MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

[dwcraig1]

Its 10 o-rings. I will see what arrives. If its a miss print on there size, it gets returned. I can wait a few days, i am rocking my kayfun Lite atm.

If time is a problem you better order the correct ones now because they for sure are not the correct ones, just saying.
The size is listed correctly, just confusing.
If the correct ones, the ones you need were to be listed in that format they would be 9 x 13 x 2 mm

 

[crss]

Time is not an issue. I have lots of o-rings from stormy's and a few o-ring kits. Will see what arrives, i am no stress this week.

 

[upsetter21]

Just wanted to add one other situation that can cause the flooding with the juice flow closed... if the MP catches that locking ring, it can become loose and juice can find it's way to the lower portion of the atomizer and leak out the bottom. That's happened to me a few times. In fact it seemed a more pronounced occurrence since the GGTS base entered the rotation likely due to the heavily polished surface no longer provided the same friction one would expect on the Terminator 510 bases.

The first time this happened to me I almost checked in for a 5150 because I was vaping with my the Juice Control closed tight. When I realized what was happening my wishful side started imagining that I had just made a "Basic Juice Fee" like the Ithaka. But, it's too unstable as the rebuildable portion dances when the lock ring is loose and juice goes where it shouldn't.

I've also had wild hairs from the wick material catch the mouthpiece and cause unwanted unscrewing. Basically I just don't lock that neg wire under the ring, and I use small pliers to tighten the lock ring in a more mega way.

 

[dwcraig1]

upsetter5150, catchy name

 

[dwcraig1]

Other than creating a leak when filling I've yet to see what "basic feeding" is for on Ithaka.
I've read what was said about it but don't see any value in it at all.

 

[deezdrama]

Ya they are definitely too small of o-rings... I got em at home.

Anyway... if juice can flood the bottom atty section through the knurled lockring.... has anyone put an o-ring underneath it? I have all sizes of nice babyblue o-rings here at work and may try this, they are for hydraulic lines I beleive and are alot more robust than rubber, almost like teflon... I think it would lockdown good with no squishing or deforming

 

[upsetter21]

Just check the MSDS on the material before you consider it safe.

 

[UA72Riddle]

Ya they are definitely too small of o-rings... I got em at home.

Anyway... if juice can flood the bottom atty section through the knurled lockring.... has anyone put an o-ring underneath it? I have all sizes of nice babyblue o-rings here at work and may try this, they are for hydraulic lines I beleive and are alot more robust than rubber, almost like teflon... I think it would lockdown good with no squishing or deforming

I have two Terms, and never have a problem with any juice leaking past the locking ring....never really understood how that is even happening unless someone is building it wrong or something, or there is some sort of a manufacturing defect. The wire we use isnt big enough to leave a big gap to allow juice to flood the base.

 

[dwcraig1]

If juice leaks past the locking ring generally it will travel up the wicks and down the center of the ceramic.
Unless like upsetter21 mentioned where the ceramic housing has backed out, and then it will leak where ever it can find it's way out.

 

[buffalofloyd]

Cool, got my MKB-TS #2612 today. Liking the mod so far but the adapters are really wonky and nothing will really sit flush with the top cap. Totally pointless IMO. I really dislike the battery spring, seems like I'm probably losing voltage with that thing in there but if I take it out 18490's and 18650's won't fit right. I tried using the adapters and my button got mad hot and i noticed my spring retracted and is a bit deformed now but still usable. I think this thing is only gonna be really good for GG stuff with a proper GG base. I've been using my Nautilus with the GG base and it's really nice, although I will say, I don't know if it's my imagination but the draw seems stiffer then when I was using the 510 connection on my GP Paps. Oh well...

Has anyone used a brass screw in place of the spring?

 

[Vince159]

Just got my 2nd MKB-TS. The 1st one didn't have a number or emblem on it. This one says MKB-TS 1105 just above the switch. It came with 2 adapters,
510/Ego and 510/510 shorty. I have had no problem using adapters on my 1st one, everything I tried on it worked. I had heat on the button on my 1st one, but the switch has worked great since shimming it- buffalofloyd if you look back on this thread abotu 2 weeks ago, roughly, you'll find info on shimming the switch. Well, time to make a big bowl of hot soapy water.

As far as the spring goes I just took my out and ran batteries straight off the post. I never thought of puttng a brass screw in it. A few days ago I got a brass spring for it, which didn't fit perfectly, but I got it going in there.

 

[Vince159]

Double post..

 

[dwcraig1]

@ buffalofloyd, unless you have your air control ring adjusted towards closed that would have to be your imagination. The sound of the air may be something affecting your perception of it. Just thinking out loud.
The size of the slot in the center pin of the MKB may be smaller, does the Paps have a slot on it's positive post?

 

[dwcraig1]

Ea mod just has the post (axis) with no spring.

 

[buffalofloyd]

Hmm... Not sure what the whole shimming thing is but maybe I'll have a look. I stand totally corrected too Btw, just took the spring out and using just the post and it's all good. Thought I tried that but it wasn't working... I'm must have had the 18650 tube on, I'm an idiot. No more spring Thanks!

 

[buffalofloyd]

@ buffalofloyd, unless you have your air control ring adjusted towards closed that would have to be your imagination. The sound of the air may be something affecting your perception of it. Just thinking out loud.
The size of the slot in the center pin of the MKB may be smaller, does the Paps have a slot on it's positive post?

There's no slot on the post in the Paps, it's totally flat. My ring is all the way open, I think it's just me. I am somewhat confused on why there are slots in the post on the mod and on the end of the Nautilus, seems totally useless to mee, what am I missing here?

 

[buffalofloyd]

I will say also, the mod is super nice with the Nautilus and the GGTS base, looks great and feels really solid. I've noticed since using the base I have 0 drips of juice so far today that I can detect. Using the 510 base I always seemed to have a little leakage (ewww!) on the post of my Paps or EA or Provari. I can see the o-ring on the post of the Nautilus is pressed up nice against the inner base of the GGTS base therefore creating a nice seal. I am thinking this was not the case with the 510 base. Total guess here but seems logical.

 

[dwcraig1]

the slots on the atomizer's post and the mod's post is to let the air in.

 

[buffalofloyd]

the slots on the atomizer's post and the mod's post is to let the air in.

Ah yes, duh... makes sense. Seems to me the more appropriate way could have been going in with a hole in the side of the post, for the atomizer anyway, just a thought. Anyway, liking the mod so far.

 

[Vince159]

My new MKB-TS is feeling a bit better quality in craftsmanship than my first one. My guess is with popularity picking up, they're getting better at manufacturiing them. The switch is just better. It was fairly clean inside, the spring is better, after I put the shim in it was perfect. i didn't have to work with it at all. It went back together and was smooth, springy, and alot better than the switch on my first one. I can't point out anything else specifically. I was and am very happy with the first one, but this new one just feels a little nicer; maybe the nice switch is psyching me out, it is a great switch, comparatively speaking.