My Ithaka fits perfectly into my MKB with out the gold cap, in fact I screw it directly into the air control top of the MKB. I don't know why the oddy wouldn't do the same. Isn't it the same base and the Ithaka?
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My Ithaka fits perfectly into my MKB with out the gold cap, in fact I screw it directly into the air control top of the MKB. I don't know why the oddy wouldn't do the same. Isn't it the same base and the Ithaka?
It does but you have to remove the 510 Oddy base and replace it with the GGTS Oddy base
Thanks! I have it exactly like how you put on your shim. I realized why I was still getting a hot switch, it was because the brass part of the switch was barely touching the base, so the contact between the two were really bad. Do right between the brass screw and the stainless steel button, i put a small piece of the brass shim sheet in place to extend the switch, and then screwed them together providing better contact. Now I have no more hot switch, and now, out of my carvela clone, and my k101 with shaved contacts (sold it), this one I feel gives me the best vape out of all of them. The ody base, and removing the battery spring might also add up to the factor why I like the mkb over the other two.
Here's what the brass shims look like from Ace Hardware (well, the one i bought). Comes with three pieces, .001, .002, .003, and .005. Total was about $5.86 with tax, or around that as of July 2nd, 2013.
This is kind of an ACE unique display in my experience. K&S normally caters to hobby and craft shops. If you have a good hobby shop with trains and remote airplains, likely you'll find a similar display.
I'm laughing right now, because according to the time stamps I missed the discounted Ithaka clones because I was hanging out in the GG arena! (for my first time)
I don't know if I'm going to grab one of these eventually, but that discounted price almost brought it.
I don't know if I'm going to grab one of these eventually, but that discounted price almost brought it.
Lowes does have it in the hardware section, but the sizes are all too big, .010 and up. They also have copper, but it's size is also too big.
Lowes has something to use for a switch shim. I'll have to look for an ace hardware around me. However, In the roofing section at lowes they have copper roof flashing by the roll. I didn't need a 30' roll but the associate let take a 1"x1" "sample" for free. My shim is working well though. First I used some zippo lighter fluid to dissolve the adhesive, then wash in soap and water. I was left with copper sheet about .006 thick. I took my oddity clone with the steel tank and used it like a roller to roll the copper out a bit to thin it and make it nice nice. I cut the size pice for the shim them took a drill bit and rolled it in the direction needed for the shim to to roll up like it will sit in the switch assembly. Slid the shim in very carfully while wrapped around the button. While I had it apart I also sanded the spring a lil to remove any oxide and stretched it out a tad as well. I think the whole process made it hit quite a bit noticeably harder. Great mod guys!
Wow I had no idea this was even going on. I might make it Friday. Thanks for the heads up!
Also.... im trying to visualize how the plunger button makes its connection and how the shim aids in this besides smoothing the feel out.
The bat neg sits on bottom vent cap assembly's spring which grounds the mods body, so the button housing thats threaded into the body is neg and I realize the plunger makes connection with the brass post when pressed.... but does this connection rely on the buttons spring to make the connection or the buttons friction against the housing , or a combo of both?
I guess im just asking if shimming the button also helps relieve voltage drop by providing a better connection?
The bat neg sits on bottom vent cap assembly's spring which grounds the mods body, so the button housing thats threaded into the body is neg and I realize the plunger makes connection with the brass post when pressed.... but does this connection rely on the buttons spring to make the connection or the buttons friction against the housing , or a combo of both?
I guess im just asking if shimming the button also helps relieve voltage drop by providing a better connection?
Ithaka could very well have been called Oddy version 3, there are quite a few differences but the two main features are an adjustable air control ring when used with the 510 connection just as you have with the MKB-TS with Oddy and a GGTS base. The ceramic assembly has two channels on each side and across the top so it can have dual coils/dual wicks or single coil/dual wicks, they can be side by side or in a "X" configuration. Many parts will interchange between Ithaka and Oddy (or Terms)
I made a micro coil using 32 gauge Nichrome on a 1/16" rod, the NR was already attached. I then threaded two strands of Peaches and Creme cotton yarn through it and mounted it in a stock v1 ceramic. Then cut the top wick where it would be just across the top (two strands in the coil and one down each channel). This is not a very long coil, it's 2.4 ohms at at 10 watts all I can say is I'm really impressed.
More like amazed, I shall try another one using 30 gauge and double the cotton in one of my ceramics with larger channels.
More like amazed, I shall try another one using 30 gauge and double the cotton in one of my ceramics with larger channels.
Ive been playing around with micro coils too in my dripper.... pretty nice but needs a vv (provari)
Waiting on my replacement term to come so I can play with sub ohm coils on hemp. Got some really good wicking hemp from lovepedals on ebay and the stuff tastes great.
At that time though I was vaping coppercreek houseblend and that stuff tastes great for a few hours before turning any coil to a burnt mess.
I got about 10 bottles of tobacco flavors from hhv that burns way cleaner and should work well.
Waiting on my replacement term to come so I can play with sub ohm coils on hemp. Got some really good wicking hemp from lovepedals on ebay and the stuff tastes great.
At that time though I was vaping coppercreek houseblend and that stuff tastes great for a few hours before turning any coil to a burnt mess.
I got about 10 bottles of tobacco flavors from hhv that burns way cleaner and should work well.
duh... i thought this was the spring for the axis/batt connect.... but its way too small; got mine in. Aew you talking about cutting this down for the button switch spring?
like this is what i thought it was for... the batt spring, but its way bigger than the above from Amazon
I was told it starts at noon on Friday...for some reason...until around 7, and I think they said 2-7 on Saturday....which really doesn't make much sense. Sounds kind of backwards to me. Look for me...I'll have on a Titleist GT hat and either a UA or "Nuke Life" tshirt.
I knew it was for the switch, but the ones I have are too big and will not work in mine. It needs to be a slightly smaller OD
I guess i could cram it in some ... it does go in.. but long.
ANYWAY, just finally did my shim.... thanks for the spec 18.88mmx8mm...Rule62 - worked like a charm.
Did a inline test: 1.5 Ohm Pene showed .25v drop !!! I'm stoked with that...
The shim makes it feel more solid too.
the throw is very short; almost scary... about what 2mm?
*Vince! thanks for the shim material.
Got a .9 ohm Stratus 22 geni and its great... not hot anymore. Like it was before the shim.
fwiw I use the stealth cap ...
Do you think that lower resistance atomizer coils i.e. .5 or .6 ohms will cause more hot button than not ... or am i good now?
The only time i use dual coils is with some drippers, but if the device is hitting good, a single micro coil dripper at .8 or .9 ohms kicks ... just fine.
ANYWAY, just finally did my shim.... thanks for the spec 18.88mmx8mm...Rule62 - worked like a charm.
Did a inline test: 1.5 Ohm Pene showed .25v drop !!! I'm stoked with that...
The shim makes it feel more solid too.
the throw is very short; almost scary... about what 2mm?
*Vince! thanks for the shim material.
Got a .9 ohm Stratus 22 geni and its great... not hot anymore. Like it was before the shim.
fwiw I use the stealth cap ...
Do you think that lower resistance atomizer coils i.e. .5 or .6 ohms will cause more hot button than not ... or am i good now?
The only time i use dual coils is with some drippers, but if the device is hitting good, a single micro coil dripper at .8 or .9 ohms kicks ... just fine.
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