MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

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Vince159

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I have 2 mkb-ts. I got them in May, mid month was my bday. I aso have 2 stealth caps, 2 ody-ts bases. 2 Term-c's set up 3mm wick, 1ohm - 1.1 ohm, xtra 3mm under coil. grounded under wick, not ring.. No leaks, fluid flow open .5 (HALF) turn, to start. No leaking, nada, none. This is the most $$$ nice $$$ smooth $$$ functioning $$$ mech mod combo i have. I do have some other mods, GUS's, Stratus22, sigelei mechs, even last week a Noble 1 hybrid. My mkb-ts's + everything i put on top, is the nicest, safest, great vape so far.. 4 me:2c:

I'm relatively new to this set up, and mine has been going through juice pretty fast. I've been starting at about 1.5 to 2 turns, I'm thinking that must have something to do with it. My coil is about 1.5. Are the Term-C's known for going through juice fast?
 

upsetter21

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I have no proof, but my Terminators seem to blow through the juice. I've heard a lot over Oddy type devices being juice savers, but I have yet to experience that. When I first got a Terminator working correctly, I felt I was introduced to mass juice consumption. I think the exceptional flavor is attributed partly to that. I never got anything over 30ml's back in the dripping-only days. On tanks I'm going out to fetch 120ml's.

The wildcard tho is the nic level. I dropped my nic when I realized I was vaping more. You know how there's an end to an analog but the end is A LOT further away on an 18650? Well, so I consider I may being trying to get that nic I'm missing. Dunno.

I should also mention I have like 3/8" of juice flow open lately to handle a thick 80VG/20PG juice.
 

dwcraig1

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I have no proof, but my Terminators seem to blow through the juice. I've heard a lot over Oddy type devices being juice savers, but I have yet to experience that. When I first got a Terminator working correctly, I felt I was introduced to mass juice consumption. I think the exceptional flavor is attributed partly to that. I never got anything over 30ml's back in the dripping-only days. On tanks I'm going out to fetch 120ml's.

The wildcard tho is the nic level. I dropped my nic when I realized I was vaping more. You know how there's an end to an analog but the end is A LOT further away on an 18650? Well, so I consider I may being trying to get that nic I'm missing. Dunno.

I should also mention I have like 3/8" of juice flow open lately to handle a thick 80VG/20PG juice.
I saw that "juice sipper" but it doesn't pertain to mine, I don't lose a drop to leakage and I probably use 5 to 7 ml a day but I'm not stuffing 3 mm wick in a channel meant for 2 mm wick, more like just the opposite, mine are super thirsty.
I have also dropped my nic level in my juice.
 
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dwcraig1

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That may be the difference for me then. I use 3mm wick now and the wick I got with it at first was smaller. So that makes sense to me.
I always buy the largest wick that I'll use (3 - 3.5 mm) and unwind however many strands to reduce it to what I want or in the case of a Term unwind some from the side channels and snip it off leaving the stuff across the top intact.
 

UA72Riddle

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My mkb started misfiring today and I don't know why :/

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Make sure your switch is good and tight...every part of it. Also pull out the bottom cap and make sure the contact points are clean.

The last trouble i had, my switch was coming loose.
 

UA72Riddle

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I have 2 mkb-ts. I got them in May, mid month was my bday. I aso have 2 stealth caps, 2 ody-ts bases. 2 Term-c's set up 3mm wick, 1ohm - 1.1 ohm, xtra 3mm under coil. grounded under wick, not ring.. No leaks, fluid flow open .5 (HALF) turn, to start. No leaking, nada, none. This is the most $$$ nice $$$ smooth $$$ functioning $$$ mech mod combo i have. I do have some other mods, GUS's, Stratus22, Sigelei mechs, even last week a Noble 1 hybrid. My mkb-ts's + everything i put on top, is the nicest, safest, great vape so far.. 4 me:2c:

I totally agree! I havent even touch my provari...well very little.....since I got the MKB/Term combo set up. Been fantastic!
 

dwcraig1

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Nope, ZAP straight onto the native connector

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I don't know how Zap's positive post is done in it's 510 connection but with the force available to the MKB's positive pin to push upward I can see potential for a hard short. This of coarse is quite dangerous, so you need to determine if it's a short or not.
 

bfrie

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I don't know how Zap's positive post is done in it's 510 connection but with the force available to the MKB's positive pin to push upward I can see potential for a hard short. This of coarse is quite dangerous, so you need to determine if it's a short or not.

So, loosen it?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 

dwcraig1

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The potential is there for the MKB's positive pin to push with such great force that the positive pin on an atomizer will get off to the side of it's 510 and short, look to see if that can be done. You need to make a determination if it's a short or an open connection. The above sounds to me like the most probable as the only other thing that I can think of would be the throw of the switch is adjusted to were the plunger is just barely able to contact the axis.
In the photo it's a little hard to see maybe but when the button is depressed there is still a small gap between the button head and the body of the switch.
1010057_628273757196852_1108385565_n.jpg

In my case according to the photo there is travel in the throw to spare but not much.
And does the misfires happen with other atomizers on your MKB?
 
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dwcraig1

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I'm not sure, I think it's caused by the floating pin in the z atty not connecting well with the mkb floating pin

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That is the area where my thoughts are also but I'm thinking hard short not bad connection.
But if shorted the button most likely would have some heat or the spring for the battery would deform so you just might be right.
 
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UA72Riddle

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dw, I finally did the modification to to the battery post grinding out the first couple of threads allowing the battery to collapse. I cant really say for sure that I see a difference, other than the mod never misfired with a kick for the first time. So that alone tells me it is getting a better connection.

The question I wonder though, is did we remove a safety feature of a collapsable hot spring? I dont really see it as a hot spring by the looks of the material, but I could be wrong.
 

dwcraig1

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dw, I finally did the modification to to the battery post grinding out the first couple of threads allowing the battery to collapse. I cant really say for sure that I see a difference, other than the mod never misfired with a kick for the first time. So that alone tells me it is getting a better connection.

The question I wonder though, is did we remove a safety feature of a collapsable hot spring? I dont really see it as a hot spring by the looks of the material, but I could be wrong.
I don't think it's missing anything safety wise, it's better tha just removing the spring.I had my spring screwed all the way down and compressed the remaining spring coils anyway so it has to be better than that.

What I do find on mine is every 2 days about I sand with fine Emory the part of the postive pin where it make contact with the atomizer.
It doesn't look bad but I swear I notice a difference in how hard it hits. I had to break myself of the habit of pushing it in with my finger as touching brass with your fingers is the biggest offender.
 
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