What about lectite on the threads that screw into the bottom of the tele tubes... Mine is loose ish and spins easily I don't want to tighten it too much to damage the spring :/
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btw i didnt get to the hardware store today, ill go tomorrow while im out and about. more info on bottom post screw to replace spring and also the locking washer.
"Conductive Glue" exists. I've seen it at radio smack. I've never worked with it tho. I believe it is meant to be a solder alternative.
Some weeks back I detailed the loctite job I did. Since then I cracked the switch open a few times to clean the hand-slime out. So now there is a residue of loctite only; no longer a "bonded" joint since I've separated the pin & button breaking the original bond. The reason I'm bringing this up is to point out two things: I experience no ill effects from the loctite because of the brass shim bridging the circuit. & the loctite residue is my favorite way to keep the switch from unscrewing. It's just enough extra grab to keep things in place, but since it's not "bonded" but rather just a friction maker, I can still unscrew if I have to. I'm thinking one might want to experiment with making a loctite dot on one side of the pin, and letting it dry/cure 100% (24hrs) before threading pieces together. Then the dot will be a little catchy and keep the switch body in tact. Anyone follow me? I'll be doing this to my recently acq'd 2nd MKB. For the record my GG's switch body carries the same annoying trait of sometimes coming loose. I've seen the "Official" GG fix: "just put a plier". Well I've done that and it doesn't last, so loctite for me. It's how my 1st MKB has been for a good while from only one application months ago. I NEVER worry about that switch because it's never shown the auto-unscrew feature since I applied the loctite. That's a little more than my 2 cents. I always re-read my posts & can't help noticing I sound opinion(h)ated. Sorry.
I could have sworn the switches in both of the GGTS's I had did the same thing.. It's been so long ago, I couldn't remember for certain. I understand about how the shim would bridge the circuit using Loctite. I've never had a hot button though, and was trying to avoid shimming. I think I'll look into it now. Seems the easiest solution to the problem.
I happened across a nice threaded rivet from an old belt with a round head, which the brass pin screws right into. It will need cut-down alittle, but will be worth doing sometime.
Did you screw the spring all the way down into the axis as far as it will go? Lot's of MKB-TS owners do not even use the spring at all.
I replaced the spring with one from a zen.. I'm just waiting to find a bolt/screw to put in it what are the dimensions of what you stumbled across?
I just use the stock spring all the way down to the bottom... Some of the folks who don't use the spring just have the battery right on the brass post. Regardless, I don't think you are tightening it as much as you should be.. It should be tight enough to hold the tubes firmly in place.
I tightened it down more it is firm now I was just nervous of messin it up haha
Here are pics of the rivet I found for the switch button. I just need to cut it down some.. BTW, the bottom tube is from the EHPro DHX-TS GGTS clone. If anyone is thinking the tubes are compatible with the MKB-TS... They're not. The threading is thin and rough. Totally different from the MKB. The bottom cap inner vent holes are smaller, and some are covered in plating. The tubes themselves are the same gauge, and looks almost identical to the MKB. The switch has a locking ring on the inside tube. The connector is improved, with an O-ring in the white insert that the firing pin rides into, which shouldn't leak. All GG threaded attys will fit.
Here are pics of the rivet I found for the switch button. I just need to cut it down some.. BTW, the bottom tube is from the EHPro DHX-TS GGTS clone. If anyone is thinking the tubes are compatible with the MKB-TS... They're not. The threading is thin and rough. Totally different from the MKB. The bottom cap inner vent holes are smaller, and some are covered in plating. The tubes themselves are the same gauge, and looks almost identical to the MKB. The switch has a locking ring on the inside tube. The connector is improved, with an O-ring in the white insert that the firing pin rides into, which shouldn't leak. All GG threaded attys will fit.
That button looks awesome!! I want one
lol ill have to start looking at random stuff to screw in there lol
that's beautiful.... !
where do you get a rivet like that?
where do you get a rivet like that?
Here are pics of the rivet I found for the switch button. I just need to cut it down some.. BTW, the bottom tube is from the EHPro DHX-TS GGTS clone. If anyone is thinking the tubes are compatible with the MKB-TS... They're not. The threading is thin and rough. Totally different from the MKB. The bottom cap inner vent holes are smaller, and some are covered in plating. The tubes themselves are the same gauge, and looks almost identical to the MKB. The switch has a locking ring on the inside tube. The connector is improved, with an O-ring in the white insert that the firing pin rides into, which shouldn't leak. All GG threaded attys will fit.
I was just looking at an old belt, and thought hmmmmm....
I would guess that a craft store or leather shop would have some. I don't know the thread size, but if you take the pin to those types of stores, you should find one that fits..I was just looking at an old belt, and thought hmmmmm....
Good call looks like I'm goin to michaels while I go to the hardware store tomorrow
if i dont find anything at the craft store im gonna go to thrift shops and look for old belts lol
Chicago Screws Assorted 6pk 1 4" 3 8" 1 2" Solid Brass and Nickel Plated Brass | eBay
ordered this to see if i cant figure out the size and put one of these in there
ordered this to see if i cant figure out the size and put one of these in there
man im a bum... i sat in my chair and vaped on my mkbts all day... lol really liking this thing!
Technonut you were saying you were wanting a lock washer small enough to fit inside the switch itself? ive been looking and i finally had the loosening switch problem as well.. so it made me realize you werent talking about the switch coming loose on the tube but in fact the switch itself... hmmm i hope we can figure this out lol sorry it took me until now to realize what you were talking about
lol sorry it took me until now to realize what you were talking aboutwell im getting the autocad software, gonna freshin up from college lol and try to design some stuff for dif. mods to enhance them.. like the mkb-ts.. its gonna take me a long while... but by the end of deployment i should have some ideas drawn up and then i can find some machinest to help me
OK folks here is the cause and the fix for the MKB-TS switch button pieces coming loose.
Of coarse heat due to high resistance is a big factor but this "unproven" (unproven cause I just did it) should take care of it now that I see what was going on.
When the plunger (part A) screwed into the button (part B) it doesn't bottom out inside the button, it just screws in till it runs out of threads and simply binds up. So I put inside the button (part B) a very small nut so when part A screws into B it tightens up against this added piece and the top of the button, so now it's actually tightening against something. Time will tell but I'm confident that it's going to do the job.
Of coarse heat due to high resistance is a big factor but this "unproven" (unproven cause I just did it) should take care of it now that I see what was going on.
When the plunger (part A) screwed into the button (part B) it doesn't bottom out inside the button, it just screws in till it runs out of threads and simply binds up. So I put inside the button (part B) a very small nut so when part A screws into B it tightens up against this added piece and the top of the button, so now it's actually tightening against something. Time will tell but I'm confident that it's going to do the job.
OK folks here is the cause and the fix for the MKB-TS switch button pieces coming loose.
Of coarse heat due to high resistance is a big factor but this "unproven" (unproven cause I just did it) should take care of it now that I see what was going on.
When the plunger (part A) screwed into the button (part B) it doesn't bottom out inside the button, it just screws in till it runs out of threads and simply binds up. So I put inside the button (part B) a very small nut so when part A screws into B it tightens up against this added piece and the top of the button, so now it's actually tightening against something. Time will tell but I'm confident that it's going to do the job.
Awesome dw thanks!!!
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