I'll let everyone know on Wednesday or maybe by even Tuesday (Rainbow or Tobeco that is)
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Thanks.
I'm curious to know how the threads are. I looked closely at the zoomed pic on the bottom, and it does look like DHX-TS switch locking-rings.
Sorta new here guys and I gots a question. Is the MKB-TS worth twice as much as the DHX-TS? I have been looking at both of them, and with the DHX-TS half the price I am wondering if the quality is really that bad? I will be using Ithaka Clones. Help me with my next purchase or purchases. Thanks for the help.
Sorta new here guys and I gots a question. Is the MKB-TS worth twice as much as the DHX-TS? I have been looking at both of them, and with the DHX-TS half the price I am wondering if the quality is really that bad? I will be using Ithaka Clones. Help me with my next purchase or purchases. Thanks for the help.[/QUOTE
On Wednesday I should receive my DHX-TS (oh well) from Venerable vaping, I'm pretty sure it will be the one made
I sent a message to Venerable Vaping asking if it is indeed the Rainbow model, we'll see what come first, my answer or my delivery.
Quick response, they are Tobeco.......
On Wednesday I will post about what well this one was made.
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I was saying $42 seems like a pretty big difference to the $80 dollars I have been able to find the Rainbow models for. Looking forward to your review.
It is going through the postal system now. I want to see this thing also, had I known I probably would have skipped it due to what Technonut had to say and he did say he thought it was the Tobeco, but until Wednesday.........
The air intake holes indicate to me that pictures of a Rainbow MKB-TS as well as it's name are being used to sell these (verified) EHPRO DHX-TS', oh how I wish that I could have paid with Paypal.Thanks.
But I was warned.
You may get lucky... Tobeco's QC is hit-and-miss. I'm hoping yours is good.
For all others thinking of ordering one.. I wouldn't.. unless the vendor is e-mailed, and asked to check / confirm the quality of the threading before it's packed and shipped.
I've been fiddling with my MKB-TS for a week now and the button still gets got has hell. I've made sure everything's clean, sanded all connections down, made sure the switch assembly is nice and tight but nothing's worked. Running it w/o a kick with an IGO-W at .8 dual ribbon. I'm using stormy's adapter (the stealth cap is coming sometime this week) but I've completely run out of ideas to fix the hot switch issue.
the fix is to put a brass shim in the button housing. Search this thread for shimming, ther's alot of info many pages back with photos, instructions and everything. I have 2 and had to shim them both, and there is instantly no heat. You'll need some brass shimming material that can be found at Ace Hardware, i don't recall the name of it, but it's all there back a ways in this thread. Good Luck..it's easy to do.
I've shimmed my GG's and even my Ghost Modder TS. Just GG is on the way... Thinking of terrorizing a GG thread when it gets here by publicly shimming and loctite'ing its switch.
Made a nice adustable center pin on an MKB the other night. It allows a flush body with an 18490. Will post pics in awhile.
Made a nice adustable center pin on an MKB the other night. It allows a flush body with an 18490. Will post pics in awhile.
Thanks for info! I searched all around town to find a place that carried these brass sheets, finally found a place that carries them: HobbyTown USA sells'em for about $4. Made myself a shim and the switch is significantly cooler, not hot but still gets warm - at least the mod is usable now, hopefully the stealth cap will be an end to all this madness.
My DHX-TS EHPRO GGTS clone has arrived, here's my take on it.
It comes in a nice box.
The threading on all pieces is on par with MKB-TS, my Hercules threaded right in on this one. The threads on the telescoping tube on the bottom end of it are different, I suspect they are the same as on the GG model.
It had some pretty sharp edges on the end of the upper tube, I sliced my thumb pretty good on it, then deburred it.
Buffed it, shimmed the button, modded the axis so the "gold" spring collapses inside it.
I measured the voltage between the head of the button and the base of Hercules and got much better results than my MKB-TS with all brass button.
Added the two missing o-rings.
If I was in the market for another GGTS clone I would go with this one (unless I could get the Rainbow MKB-TS around the same price.
The bottom cap is plated like on my first MKB-TS.
Hello everyone have been using my MBK-TS with Hercules (native connection) for a little while now. My button sometimes gets very hot i am going to stop by ACE HW to get a brass shim and hope that helps. Another thing i noticed is that my center post (i guess this is what you would call it)is bent. I was wondering if anyone knows if i could purchase another one somewhere. Lastly, after pushing my button it takes a sec or two to fire up (before it starts producing vapor). This does not happen when i have a fully charged battery, but after a few pulls (battery is still at like 90%) it takes longer to fire up. I was wondering if anyone else experiences this and has any suggestions. My batteries are brand new 18650 AW 1600.
Thanks,
Thanks,
When you are getting the brass shim, look for .114cm brass rod also. This is the size of the center pin, and you can cut your own.
Hope to post pics of my latest telescoping center pin design today, pending my understanding of bluetooth (file xfer).
Hope to post pics of my latest telescoping center pin design today, pending my understanding of bluetooth (file xfer).
So after seeing my SS/brass cooper shimmed DHX-TS button conducting better than my GM all brass button on my MKB-TS and greatly inspired by upsetters21's post I put a cooper shim in the GM button. Greatly improved now.I've shimmed my GG's and even my Ghost Modder TS. Just GG is on the way... Thinking of terrorizing a GG thread when it gets here by publicly shimming and loctite'ing its switch.
Made a nice adustable center pin on an MKB the other night. It allows a flush body with an 18490. Will post pics in awhile.
With a 0.7 Ω load each 0.1 volt loss is equal to about 1 watt, in the 2 Ω range it's equates to around 0.5 watts so these improvement become quite noticable during use.
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Here's the first set of pics for a center pin upgrade. It's a 6/32 brass screw, a threaded nylon hard bushing, a small piece of rubber tubing (soft bushing), an atty silicone, two nylon 6/32 washers, a 6/32 brass nut, and a 6/32 knurled brass nut. Pretty much in that order top to bottom. (phew)
The assembly is held in place w/o the use of the MKB's threading, using a compression seal by snugging the nylon busing against the rubber parts with the brass nut as the inner shoulder. This is intended for GGTS native connections only, and works with the Terminator standard and Polish Kayfun updgraded. I use a stealth cap when I want a 510.
The upper position to the atty is adjustable and the inner length is adjustable by changing the knurled nut position. Using an 18500/18490 battery the body is flush; no teletube visible.
Center Pin Bottom:
Center Pin Top:
It was fussy to install first time and get everything lined up and with the right compression, but once I locked a good position, I have been able to adjust the CP with a flat-head screw driver and have the insulators stay put.
Don't really want to take it all apart at the moment, but will post a break-down later. It'll never short, and can float a little if it has too.
The assembly is held in place w/o the use of the MKB's threading, using a compression seal by snugging the nylon busing against the rubber parts with the brass nut as the inner shoulder. This is intended for GGTS native connections only, and works with the Terminator standard and Polish Kayfun updgraded. I use a stealth cap when I want a 510.
The upper position to the atty is adjustable and the inner length is adjustable by changing the knurled nut position. Using an 18500/18490 battery the body is flush; no teletube visible.
Center Pin Bottom:
Center Pin Top:
It was fussy to install first time and get everything lined up and with the right compression, but once I locked a good position, I have been able to adjust the CP with a flat-head screw driver and have the insulators stay put.
Don't really want to take it all apart at the moment, but will post a break-down later. It'll never short, and can float a little if it has too.
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My DHX-TS EHPRO GGTS clone has arrived, here's my take on it.
It comes in a nice box.
The threading on all pieces is on par with MKB-TS, my Hercules threaded right in on this one. The threads on the telescoping tube on the bottom end of it are different, I suspect they are the same as on the GG model.
It had some pretty sharp edges on the end of the upper tube, I sliced my thumb pretty good on it, then deburred it.
Buffed it, shimmed the button, modded the axis so the "gold" spring collapses inside it.
I measured the voltage between the head of the button and the base of Hercules and got much better results than my MKB-TS with all brass button.
Added the two missing o-rings.
If I was in the market for another GGTS clone I would go with this one (unless I could get the Rainbow MKB-TS around the same price.
The bottom cap is plated like on my first MKB-TS.
Thanks for the info. Mine has arrived and it seems ok. Must polish as a Magoo will me sitting on top of it when usps can figure out how to use a map. On a side note, the Fogger looks great on a Magneto. Ditch the stainless wick and pull through some cotton. It is very nice in my opinion.
Micro with cotton Inside on above Fogger, 28 gauge Nichrome @ 1.0 Ω, 1/16" ID coil
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