Yo Vego, I'm very opinionated in this area so naturally I'll blab my face off about it as if to make you see it my way. Since I know this about myself, and can't seem to control it, I no longer feel bad when people take some advice and leave the rest.
Each of the different metals have there own individual considerations, and one must also consider how the different metals affect each other. Two diff. metals touching one another is not the same as a single metal standing on its own. This is because all metals carry varying degrees of electrical charge. Two dissimilar charges making contact creates a tiny current, that accelerates the effects of corrosion.
Fortunately, the MKB is built primarily of some "less reactive" metals: brass, and stainless steel. So ultimately the maintenance is low.
So, the Noalox's primary purpose is to prevent the reaction between two dissimilar touching. It also helps lubricate threads to prevent galling and seizing. It also happens to be conductive. However to even begin to think it's conductive more so than solid metal is a complete misnomer. There has been way too much promise made about "tuning up" mech mods with paste. The true reason people see better performance after pasting up is because they effectively closed the gaps in the fittings of loose tolerances. This effect wears out in a week or two after a good deal of the noalox from the tube has now evaporated - what's left behind is disgusting.
On that note, I can't recommend noalox on the MKB. Just read an MSDS for the stuff, and you'll realize it doesn't belong on things you handle with your hands and face. Also the MKB has tight enough tolerances and enough thread depth to make enough contact, that noalox should be a minimal and temporary improvement.
Do however lube your threads with petroleum jelly. There is a fancy kind that is FDA approved and has PTFE. I'll have to dig out the bottle to tell you exactly.
Number one consideration for electrical conductivity is clean, shiny, u-oxidized, uncoated or greesed, fresh metal. ANYTHING else in between a joint between metals causes resistance.
About twice a week, I take a small pocket nife, like "The Oldtimer", and scrape the brown off my brass switch. Then I sand the bottom cap axis. I would do similar with the center post, but I keep replacing mine outright. Just lightly scraping the brown off always kicks the MKB back into gear.
Otherwise just keep it clean and don't expose it to salt water.
It's like having one of my long sold GGTS back, and not having to worry about scratching it up. 
I'm getting thick clouds of vape, and the flavor of my tobacco blends are better than I ever had in 2 1/2 years of vaping. VERY clean. This stuff wicks fast too, and is a breeze to build. 
