MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

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cowfood

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Keep in mind that this is a clone of the Golden Greek Telescopic Storm which is meant to have a GGTS based atomizer but can be still used with others.
A GGTS connection is really heavy duty compared to any of the others.

Fair enough, I would say then without the adapter's now being sold for this, going into owning one of these requires a fair amount of understanding about the GG line of atomizers. Which cost twice as much as this device in some cases. They do offer a better connection than any 510 when threaded onto the device (current and stability), but I have yet to see a clone of one of these that is not 510 threaded. Either way they do offer options now so I see it as a solid device but misleading in it's function.

I think alot of people buying one of these think ohh wow, it's like a smoktech natural only better. Well, yes, it is, but, well, you see where I'm headed.

-CF
 

UA72Riddle

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I wouldn't agree with that....

On Stormy's site, it is clearly stated the adapter is needed for flush mount, and provides a link to it.

Most people buying this, are doing so knowing it is a GGTS clone and is part of a system that includes the term-c. Just as with the GGTS, it CAN be used with other atties, but is built with a solid connection option for the term/term-c...
 

Vego

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Works rather beautifully with all attys I throw at it. Gennys, drippers and term c.

With a fresh batt on my 2 other mechs, I'd just vape away on my .9ohm aga t2. With a fresh batt on tge MKB, if I'm not careful to tilt and make sure my wick is wet, it will burn the juiceI in an instant. Which tells me, without needing any equipment, it's supplying more current - less voltage drop. Highly satisfied, and I'm thrilled and relieved that this DV unit came with the normal floating pin connection.

Only slight flaw is the button is cheap. It's got a lot of play in its housing and rattles. The locking ring... well, I'm not gonna mince words - it's sucks. It's got a lot of play in it too, and contantly catches screwing in either direction. It's a cross-thread waiting to happen. Thats my only gripe.
 

upsetter21

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+1 Vego. You just surmised my entire experience with this Mod. Love the device overall, but the switch really bothered me at first. For me, a little locktite and the shim, plus careful positioning of all the fittings to get the right throw and I haven't looked back since.

I'm VERY happy with this device, but I'm totally comfortable modding and bought this device with the intention to make it an open build. That is to say, I don't want to experiment on my nicer Mods. This one is more replaceable, so I feel more bold about what I do to it. Currently I'm brainstorming on the positive post - I want a knurled adjustment on both types of caps. I've got a few ideas, I just need to execute and I'll be sure to share what I discover.

Anyone who has an MKB or is about to buy one should strongly consider picking up at least one GGTS Oddy base while they are in stock. This can be a very difficult item to obtain, and its resale value will remain at retail or more for years to come. 9 Euros +3 for shipping is chump change when your playing with big kid mods. Even if you never get an Oddy or a Term you may choose to part with you MKB some day, and it will sell faster with some nice accessories.

Personally I intend for mine to be a life-long object. In fact once I started thinking of that as my requirement for any new equipment I would buy, my entire vaping experience has changed.

I'd still award a great big blue winner ribbon to anyone who's able to find iSeason switches sold separately. A couple back up switches and it would truly last a lifetime.
 
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Vego

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+1 Vego. You just surmised my entire experience with this Mod. Love the device overall, but the switch really bothered me at first. For me, a little locktite and the shim, plus careful positioning of all the fittings to get the right throw and I haven't looked back since.

I'm VERY happy with this device, but I'm totally comfortable modding and bought this device with the intention to make it an open build. That is to say, I don't want to experiment on my nicer Mods. This one is more replaceable, so I feel more bold about what I do to it. Currently I'm brainstorming on the positive post - I want a knurled adjustment on both types of caps. I've got a few ideas, I just need to execute and I'll be sure to share what I discover.

Anyone who has an MKB or is about to buy one should strongly consider picking up at least one GGTS Oddy base while they are in stock. This can be a very difficult item to obtain, and its resale value will remain at retail or more for years to come. 9 Euros +3 for shipping is chump change when your playing with big kid mods. Even if you never get an Oddy or a Term you may choose to part with you MKB some day, and it will sell faster with some nice accessories.

Personally I intend for mine to be a life-long object. In fact once I started thinking of that as my requirement for any new equipment I would buy, my entire vaping experience has changed.

I'd still award a great big blue winner ribbon to anyone who's able to find iSeason switches sold separately. A couple back up switches and it would truly last a lifetime.

Indeed, upsetter. Btw, wasn't it you who found the brass rod to mod the post with... back a few pages? Those rods were tbe first thing I though about as I inspected the MKB adapter. It would be nice to have just one piece comming up all the way from the batt, right through the adapter and to the atty. The adapter pin is completely unattached... it just falls out if you tip it. (thought mine was broke at first). Though the 2 pins do float together and work fine, it would be better with one solid pin. Didn't you get something like this working? I gotta go back through this thread again... for like the millionth time :)

Also, can I expect the shim mod to reduce or eliminate the rattling along with aiding in the conductivity?
 

upsetter21

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The two pins of my switch wouldn't stay together at first; no misfires. I applied Locktite and I believe it insulated the pins from each other, so misfires ensued. I installed the brass shim & the misfires stopped & has been 99.999% reliable since. That tells me it was an electrical improvement. Wish I would have taken measurements, but my coils tell me all I need to know - I have only tiny voltage drop.

The shim also took out the play or rattle in the switch, and created a much smoother action. For me it was like a $5 sw turned into $25 one. I applied a single drop of fishing reel oil (the thin stuff, not the grease) into the body of the switch, hoping to reduce reactions between dissimilar metals since there are now 4 diff. metals making the switch: spring, body, brass pin, steel button, brass shim. This isn't the greatest stainless steel, as you can tell by holding a magnet to the device. It's fairly attracted, so there is still a decent amount of electrical reactivity in the metal & corrosion control should become part of your routine maintenance all over this device. It's not out of hand, but just pay attention to exposure to salty environments & flesh eating e-juice.

I also put a tiny drop of locktite onto the outside threads of the switch body, inside the MKB to prevent it from ever unscrewing completely unless effort is applied. BTW use medium strength locktite (blue color, NOT Red!). Although I have the small sw lockring very tight it has tried to skirt out on its own a few times. Loosing the switch would be a severe bummer.

There are two rod stock sizes that have been used successfully to replace the standard 1st issue floating center pin, during our lengthy discussion (my fault): 1/8" and 1.14mm diameters. The metric size was a little more dead on. I can't take credit for anything because it has always been an ability of a real GG to push the atty connector pin up into an adapter. So we mimicked that, and I think I was 2nd at that. There are certainly advantages to having a single solid connection. Namely, less volt drop, & mechanically/electrically more sound as its less likely to .... out & short with less segments.

OR... I'm not a fan of permanent modifications, but I'm in possession of a brass 6-32 female insert. I'm more than tempted to chuck the insulator that came in the MKB, and fill the void with epoxy putty encasing this brass insert, replacing the role of the unthreaded factory insert. I could then use a knurled-head brass 6-32 screw through the insert forming a new adjustable center post of the atty connector. Man, now that I wrote it down, it sounds like a better idea than ever. This would allow adjusting position on the fly w/o a tool and control the pressure on the atty, since I am finding my current pin hits my Terminator slightly off-center and I think it's breaking my seal. Also I'm paranoid about poking a hole in the top of my battery and blowing my face off. I should also mention the downside of a single long pin makes it less convenient to use cartos in the collection tank (no adapter). It's just another type of vape, and the MKB showcases the true possibility of a carto by airflow and excess juice management. You can push the pin back into the battery bay for a carto but I'm not fond of that much loosey metal inside with my batteries & I feel an elevated paranoia over a battery puncture that way.

You may use the original pin for a single solid connection - just push the SS pin out of an eGo connector, leaving the insulator inside, screw it on the MKB and push the MKB pin up watching to see the insulator seats ok. That's a really easy way to test out changes w/o dire consequences & figure if you want to get more radical. Please use a fuse, or a kick, or some kind of overcurrent protection if you choose to perform these mods since an 18650 is at the size I begin to fear what a battery can do. Seriously. Or at least have a multimeter that you know how to use for continuity and check for shorts BEFORE energizing. Sorry I come off opinionated all the time. Experience has made me this way.

Well, I hope my word splat helps answ. a few ques'ns. Eventually I think we'll get all this represented in photos & I see a sticky in our future. I'm only 1/2 done modding this modable mod. I'm out-of-town for the weekend, so see 'yall next week.

Info I'm after... Vego, can you post some close up pics of the MKB adapter? I'd like to see what you are saying about your pin falling out, etc.
 

dwcraig1

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I made the mistake of putting my MKB with Ithaka attached into the small compartment of the center console in my car while I was in Walmart. I didn't lock the button and it was firing for 30 min. at least, my car vaped the whole 4 ml. I got lucky, no real damage.
About 12 hours later and with a new build with the same set up I set off the main fire alarm of a quarter billion dollar condo complex, The vapor tripped a smoke alarm in an elevator lobby. I told the firemen and ask them not to say what it really was. I researched smoke alarms when I got home and fully understand how vapor could trip it. Again lucky.
I wonder what will happen tonight at work.
 
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Vego

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Okay upsetter, I've got pictures galore for you. Before I post them though, I gotta say I'm way out of you guys league with the modding. It's a good thing this device is working so well right out of the box... for me, at least.

Here is the position of the adapter pin as it's been positioned by a flush mount aga t2.
005_zps3ef7d17c.jpg

This is the MKB pin position with a flush mounted atty.
006_zps53cf4022.jpg

With the MKB pin pushed full up, you can just make out the adapter pin ready to fall out.
007_zpsb5fdaef3.jpg

Adapter pin is now unattached. Important to note is making sure the fatter end is placed bottom down, as if the thinner end is down, it would wobble and be less secure in the little tube at the base of the adapter.
008_zpsbb000aa6.jpg

With MKB pin pushed full up, adapter pin wobbles loosely.
010_zps9e250a13.jpg

Pressing down the adapter pin to prepare for screwing in an atty.
011_zps5e142f9a.jpg

Adapter ready to accept the atty for screwing on. It's centered and kinda firm seated because the wide end has just barely settled in the tube at the base of the adapter.
012_zps659d8d60.jpg

Position of MKB pin awaiting an atty to adjust to.
013_zps3191da43.jpg
 

villarino1k

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inganeer

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Yes, the 510 to ego adapter is long enough for the atty to sit some what flush to the top of the collection chamber. Adding another 510 / 510 shorty would allow the use of the brass topper.

so i just got my 510 to ego adapter, and im about ready to buy a terminator-c. i was thinking tho, how would the term c fit in the 510 to ego adapter? doesnt the term-c come as a 510?

oh and im only using the 510 to ego so i can remove the gold plated top part just like on post #18 here...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-mechanical-mod-ggts-clone-2.html#post9227669
 

Vego

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Thanks, dw... but, as of right now, I really don't have a problem with the way the adapter pin comes out. It's fully functional the way it is, it's hitting hard, and it's not at all difficult to position it. Like the picture shows, I just simply push it down a bit, it seats and centers, and then the atty goes on. No problems.

Although... I guess when I lose that thing, I'll be wondering why I didn't listen to you. :D
 

dwcraig1

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I'm at a loss as to what to say but I'll throw a couple things out there.
Back down the air control ring to make sure that's not what's locking it up and get some wide rubber bands to grip it with.
Twist the tubes to take the tension off the battery first ( and every time you add or remove the atomizer)
If it went on it certainly should come off, let us know what you find.

And after you get it apart wash that nasty smelling WD off with some dish liquid and hot water, maybe a couple of times.
 
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Technonut

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I had to jump on the bandwagon for the MKB-TS.... :) Nice SS construction and function for $70.00 @ Discount Vapers? Yep, I'm in. ;)

I ordered and received the stealth top cap and adapter first... The MKB-TS should arrive tomorrow. Anyway, I just happened to find a nice, robust, brass firing pin and sleeve in an old tube mod. (junk drawer) It fits the top cap great! Man, what a difference! It's like the floating pin in my EA Mod. :2cool: I took a few pics showing my modded pin compared to the small original: (click to enlarge)

 

villarino1k

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I'm at a loss as to what to say but I'll throw a couple things out there.
Back down the air control ring to make sure that's not what's locking it up and get some wide rubber bands to grip it with.
Twist the tubes to take the tension off the battery first ( and every time you add or remove the atomizer)
If it went on it certainly should come off, let us know what you find.

And after you get it apart wash that nasty smelling WD off with some dish liquid and hot water, maybe a couple of times.
I gave up man. I tried everything. Those rubber pot holders, large rubber used for like surgery rehab patients, soaked it overnight in WD40, and my last resort was a wrench and towel all with no luck. The wrench even scratched it up a but but I still woulda been happy if it came off. Nothing. At least it isn't a complete fail. I got one of those stealth caps and I'm just using it with that. The look just isn't the same without the top parts which is why I bought it. Oh well, better than a total loss :/
Here it is with the stealth cap...

16DB460D-4369-45A8-9F11-C233D1AF803F-20483-00000887F8C4E03A_zpsf6cf9c2f.jpg
 
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