on how to install. That was a nice added touch.
EMR+ SN 30 & 31 finished
30 has the new style screen 31 old. Just need to highlight the engraving again. For now I'm VAPING
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30 has the new style screen 31 old. Just need to highlight the engraving again. For now I'm VAPING
Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk
I promised some photos a week ago, but other things got in the way. I got to work on the brass low tank mod today.
Some high tech metal cutting in my state of the art machine shop -
Some even higher tech metal cutting -
High tech bending equipment for the back half of the atomizer cut out, the start of the bend -
Finishing that bend with an additional piece of high tech equipment -
No humans or animals were injured during this process.
Some high tech metal cutting in my state of the art machine shop -
Some even higher tech metal cutting -
High tech bending equipment for the back half of the atomizer cut out, the start of the bend -
Finishing that bend with an additional piece of high tech equipment -
No humans or animals were injured during this process.
EMR+ 031 died this morning! Won't power up won't connect to escribe. Tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery no help. Fuse does not appear to be blown. It worked just fine went out to move a couple airplanes came back in and it was dead. Contacting Evolv for warranty. Thank goodness I built #030 the other day.
Just checked the fuse it has 2.9 ohms of resistance. At least it is not open?
I had the same thing happen with ERM+ 038, Iceman. I swapped the board out with a spare, sent the bad one back to Evolv and got the replacement back in under a week. It went dead on my wife, at 8.5 watts in power mode. Sometimes these things happen, I guess, but Evolv stands behind their product.
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