MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

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upsetter21

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I have not dremmel'd my channels, but I have read all about it from long ago thanks to the venerable DW posting on this forum. Since I spent a year trying to end gurgle, I saw no reason to OPEN anything up MORE. I think if I were using silica I'd consider the dremmel trick.

Seems I get the best vape on the Terms with AWG 32 Kanthal wrapped dual coil. I think I'm using the "highlander" method(?): two res wires paralleled, and two non-res traces like this -<=>- Then I wrap 5 or 6 times; about 1.5" of side-to-side res-wire, and I usually get 0.9Ohms.

I wrap a small #400 SS mesh tube to go into the ceramic cup, w/ all the edges folded inwards to the roll so there aren't as many wild hairs. Then I thread 4 pieces of cotton yarn into the mesh tube. I bring two strands down the ceramic channels, and trim two strands just wide enough to fill the horizontal portion of the ceramic.

That's been my best setup so far, after trying a lot with smaller gauge res-wire, just seems 32 behaves best as you said DW on the instant vape rather than requiring a warm-up.

In case anyone hasn't heard yet... the smaller the wire diameter, the greater the resistance per length. The larger gauge, the less resistance.

Always consider watts! That is the resultant of voltage and resistance. P=(ExE)/R

Using DW as an example... He metered 0.7ohms, and the battery's assumed (or rated) voltage is 3.7. So power(or watts)=(3.7x3.7)/0.7=19.56watts! Damn that's hot! In truth a fresh battery would have more like 4v and drops as low as 3.2v when discharged. If you need dead on measurements, you would take time to meter the battery & use the measured voltage instead, and also consider volt-drop across the Mod. Getting the mod volt drop is a little more difficult because batteries' characteristics can change under load conditions. This is why I generally disregard anyone's volt drop claims unless they have detailed EXACTLY how they performed testing.

A meter can also be used to figure out your res-wire lengths, but you may notice a slight increase in resistance after coiling. This is similar to slowing water running in a hose by coiling up the hose. This effect is more noticeable on smaller gauge (thinner diameter) wire.

I know this is common knowledge for some, but I think it's worth repeating over and over until every vaper starts using Ohms or Watts law instead of following around often erroneous performance claims that get thrown around by manufacturers, vendors, and over-zealous forum users.

DW: I gotta ask you, since our tastes have found us in the same places a few times... What is your all time favorite Tobacco e-juice???

I started thinking, if you have a tobacco juice at close to 20watts w/o burning I need a bottle of what you're having. I'm on Copper Creek Houseblend because it tastes good, but it hates anything above 8watts!

Ok, I'm back to 32 gauge dual coils @ 0.7 ohms and my initial drag each time is good, no more warm up drag.
About 18 watts @ 0.8 and about 20.5 @ 0.8, not much difference in the watts but what a difference in the vape, I contribute it to wire size, the 32 is just more responsive I guess.
 
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upsetter21

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Doing what DW?

So don't listen to me about Oddy's & their clones - I'm gurgling again. I don't know .... All was good, then I had to peak into the tank to see if I needed a re-fill. I didn't, and put the top cap on, and gurgle, gurgle, endless gurgle. I'm about to give up... I've tried EVERYTHING!

Upsetter does have issues.:confused:
 

dwcraig1

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I've thought about doing this before, whom ever is just going to have to believe what I'm saying is true.
I'm already doing it now.
So far it's going exactly as I expected.

OK, in all fairness for a good experiment I used my Terminator-C because the juice is above the top of the ceramic where the wick and coil would normally be. But this Terminator-C has no wick or coil and the side channels are widened and the channel across the top is lowered with rounded edges at the corners.
This Terminator-C is filled to the top of the upper tank so it's full. The juice is 90% PG and really thin.
I'm saving the best for last, Mouthpiece is 3 turns open and I have been drawing on it just as if it was functional,no gurgles, no drips, I even removed it from the mod and pressed the 510 on a paper towel and nothing.

So as I have said many many time, if you have a leak/ flooding/ gurgling and it's not because you had it open and filled it you can bet the farm on an air leak at the tank top.
So what I'm trying to say here is channel size and wick size doesn't directly have much to do with leaking. Now if you have a leak of coarse a tightly stuffed channel would cause it to leak slower.(I took at least 30 drags on it while typing this, probably a lot more)

I took the GGTS base off and put on a 510 just in case that I was wrong and it would have made a mess of my MKB

Let me add this, I'm pretty sure that if I took some really heavy drags on it it would have pulled the juice into the ceramic but I just did it in a "normal" way. I by no means went easier on it.
 
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upsetter21

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Still subscribing to your logic DW... I'm using your O-rings! They seal well enough to prevent me from turning my juice-flow control unless I back off the top cap a little. What I don't understand is the inconsistency I repeatedly experience. I never know when the next gurgle will occur. I'm having better luck communicating with the dead.
 

dwcraig1

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Still subscribing to your logic DW... I'm using your O-rings! They seal well enough to prevent me from turning my juice-flow control unless I back off the top cap a little. What I don't understand is the inconsistency I repeatedly experience. I never know when the next gurgle will occur. I'm having better luck communicating with the dead.
I had a problem with my Ithaka, the problem you're talking about, naturally I thought it was the mouthpiece o-ring just like I would expect on the Term. My o-rings from COV are still a long way off so I ordered 50 from Ebay. I get them and put in the new one, still gurgles.
It ended up being the one on the top of the tank under the tank top, I just happened to have a couple new ones from an after market Oddy tank. Fixed, never gurgled again. Maybe swap the one on the base with the one on the upper tank on yours if you don't have any spares
 

dwcraig1

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I follow your logic DW - I've swapped around O-rings so many times there all mixed up. I'll keep trying tho...
Do you have a clear tank on it, the bubbles should tell you something
You should only see bubble coming out from under the mouthpiece when you take a drag and the juice you vape gets replaced.
If your getting periodic bubbles and your just looking at it then it's leaking ( and it can't leak with out air entering first)
 

upsetter21

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Yes & Yes. I know what you mean about the bubbles. When my Term's OK, the only air comes in from the MP after a drag and they float their way into the tank. At the present time I'm using steel tanks, because I only have a menthol juice left right now. I'll set up some experiments with water and a clear tank, see what happens. Thanks.

Do you have a clear tank on it, the bubbles should tell you something
You should only see bubble coming out from under the mouthpiece when you take a drag and the juice you vape gets replaced.
If your getting periodic bubbles and your just looking at it then it's leaking ( and it can't leak with out air entering first)
 

Rule62

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I got the new top cap from Stormys, I can confirm it does have an adjustable brass pin. Mod is much smaller with it, worth the $25 imho. with an orbtronic HD 2900mAh @4.17v vpltage drop is to 4.04v :)

I've been using the stealth cap from Stormy's for a few days now. I like it, and the mod looks good. The stock top on the MKB-TS looks cool, with the gold ring and all; but I only use genesis RBAs, so I had no need for the air control.
 

Slartibartfast

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OK, in all fairness for a good experiment I used my Terminator-C because the juice is above the top of the ceramic where the wick and coil would normally be. But this Terminator-C has no wick or coil and the side channels are widened and the channel across the top is lowered with rounded edges at the corners.
This Terminator-C is filled to the top of the upper tank so it's full. The juice is 90% PG and really thin.
I'm saving the best for last, Mouthpiece is 3 turns open and I have been drawing on it just as if it was functional,no gurgles, no drips, I even removed it from the mod and pressed the 510 on a paper towel and nothing.

So as I have said many many time, if you have a leak/ flooding/ gurgling and it's not because you had it open and filled it you can bet the farm on an air leak at the tank top.
So what I'm trying to say here is channel size and wick size doesn't directly have much to do with leaking. Now if you have a leak of coarse a tightly stuffed channel would cause it to leak slower.(I took at least 30 drags on it while typing this, probably a lot more)

I took the GGTS base off and put on a 510 just in case that I was wrong and it would have made a mess of my MKB

Let me add this, I'm pretty sure that if I took some really heavy drags on it it would have pulled the juice into the ceramic but I just did it in a "normal" way. I by no means went easier on it.

Just had to throw my 2 cents in here...he's right. I use some super thick ... %100 VG juice so I open my juice control more that most people. We are talking more than 360...sometimes if I'm going full steamboat I think I go up to 2 full 360 rotations and still no gurgles. Unless something is broken/cracked/warped I'm %99.99 sure any leaking people have is from a bad seal on the top nut. It's like holding liquid in a straw by holding your finger on the top of it...it's all about that top seal.
 

upsetter21

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Sorry if this thread is a little hi-jacked by Terminator discussion; it related to the MKB in that it's a sought after combo for the Terminator...

After testing all kinds of rigs with water, I have a renewed sense of the importance of that top O-ring of the Terminators. I could understand the concept all along - the vacuum must be established, just as one can hold water in a straw by plugging one end. However; I didn't comprehend just how temperamental that seal can be. It deserves to be tested with water BEFORE going for a coil/wick setup.

I had one tank build that couldn't hold fluid no matter what. I inspected the O-ring, and saw no visible signs that it could be worn out or bad in any way. I decided to replace it anyway, and the problem halted. My theory is that some O-rings have a crappy seem from their mold. Don't really know; but needless to say I chucked the leaky gasket, never to be seen or accidentally used again.

My Terminator builds now start with a "Seal Check". Once I'm confident everything mates well, and seals up for water, then build the coil. I'm just not sure all this worrying is worth it; hope to keep this hobby no more fussy than roll-your-own-analogs.
 

IcyX

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Terminator-C with GGTS base
936418_613807731976788_1949483681_n.jpg

This is my most neglected Term (was maybe)

Is that a stock center post on that term?
 

Jeremy Evans

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I've been using the stealth cap from Stormy's for a few days now. I like it, and the mod looks good. The stock top on the MKB-TS looks cool, with the gold ring and all; but I only use genesis RBAs, so I had no need for the air control.

(DISREGARD)Does it effect the voltage drop at all, or is it just a cap and the standard post still is what is contacting the atty?

What was the voltage drop before with standard cap?
 
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