MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

[Technonut]

As for the switch issue... In my case, it's lack of issues. I only finger-tightened the the base nut once since I've had it, sanded the end of the firing pin, and put a dab of Noalox on the end. It's firing fine. Granted, there is some button play, but since it fires OK, It doesn't bother me enough to shim.

EDIT: I think the Pre-2012 GGTS compatibility with the knurled connector may be due to the earlier GGTS versions being made from aluminum and nickel-plated brass instead of the current SS...

 

[Insanelysick]

Yup that's the one. As I understand it Imeo stopped using an o-ring there as it isn't needed but on the mkb I do get a bit of leakage as you can see from my pic, even using an o-ring. Maybe the correct size will o-ring will help. Unfortunately I don't have a set of calipers to measure it with.

I think #5 is what you're talking about, and no, mine didn't come with one. I only had one tiny o-ring inside the insulator around the center pin, but no o-ring for the plastic insulator itself.

I might be able to come up with a size later tonight when I get home, or if you have some calipers you can measure. I'm sure it's probably 1mm wall thickness.

 

[upsetter21]

This may sound crazy but... having no caliper... can you find a mechanical pencil? If so, many are 0.5mm pencil led - should tell you on the pencil. If you're trying to get a rough idea of the O-ring thickness, you can bundle a few pencil leds until they fit nicely into whatever groove you want your O-ring seated in - count how many leds makes the same thickness as the O-ring and divide by 2 (since you just measured with 1/2mm's). It's just a rough, eye-ball, measurement but might get you close enough. If you can find a 0.3mm pencil or the leds at the store you can get an even more accurate measurement - just consider 3 leds equals 1mm.

To get diameter, hopefully you can measure your insulator with an Imperial ruler, then convert to metric.

This leaking is one of the reasons I completely replaced the center pin & insulator assembly on my MKB. My current rig has an O-ring for the brass post. Since I used hardwood as the insulator, I was able to swell it to a seal with linseed oil; more crazy-talk I know.

 

[Vince159]

I explored the thread, and I believe I understand the concept of shimming the switch. I notice someone said they used copper, and I have copper tape; good idea....bad idea? I thought maybe the sticky substance may interfer somehow? I've got to do something, the heat is relentless, and this mod is being enjoyed out there so much; I'm a mech noob (as if it didn't show). If the copper tape won't work I'll make the trip to Ace HW today. Any feedback?

 

[dwcraig1]

I explored the thread, and I believe I understand the concept of shimming the switch. I notice someone said they used copper, and I have copper tape; good idea....bad idea? I thought maybe the sticky substance may interfer somehow? I've got to do something, the heat is relentless, and this mod is being enjoyed out there so much; I'm a mech noob (as if it didn't show). If the copper tape won't work I'll make the trip to Ace HW today. Any feedback?

First off, what you describe really sounds like a short to me, make double sure it's not.
The sticky stuff is going to probably make the switch stick "on" as well as cause more of a bad connection than what you have if that's the problem.
Mine is the one with the copper, it also had sticky stuff on it. I burnt the adhesive off with a mini torch and used fine Emory cloth to shine it back up. I also "ironed" it by rolling a 7/8" deep well socket on a flat surface over it to get it flat again as it warped a little from the heat.
Once you get your switch finished work it at least 100 times before putting the battery in.

 

[Vince159]

First off, what you describe really sounds like a short to me, make double sure it's not.
The sticky stuff is going to probably make the switch stick "on" as well as cause more of a bad connection than what you have if that's the problem.
Mine is the one with the copper, it also had sticky stuff on it. I burnt the adhesive off with a mini torch and used fine Emory cloth to shine it back up.
Once you get your switch finished work it at least 100 times before putting the battery in.

Yes, I thought there was a short, I put RBA's on it that had been working perfectly on my chi chi, and still the button heated up, so I like I ruled that out. The other thing is that the heat is not there every time the button is push, but ussually, and I get the sense that there's inconsistency with the current, so with these 2 things happening I thought the shim may be the fix.

 

[upsetter21]

Vince159: you have a PM

On the MKB-TS (or GGTS) native atomizers topic... found another Genesis that can Hybridize the MKB:
Foggatti Type 22 Golden Greek Base

Trouble is the Foggatti is another Unicorn...

 

[dwcraig1]

Yes, I thought there was a short, I put RBA's on it that had been working perfectly on my chi chi, and still the button heated up, so I like I ruled that out. The other thing is that the heat is not there every time the button is push, but ussually, and I get the sense that there's inconsistency with the current, so with these 2 things happening I thought the shim may be the fix.

Also look to the 510 socket and any adapters that your using for a possible short, the switch will be way better after the shim so you aren't wasting anything.

 

[chadster214]

Does anyone know the size of the o-ring in the control ring of the collector tank? ripped mine while disassembling it for polishing.

TIA

 

[dwcraig1]

Does anyone know the size of the o-ring in the control ring of the collector tank? ripped mine while disassembling it for polishing.

TIA

GGTS
2 x 1 (2) Inside connector
16 x 1.5 Between connector and CT
21 x 1.5 Inside CR
14 x 1 Outside of the lids
9 x 1.5 Inside 901-510 lid
11 x 1.5 Inside 801 lid

From: http://ggwiki.et.com.mx/index.php/O-Rings
Of coarse these are for the GG but I think the one for the air control ring will be the same

 

[Insanelysick]

Yeah I put a 9x1.5ml one on there as mine was missing too.thats the price we pay for buying a Chinese clone, I guess. I'd buy a real ggts in a heartbeat if I could, even planned to buy one this time round but misses them in Europe but a few minutes.temlted to get another MKB-TS as they are the closet thin and work pretty damn well!

GGTS
2 x 1 (2) Inside connector
16 x 1.5 Between connector and CT
21 x 1.5 Inside CR
14 x 1 Outside of the lids
9 x 1.5 Inside 901-510 lid
11 x 1.5 Inside 801 lid

From: http://ggwiki.et.com.mx/index.php/O-Rings
Of coarse these are for the GG but I think the one for the air control ring will be the same

 

[upsetter21]

I'm with you InsanelySick... I've had several near misses attempting to acquire a GG. Frankly it's been painful... then when you have it you get to see all the spares listed, but never in stock. I'm good at getting my hands on exotic stuff too. Just for some reason the GG always falls through.

I almost hate to say it, but the MKB is actually filling the void just fine now... needed some tuning, but now It's rockin' Mine never misfires, and hits like a champ... and I'm using GG accessories with it. So at the end of the day I still want a GG for the status, but I really don't NEED it - like I felt before the MKB made its way into my life.

 

[Insanelysick]

Spot on Upsetter! I'm sick of trying to get on a list to preorder or sit there F5ing to get one in my basket before they sell out. As you say even getting spares is a nightmare. It's easier and cheaper to get another MKB for spare parts and the quality isn't too bad.
There will always be supply and demand and if the supply isn't there with the mod makers the Chinese will be and they hit the ball out of the park with this one IMHO.

I'm with you InsanelySick... I've had several near misses attempting to acquire a GG. Frankly it's been painful... then when you have it you get to see all the spares listed, but never in stock. I'm good at getting my hands on exotic stuff too. Just for some reason the GG always falls through.

I almost hate to say it, but the MKB is actually filling the void just fine now... needed some tuning, but now It's rockin' Mine never misfires, and hits like a champ... and I'm using GG accessories with it. So at the end of the day I still want a GG for the status, but I really don't NEED it - like I felt before the MKB made its way into my life.

 

[Vince159]

Spot on Upsetter! I'm sick of trying to get on a list to preorder or sit there F5ing to get one in my basket before they sell out. As you say even getting spares is a nightmare. It's easier and cheaper to get another MKB for spare parts and the quality isn't too bad.
There will always be supply and demand and if the supply isn't there with the mod makers the Chinese will be and they hit the ball out of the park with this one IMHO.

All this sounds great!! I sure hope I can get mine rockin' like a champ. Massive heat on the button. I got the brass to do the shim. I've ruled out shorts... wish me luck.

 

[Insanelysick]

Check the springs both on the bottom axis and inside the button as well as the bottom axis and button for corrosion. If there's any, sand it off. The only real reason I can think of for the button getting hot so quickly is corrosion or a short. As I said my carto shorted out on it but worked fine on my provari. But the insulation was being pushed up by the centre pin and wore it out. Either way good luck mate. The MKB-TS is a cracking mech mod.

All this sounds great!! I sure hope I can get mine rockin' like a champ. Massive heat on the button. I got the brass to do the shim. I've ruled out shorts... wish me luck.

 

[Vince159]

Check the springs both on the bottom axis and inside the button as well as the bottom axis and button for corrosion. If there's any, sand it off. The only real reason I can think of for the button getting hot so quickly is corrosion or a short. As I said my carto shorted out on it but worked fine on my provari. But the insulation was being pushed up by the centre pin and wore it out. Either way good luck mate. The MKB-TS is a cracking mech mod.

Thank you. Yea, I took the steal spring out of the bottom, battery resting on the brass. It actually heats up gradually most of the time. I'm using two adapters- ego/510 and 510/510, I don't know, maybe a short is happening in the adapters. I'm going to try and get a brass spring for the bottom tomorrow, install a piece of brass shim on the button, and make sure there's no corrosion. If that doesn't do it I'll get one of those one piece adapters. I'll get it figured out! Thanks for the advice.

 

[c00lkatz]

I doubt it's a "near" short. When you think about it, the SLR coils some of us run are very close to a short. There's just a lot of current being passed through that switch, and if a good solid contact isn't being made, then the current doesn't get as far as the coil, it's dissipated in the switch due to an increase in resistance (which causes a voltage and heat drop at the coil). When you shim the switch to make better contact, that current has a freer flowing path straight to the resistive coil where all (or most) of the heat can be dissipated. If you also use a kick (like I do for carto tanks), you'll also notice a much more consistent vape, and it will fire every time. The controller on the kick is no longer going wonky trying to adjust for changes in load voltage and perceived resistance due to an inconsistent switch contact.

When I've dead shorted a mod/battery in the past, it wasn't a gradual increase in heat, it burned my finger instantly. From what you're describing, it sounds exactly like the problem I had, which shimming the switch cured. I've run a 0.7 ohm coil on the shimmed switch without it heating up, whereas before, the switch would get hot over time as I chain vaped using the same atty/coil/battery combo.

It's probably one of those issues where some people notice/experience it more than others due to inconsistencies in the manufacturing process.

 

[Vince159]

I doubt it's a "near" short. When you think about it, the SLR coils some of us run are very close to a short. There's just a lot of current being passed through that switch, and if a good solid contact isn't being made, then the current doesn't get as far as the coil, it's dissipated in the switch due to an increase in resistance (which causes a voltage and heat drop at the coil). When you shim the switch to make better contact, that current has a freer flowing path straight to the resistive coil where all (or most) of the heat can be dissipated. If you also use a kick (like I do for carto tanks), you'll also notice a much more consistent vape, and it will fire every time. The controller on the kick is no longer going wonky trying to adjust for changes in load voltage and perceived resistance due to an inconsistent switch contact.

When I've dead shorted a mod/battery in the past, it wasn't a gradual increase in heat, it burned my finger instantly. From what you're describing, it sounds exactly like the problem I had, which shimming the switch cured.

Thank you very much c00lkatz, great feedback. I'm gonna hit the sack, find out tomorrow morning.

 

[dwcraig1]

Thank you very much c00lkatz, great feedback. I'm gonna hit the sack, find out tomorrow morning.

Take off the adapters and collector tank and try it using the native 510 of the MKB and see if the button still gets hot

 

[dwcraig1]

Re: The real GGTS', I'm just waiting and watching as they were shipped to COV from Greece yesterday