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Is there a place we can get extra battery springs? Anyone know a website with different sizes? Not just for the MKB-TS but also for my other mods?
Pulled the trigger on the Nautilus, waiting for the GGTS base from COV, got 30g Kanthal and nonresistant on the way as well. The dream is being to take form! Next I'll go pick up a large clear tank and longer mouth piece. This is gonna be fun! I really like dual coil RDA'S, but I think this Ody clone is going to be a whole new ball game.
Up until a couple of days ago I thought I knew enough to make an informed decision on just what batteries were best to buy when using a mechanical with sub ohm load. Remember the more you know the more you realize you don't know. I have been using the Panasonic 2250 mah hybrids rated at 10 amp discharge. These are excellent for a VV mod BTW.
I have some of these coming, 2 from Ebay and 2 from FastTech(half the price) $12.79 Sony US18650VTC3 18650 1600mAh 3.7V Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries (2-Pack) 2-pack - 30A discharge at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
This thread I now follow, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...lp-picking-best-battery-sub-ohm-vaping-5.html
And this video really got my attention:
I'm not saying that these are the best for this application as they are so new.
The can't go wrong choice is the AW 18650 1600 mah and is clearly one that is widely available, it has a much higher amp output than the AW 2000 battery. There are a couple other good choices, read the thread.
(SUB OHM)
I have some of these coming, 2 from Ebay and 2 from FastTech(half the price) $12.79 Sony US18650VTC3 18650 1600mAh 3.7V Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries (2-Pack) 2-pack - 30A discharge at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
This thread I now follow, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...lp-picking-best-battery-sub-ohm-vaping-5.html
And this video really got my attention:
I'm not saying that these are the best for this application as they are so new.
The can't go wrong choice is the AW 18650 1600 mah and is clearly one that is widely available, it has a much higher amp output than the AW 2000 battery. There are a couple other good choices, read the thread.
(SUB OHM)
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Does anyone happen to know if there is anywhere one can purchase a brass battery spring and a new "switch" for the MKB? If my memory doesn't fail me I think I read in this thread that the brass GGTS springs over at COV will not fit in the MKB, is this correct? If anyone has found brass springs or a new switch for the MKB could you kindly point a semi-noob mechanical user in the right direction? Thank you.
That guy seems kinda creepy lol.
So, I'm seeing about a 0.1V increase. Not much in my opinion, especially considering he is using a K100 which has the least amount of voltage drop of all my mech mods. The reason his voltages kept lowering was due to the coil causing a higher load on the battery as the juice is vaporized from the wick. No more cooling effect from the juice or airflow, a lot more heat exponentially being produced. You can see this when metering a dry wick vs a wet one, or by blowing on the coil when it's glowing, simulating air being drawn across it.
Not enough to make me go out and buy more batteries, but those small increases do add up, especially on a mod like the MKB that is notorious for voltage drop issues (one reason I use a kick).
Out of all the batteries I have, I have found that the higher the amp rating, the worse the voltage drop, but also the more consistent the voltage. It's kind of a fine line you tread with these batteries. The AW's I have (700/1600/2000) have the least amount of voltage drop, but they also offer the least consistent vape on an SLR setup. The Panasonic CGR 2250 I have has the best battery life by far. My MNKE which I specifically bought for SLR have the worst voltage drop out of them all, but also offer the most consistent vape at that lower voltage, albeit with more safety as well.
Personally, I have found that the batteries don't make that big a difference until you get to the "real" SLR coils (almost dead short), and even then, the mod makes a bigger difference. For VV/VW, I don't really care what I throw in there. It all works the same. For SLR, I use whatever tastes best with the mod and juice I'm using. And in all honesty, I wouldn't even do that if I didn't already have them. Stick with a reputable brand and battery, and be done with it. If you're going all out with less than 0.7-0.8 ohm resistance, then stick with the safer battery.
I still don't understand people running SLR setups anyway...from what I have read, you are just asking for trouble. Why do you think the vv/VW devices with safety features cut off below 1ohm...sometimes higher ?
To each their own, but all of this SLR advertisement making its way to new vapers...some that haven't had the time to take all of this information in....in my opinion is dangerous.
Like I said....in my opinion. Also in my opinion...thrill rides shouldn't be a part of vaping...all it would take is some accidental battery discharges in public, or worse, someone getting hurt....and the wrong people would have more ammo to fight against vaping.
To each their own, but all of this SLR advertisement making its way to new vapers...some that haven't had the time to take all of this information in....in my opinion is dangerous.
Like I said....in my opinion. Also in my opinion...thrill rides shouldn't be a part of vaping...all it would take is some accidental battery discharges in public, or worse, someone getting hurt....and the wrong people would have more ammo to fight against vaping.
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wow great post... i broke it up to what "spoke" to me there.
I've heard some lately about eFest, which i had earlier dismissed, but seeing some graphs it made me wonder.
I have a couple MNKE and a ton of AW 1600 IMR... it seems to me the MNKE just doesn't make it for me... poops out early ( i use almost exclusively sub 1.0 ohms, but some silica tanks like Kayfun 3.1 and Penelope seem better with 1.+)
I've always stuck with AW IMR to be as safe as well as for performance....
Lately with SLR it feels like I'm vaping a 14500 in terms of time of performance... but that's on mods like MKB and Sig 8 .
btw I did some inline tests of my own and found MKB and "improved" Sig 8 (both with spring removed) still get a .7 to .8 voltage drop under load... I do NOT get what the youtube vid guy showed with removing the spring in the Sig8 with brass contacts... he halved the voltage drop at least. Mine showed .7+ drops.
I ended up putting springs back in just because the button felt weird and wobbly all the time... and i'm still getting warmth with fresh batts. The vape is great anyway; but like i said it feels like I'm using a tiny batt; constantly changing out for fresh batts.
btw my K100s and K101 have the least voltage drop too... half what the MKB and Sig 8 show; .3 to .4
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I do agree that SLR has made its way to newbs that shouldn't be dealing with it, but in all honesty, it really is a different (better) vape. It's something you have to experience to understand. But it does have its shortcomings and dangers, and I agree it's not something that newbs should read about and just go out and try. It can be dangerous in the wrong hands.
It's kind of like handing over the keys to a [insert your favorite sports/exotic car here] to a 16 year old driver. It's a bad ... ride, but should be treated with respect and most importantly, looked upon with a decent sense of intelligence.
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I only have one eFest 18350 battery, but it has proven to be a good performer...next to my AW 700mAh 18350 I can't tell a difference other than the AW gives me maybe 45 min to an hour longer vape time. I have no experience with the 18650 eFest batteries. I need some 18490/18500 batteries for my kick (for longer batt life), and I plan on going eFest for those based on my success with the 18350 version.
My K100 along with an AW is my go to when I need a lot of power for a particular juice, for sure. I think it has to do with the switch. The bottom switch, even in all its plated glory, has so much contact area it just flows the electrons much better than its much smaller counterparts. I have found voltage drop gets better with size as well. I get much less voltage drop when I remove the collector tank and throw on a stealth cap in 18350 mode on my MKB-TS.
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gotta admit i've been guilty of promoting that "SLR at any cost" mentality when i first found out about it for myself.
I did think a .6 ohm coil on an 18350 was a bit nutz...
When i first heard about it i ignored it as crazy... old school types (like me actually) are used to a sweet spot about 7 to 9 watts and would never even consider wanting to go lower than 1.5... which used to be for hot shots... 2.4 to 3.0 ohms is SR, and for me 1.5 was too hot. I ignored it for almost a year after RBA's first came out. (got into HH357's for the longest time (and money).
But what I found is that RBA's are a different animal... its all i do now; either drippers or silica tanks or genesis and mostly sub 1.0.
Anyway now I realize promoting SLR to newbs is like trying to teach my 13 yr old about down-shifting and driving tricks before they get their learners permit and put some time in on the road.
My question about batts is, can you tell if a batt is getting old and ready for the recyclers if when you charge it it doesn't reach full charge?
i.e. AW IMR 4.1Xv ? or is that not all there is to it...
i.e. AW IMR 4.1Xv ? or is that not all there is to it...
In short, yes. As long as your charger is reliable, and charging other batteries correctly. If the battery is taking an unusually long time to charge, is not charging to full capacity, or the charger is not shutting off, indicating full charge, it's time for the battery to go.
Another approach to figuring the batteries useful life left is for example you have a charger that charges at 500 ma and your battery is 2000 mah, just do the math, 2000 divided by 500 = 4 hours to charge from its lowest charge state. If it's really low and it charges in say in 1 hour then it's really a goner.
Think of it as a 2000 gallon water tank and your able to fill it with your garden hose at a rate of 500 gallons an hour.
There are other factors to consider, this is just one of them.
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So back to the Sony 30 amp battery, I received two of them today and proceeded to compare them to the Panasonic 2250 hybrid, here are my results:
Both brands fresh off the charger @ 4.2 volts, the Sony is on it's first cycle, the Panasonics are maybe a month old at the most.
Mod is a box mod that I made from a Vision Eternity box (best part of that deal).
Atomizer Igo-L with 0.5 ohm coil.
The numbers:
Sony .........3.80 volts
Panasonic...3.79 volts
Now there was something said about a new battery improving after some initial use, is there any truth to that?
I work nights so tomorrow when I get home I'll do this test again and put a little more time into it to see how the voltage tapers off with more usage.
Both brands fresh off the charger @ 4.2 volts, the Sony is on it's first cycle, the Panasonics are maybe a month old at the most.
Mod is a box mod that I made from a Vision Eternity box (best part of that deal).
Atomizer Igo-L with 0.5 ohm coil.
The numbers:
Sony .........3.80 volts
Panasonic...3.79 volts
Now there was something said about a new battery improving after some initial use, is there any truth to that?
I work nights so tomorrow when I get home I'll do this test again and put a little more time into it to see how the voltage tapers off with more usage.
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I've found they begin to last a little longer but haven't felt a noticeably stronger hit off of them. As for actual measurements, I test voltage drop every now and then on my mods and batts just as a precautionary measure and haven't noticed any higher than normal readings. But that's pretty good for a battery rated so high in current. My MNKE are rated high but drop voltage lower. For the Sony to be rated so high and still maintain voltage is pretty good.
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I'm having a lot of connection problems with mine. I'm using an RSST. I have trouble getting the center pin to properly connect. I need to fiddle with it a lot. Also, what is the point of the stupid adapter? Why not just have the connection at the top of the gold ring? And the post always comes out of the adapter. I'm thinking about getting the replacement top cap for it. Also, where can I get a spring for it?
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