This "BLUE" tank + tip... looks kind of purple, but this is just working great on m Term-C from STORMY's on my SG-1 on #8 sig. I did notice that my Term-c does not like to change mods.... it will start to leak out the base. Noticed by a wet - gurggle hit. I will set my Term-c up & leave it on the mod i set it up for. I dont plan on putting a "gurggling" tank on my new GUS22...... I might try next month, but by then i should have the ggts- oddy base in hand x2. sorry for miss typing, but its hump day and i am drinking some vodka... done cleaning parts.
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Changing mods really shouldn't be doing much unless the positive post is not tight in the ceramic housing. The way to tighten it is after is in a near tight position slid down the bottom o-ring and grip that spot just under the positive wires nut with nettle nose pliers and turn the ceramic housing with your fingers. Don't use a screw driver for that final tightening. The shaft is brass so it can be broken but I make mine pretty darn tight.
And if you find it is not loose then look to the top tank collars o-ring for an air leak as this is the usual reason they leak/gurgle.
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Thank you very much DW. I was using a small flat head, trying to catch the inner lock nut. I never thought about hemostats or needle nose pliers to stop nut from turning. Next rebuild i will give that a try. I have 3 Terminator-C's working great so far. I have read posts were the outside "temp" will affect usage. I hope not to have that problem. Only issue i have so far is changing tank from SG-1 adapter to, stealth cap on my MKB-TS. Few weeks, and it really wont matter. Terminator-C v2 1ohm coil, 3m wick + 3m wick @ coil is great so far for me. I feel like my gennies are soon taking a back seat in my rotation. I am an AT&T field tech, the Terminator-C's ( oddy clones) DONT LEAK, and always have the same great cloud. Thank you ALL ECF members that have helped, posted prior to my set up. I really like my Term-C's. Hope every one has a great HUMP day!!! hit that twice, just because.
I have to catch up on the thread, but I needed to post this first.
As I have read from a few of you, I experienced the leaking collector tank tonight. It takes a while for the condensation to build up, but I haven't opened it for a week....until tonight after noticing juice on my battery.
After a few minutes of thought, knowing the solution was to either use glue or silicone to seal it (also thought about petroleum jelly), or find an oring small enough to fit between the center pin insulator and the base of the collector tank, I started looking at my options that I had in front of me. I didn't want to use glue, so I started digging through the parts box for an oring small enough.
I took the insulator out for size comparison, then continued to dig....though I wasn't finding anything. I was aiming for an oring out of one of my carto tanks...since I figured it would be about the right diameter, but I didn't want to rob from something I am about to sell. Then the answer literally fell in my lap....well right in front of me anyway. An old cheap drip tip roll out of the cabinet and landed on the stove top...making a pretty loud "hey look! Here I am!" crash that I am sure my wife wasn't happy about...and will surely let me know as soon as I go back to the bedroom. It's cheap...but metal. Then it hit me...the oring on the drip tip might actually work!
I wish I could take pictures to show what I did...but I locked it down pretty tight because I was trying to get the white insulator screwed back in nice and tight to make sure it never leaked again. And doing so, the brass piece in the center started backing out instead...so I know the insulator is in there good. I now have perfect airflow control, where as before I could close it and still get air...though it was very tight. I put the collector tank back together and filled it with water...zero leaking now...when before the water quickly found the threads and trickled out.
So, find a dt you don't use...rob the oring, unscrew the insulator and pin from the bottom of the collector tank, insert the dt oring from the under side of the connector, screw the insulator back in and tighten nice and snug (don't over do it...the brass will strip the threads of the insulator), and have a no leaking...ever...vapegasm!
(was that too much??? Haha! )
Hope this helps those that have the leaking problem...and those of us that know how hard it is to get a gg connector and all that goes with it.
Happy vaping friends...I have been since I pieces this beauty together!
As I have read from a few of you, I experienced the leaking collector tank tonight. It takes a while for the condensation to build up, but I haven't opened it for a week....until tonight after noticing juice on my battery.
After a few minutes of thought, knowing the solution was to either use glue or silicone to seal it (also thought about petroleum jelly), or find an oring small enough to fit between the center pin insulator and the base of the collector tank, I started looking at my options that I had in front of me. I didn't want to use glue, so I started digging through the parts box for an oring small enough.
I took the insulator out for size comparison, then continued to dig....though I wasn't finding anything. I was aiming for an oring out of one of my carto tanks...since I figured it would be about the right diameter, but I didn't want to rob from something I am about to sell. Then the answer literally fell in my lap....well right in front of me anyway. An old cheap drip tip roll out of the cabinet and landed on the stove top...making a pretty loud "hey look! Here I am!" crash that I am sure my wife wasn't happy about...and will surely let me know as soon as I go back to the bedroom. It's cheap...but metal. Then it hit me...the oring on the drip tip might actually work!
I wish I could take pictures to show what I did...but I locked it down pretty tight because I was trying to get the white insulator screwed back in nice and tight to make sure it never leaked again. And doing so, the brass piece in the center started backing out instead...so I know the insulator is in there good. I now have perfect airflow control, where as before I could close it and still get air...though it was very tight. I put the collector tank back together and filled it with water...zero leaking now...when before the water quickly found the threads and trickled out.
So, find a dt you don't use...rob the oring, unscrew the insulator and pin from the bottom of the collector tank, insert the dt oring from the under side of the connector, screw the insulator back in and tighten nice and snug (don't over do it...the brass will strip the threads of the insulator), and have a no leaking...ever...vapegasm!
(was that too much??? Haha! ) Hope this helps those that have the leaking problem...and those of us that know how hard it is to get a gg connector and all that goes with it.
Happy vaping friends...I have been since I pieces this beauty together!
Care to take a pic of said o-ring setup?
I have to catch up on the thread, but I needed to post this first.
As I have read from a few of you, I experienced the leaking collector tank tonight. It takes a while for the condensation to build up, but I haven't opened it for a week....until tonight after noticing juice on my battery.
After a few minutes of thought, knowing the solution was to either use glue or silicone to seal it (also thought about petroleum jelly), or find an oring small enough to fit between the center pin insulator and the base of the collector tank, I started looking at my options that I had in front of me. I didn't want to use glue, so I started digging through the parts box for an oring small enough.
I took the insulator out for size comparison, then continued to dig....though I wasn't finding anything. I was aiming for an oring out of one of my carto tanks...since I figured it would be about the right diameter, but I didn't want to rob from something I am about to sell. Then the answer literally fell in my lap....well right in front of me anyway. An old cheap drip tip roll out of the cabinet and landed on the stove top...making a pretty loud "hey look! Here I am!" crash that I am sure my wife wasn't happy about...and will surely let me know as soon as I go back to the bedroom. It's cheap...but metal. Then it hit me...the oring on the drip tip might actually work!
I wish I could take pictures to show what I did...but I locked it down pretty tight because I was trying to get the white insulator screwed back in nice and tight to make sure it never leaked again. And doing so, the brass piece in the center started backing out instead...so I know the insulator is in there good. I now have perfect airflow control, where as before I could close it and still get air...though it was very tight. I put the collector tank back together and filled it with water...zero leaking now...when before the water quickly found the threads and trickled out.
So, find a dt you don't use...rob the oring, unscrew the insulator and pin from the bottom of the collector tank, insert the dt oring from the under side of the connector, screw the insulator back in and tighten nice and snug (don't over do it...the brass will strip the threads of the insulator), and have a no leaking...ever...vapegasm!
Hope this helps those that have the leaking problem...and those of us that know how hard it is to get a gg connector and all that goes with it.
Happy vaping friends...I have been since I pieces this beauty together!
View attachment 222591
I have to catch up on the thread, but I needed to post this first.
As I have read from a few of you, I experienced the leaking collector tank tonight. It takes a while for the condensation to build up, but I haven't opened it for a week....until tonight after noticing juice on my battery.
After a few minutes of thought, knowing the solution was to either use glue or silicone to seal it (also thought about petroleum jelly), or find an oring small enough to fit between the center pin insulator and the base of the collector tank, I started looking at my options that I had in front of me. I didn't want to use glue, so I started digging through the parts box for an oring small enough.
I took the insulator out for size comparison, then continued to dig....though I wasn't finding anything. I was aiming for an oring out of one of my carto tanks...since I figured it would be about the right diameter, but I didn't want to rob from something I am about to sell. Then the answer literally fell in my lap....well right in front of me anyway. An old cheap drip tip roll out of the cabinet and landed on the stove top...making a pretty loud "hey look! Here I am!" crash that I am sure my wife wasn't happy about...and will surely let me know as soon as I go back to the bedroom. It's cheap...but metal. Then it hit me...the oring on the drip tip might actually work!
I wish I could take pictures to show what I did...but I locked it down pretty tight because I was trying to get the white insulator screwed back in nice and tight to make sure it never leaked again. And doing so, the brass piece in the center started backing out instead...so I know the insulator is in there good. I now have perfect airflow control, where as before I could close it and still get air...though it was very tight. I put the collector tank back together and filled it with water...zero leaking now...when before the water quickly found the threads and trickled out.
So, find a dt you don't use...rob the oring, unscrew the insulator and pin from the bottom of the collector tank, insert the dt oring from the under side of the connector, screw the insulator back in and tighten nice and snug (don't over do it...the brass will strip the threads of the insulator), and have a no leaking...ever...vapegasm!
Hope this helps those that have the leaking problem...and those of us that know how hard it is to get a gg connector and all that goes with it.
Happy vaping friends...I have been since I pieces this beauty together!
View attachment 222591
I haven't had a leaking to battery problem yet, but if I develope one, this sounds like a practical and easy modification. Thanks for sharing.
Like I said, I really wish I could..but the insulator is so tight now that it didn't back out. The brass nut on the center pin housing started to back out instead. It's one of those things where you don't think about the picture until after the fact, and I don't want to ruin mine to be able to take one.
Just take off the collector tank base....the part that has the sliding center pin through it, and take out the insulator the center pin goes through. It will make sense when you see it.
Can anyone confirm that the clear tanks from Rampage Vapor will work with my Oddy clone?
Oddy's Housing -
Thanks!
Oddy's Housing -
Thanks!
They will no doubt work on the terminator and term-c's. I have not tried any of mine on the tobeco atties mostly because I dont have any.
This is a clear tank on a term-c
Beautiful! I'm searching for a Term C. Best I can find is $69, I missed out on MOV's sale by about a day; any deals out there, by chance?
Yaa i got 2 from the MOV sale. I got my 1st one from stormy's. Great service, they are out of stock atm, but check her site. she will email you when she gets them in.
Terminator-C R/A Tank V2
I missed the MOV term-c sale as well. If I'm not mistaken they were the v1's where Stormy is carrying the v2's with the improved ceramic design.
http://www.okcvapes.com/nautilus-rba-series/ seems to have them under the name "Nautilus".
http://www.okcvapes.com/nautilus-rba-series/ seems to have them under the name "Nautilus".
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Interesting. So many versions. Hard to know what's what. More research required i guess. The unit that's the good one is made by Rainbow, right?
Exactly. The Terminator is a very good clone of the Odysseus. So good in fact that all parts are interchangable. That means that the Odysseus GGTS Base will work on the Terminator which will then connect to the Collector Tank on the MKB-TS (some people need to deepen the first few threads on the MKB-TS Collector Tank but I didn't need to on mine). It makes a very nice solid connection with no internal adapters needed and full proper use of the air flow control ring, the positive pin on the Term/Ody makes direct contact with the positive brass post of the MKB-TS. After using it this way I can't even imagine going back to a 510 connection.
Edit: Bah! lol Tech you beat me to an explanation!
After getting the above info, I went to COV and bought an Odysseus GGTS base piece, it's on the way. I'm now looking at buying a Nautilus. Will the base work on the Nautilus the same as a Terminator C? Also, I'm curious if I get the nautilus, will the "Oddy's Housing" pieces work on it?
I'm searching the forums for this info, thanks for any help from the experts.
QUOTE: "So all this talk about the battery spring got me to do a little mod on the axis.
Here's what I did, I used a diamond bit in my Dremel clone and ground out the first 2 1/2 threads out of the axis so those 3 coils that still stick out can collapse into the axis giving it the same connection as if there were no spring at all while still maintaining some tension on the battery so it doesn't become loose as easily. I've been thinking about for awhile now, I'll see how it goes before doing it to my other one"
Well I was so pleased with how well this simple modification worked that I applied it to my other MKB
Here's what I did, I used a diamond bit in my Dremel clone and ground out the first 2 1/2 threads out of the axis so those 3 coils that still stick out can collapse into the axis giving it the same connection as if there were no spring at all while still maintaining some tension on the battery so it doesn't become loose as easily. I've been thinking about for awhile now, I'll see how it goes before doing it to my other one"
Well I was so pleased with how well this simple modification worked that I applied it to my other MKB
Nautilus and Terminator are the same atomizer, it's only the names that are different.
But then Smoktech added to the confusion by calling their Killer clone "Terminator"
But then Smoktech added to the confusion by calling their Killer clone "Terminator"
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not sure i got this DW, i thought the axis is the brass spring cup holder ? Or the plastic insulator that is fixed as far as i know. Sounds like you shortened the spring?
I've still got the spring out so the firing pin hits the side of the brass cup (axis?), and using tele feature and stormys top cap a 18650 fits fine... still get warm button...Haven't gotten to the brass shim yet though.
I've still got the spring out so the firing pin hits the side of the brass cup (axis?), and using tele feature and stormys top cap a 18650 fits fine... still get warm button...Haven't gotten to the brass shim yet though.
So all this talk about the battery spring got me to do a little mod on the axis.
Here's what I did, I used a diamond bit in my Dremel clone and ground out the first 2 1/2 threads out of the axis so those 3 coils that still stick out can collapse into the axis giving it the same connection as if there were no spring at all while still maintaining some tension on the battery so it doesn't become loose as easily. I've been thinking about for awhile now, I'll see how it goes before doing it to my other one.
Still have some gap between the cap and tube, but of coarse that was not my purpose but it did shorten it about 4 mm.
I'll try to explain, with the spring in place and screwed all the way in when you crank down the tubes the approx. 3 coils sticking out are unable to go into the axis so the connection is made not at the top of the axis but on the collapsed 3 coils.
A lot of the folks here are simply removing the spring so the end of the axis contacts directly with the battery negative.
The problem here while small is without the spring tension the tubes tend to want to become lose with handling.
My spring collapses into the axis, the battery contacts the axis, spring tension is maintained on the unit.
End result is the same electrically as no spring but it tends to stay tightened up better with the spring tension on it.
Off to work, back in a few
A lot of the folks here are simply removing the spring so the end of the axis contacts directly with the battery negative.
The problem here while small is without the spring tension the tubes tend to want to become lose with handling.
My spring collapses into the axis, the battery contacts the axis, spring tension is maintained on the unit.
End result is the same electrically as no spring but it tends to stay tightened up better with the spring tension on it.
Off to work, back in a few
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