Hey everyone I've been vaping for a little while now on my coils that I have and out of nowhere my whole mod gets hot from top to bottom it's a protected high drain 18650 LG anAndy mod is a fuhattan m6 americlone and my atty is a IGO-W I'm not sure what kind of build I'm running but it looks like 26 gauge or smaller with 8 wraps and the coils are wrapped with 2 wires each a friend set it up for me because I asked for a good build and just everything gets hot even my battery gets hot I need help fixing this I don't want to blow my face off but I haven't had this problem before and I had the building for about 2 weeks
mod getting Hot
- Thread starter Hunter Ruelas
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Let's review. Equipment getting hot. Little to no experience. No ohm checker or multimeter. No dirty dish towel. Do you have insurance?...
Couple of things.
Firstly, if you aren't using a regulated device (hell, even with one) you should really build your own coils. It's not your friends face sucking on an unregulated, possibly shorted coil, it's yours. So protect it by building your own coils and being completely sure of the entire setup.
Secondly, you should know the resistance of the coil. Perhaps your friend told you? Regardless, find out! Safety first.
Ok, now to the details.
You sound like there is a parallel build in there (coil contains 2 wires run together the entire way). That means there is a lot of metal mass in there, creating lots of heat and further holding that heat. This could be your issue.
The Igo W is a good device but unless you modify it, there is no where near enough airflow to run that sort of coil. This could mean that the atty is getting too hot and then spreading to the mod.
If your mod is getting hot in particular areas, then that is a big concern. Like, if you fire it cold and the whole device stays cool except/I] the button, do not vape.
You are placing yourself at risk by trusting others to build what you vape. Don't use the device until you know the resistance and that there aren't any shorts. If there aren't, then I would focus on making sure the mod itself isn't causing the issue.
Stay safe.
Firstly, if you aren't using a regulated device (hell, even with one) you should really build your own coils. It's not your friends face sucking on an unregulated, possibly shorted coil, it's yours. So protect it by building your own coils and being completely sure of the entire setup.
Secondly, you should know the resistance of the coil. Perhaps your friend told you? Regardless, find out! Safety first.
Ok, now to the details.
You sound like there is a parallel build in there (coil contains 2 wires run together the entire way). That means there is a lot of metal mass in there, creating lots of heat and further holding that heat. This could be your issue.
The Igo W is a good device but unless you modify it, there is no where near enough airflow to run that sort of coil. This could mean that the atty is getting too hot and then spreading to the mod.
If your mod is getting hot in particular areas, then that is a big concern. Like, if you fire it cold and the whole device stays cool except/I] the button, do not vape.
You are placing yourself at risk by trusting others to build what you vape. Don't use the device until you know the resistance and that there aren't any shorts. If there aren't, then I would focus on making sure the mod itself isn't causing the issue.
Stay safe.
Thank you so much and I have moddified airholes but yeah it's no specific spots just the whole mod from atty to button I'm going to take it to a vape shop tomorrow and get it rebuilt by people who know what they are doing and make sure it's at a safe resistance I found out that as long as I don't chain vape it's fine
Welcome,
First off I come off as harsh, my apologies for that.
Put the mod down and back away from that device, simply put its not safe.
Before you trust anyone, ensure that it is up to your standards of quality. I'm saying this because your friend isn't the one that will have their house burnt down or god forbid missing parts of fingers/hands should something happen. Never take for granted that it is right just because someone says it is, check yourself.
Learn ohms law and how it relates to the limitations of your equipment, always give yourself wiggle room when factoring in amp draw on your batteries, its better to error on the side of caution with batteries then be wrong (Trust me on this).
Do your research, there is enough information out on the web on safe coil building practices and mechanical mod use, breakdown and maintenance that you should have no trouble finding it.
VV/VW devices have come a long way, so I'd suggest in to looking in to them. Even a 50 watt device will crank out enough power to drive anything you want to vape on it, its safe for those wishing to bridge in to mechanicals as it has fail safes for dead short issues and really they are over all nice (I use one even though I've got 4 mechanicals sitting at the moment that i could use and I've been vaping for 6 years now, RBA's for 5 of those years).
As I said not trying to sound harsh but always take safety first with any Ecig/PV, its you that will end up getting hurt if something goes wrong and not your friend. Also some keen advice and I'm more then sure it will and or has been mentioned, GET AN OHM METER, I can't stress that enough to test before firing up your RBA. Glad that it wasn't worse as it could have been, vape safe and let us know if we can help out in any way further
I'll give you one last freebie here, anyone that says "Super low sub ohm is safe" is wrong, it may be safe for some that are running super high end equipment and 40+ amp sustained batteries however the typical Brick and Mortar shops will not carry this so best to not venture down that road. Keep it above .5 ohm and up you should be fine with most of what is available for purchase.
First off I come off as harsh, my apologies for that.
Put the mod down and back away from that device, simply put its not safe.
Before you trust anyone, ensure that it is up to your standards of quality. I'm saying this because your friend isn't the one that will have their house burnt down or god forbid missing parts of fingers/hands should something happen. Never take for granted that it is right just because someone says it is, check yourself.
Learn ohms law and how it relates to the limitations of your equipment, always give yourself wiggle room when factoring in amp draw on your batteries, its better to error on the side of caution with batteries then be wrong (Trust me on this).
Do your research, there is enough information out on the web on safe coil building practices and mechanical mod use, breakdown and maintenance that you should have no trouble finding it.
VV/VW devices have come a long way, so I'd suggest in to looking in to them. Even a 50 watt device will crank out enough power to drive anything you want to vape on it, its safe for those wishing to bridge in to mechanicals as it has fail safes for dead short issues and really they are over all nice (I use one even though I've got 4 mechanicals sitting at the moment that i could use and I've been vaping for 6 years now, RBA's for 5 of those years).
As I said not trying to sound harsh but always take safety first with any Ecig/PV, its you that will end up getting hurt if something goes wrong and not your friend. Also some keen advice and I'm more then sure it will and or has been mentioned, GET AN OHM METER, I can't stress that enough to test before firing up your RBA. Glad that it wasn't worse as it could have been, vape safe and let us know if we can help out in any way further
I'll give you one last freebie here, anyone that says "Super low sub ohm is safe" is wrong, it may be safe for some that are running super high end equipment and 40+ amp sustained batteries however the typical Brick and Mortar shops will not carry this so best to not venture down that road. Keep it above .5 ohm and up you should be fine with most of what is available for purchase.
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Welcome to the forum Hunter, It's good that you are asking the right questions and Lord Cardigan made some good points.
Can you clarify the battery you are using? You said a protected 18650 LG battery right? Are these the pink ones ICR18650D1's?
The only ones I know that are protected are ICR and these should only be used in low drain applications like flashlights and not for vaping.
You need to be using a high drain IMR or IMR hybrid battery. If the batteries you are using are the LG HE2 or HE4 then that's better, but remember that each battery you use has a specific limit to how low of a resistance you can vape at.
This is why you should at the very least know exactly what resistance your build is and ideally, build it yourself.
You should always know the resistance of your build, the amps that it will pull from the battery and the amp limit of the battery you are using and make sure you have a safety margin.
Can you clarify the battery you are using? You said a protected 18650 LG battery right? Are these the pink ones ICR18650D1's?
The only ones I know that are protected are ICR and these should only be used in low drain applications like flashlights and not for vaping.
You need to be using a high drain IMR or IMR hybrid battery. If the batteries you are using are the LG HE2 or HE4 then that's better, but remember that each battery you use has a specific limit to how low of a resistance you can vape at.
This is why you should at the very least know exactly what resistance your build is and ideally, build it yourself.
You should always know the resistance of your build, the amps that it will pull from the battery and the amp limit of the battery you are using and make sure you have a safety margin.
Listen to BlkWlf and Shady on this one -- set it down for the moment.
Most likely you're going to have to clean the mod thoroughly, including all the threading, and the heat is because no one bothered to do it at the start -- but at the moment there are too many variables for us to be able to help you well. e.g. if the battery is being overdrawn... well let's hope that isn't the case. We need to know what it is. We also need to need the ohm of your coil, and hope it isn't borderline touching the deck, etc.
Here's two good links with a pile of information for you to go through:
www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gen...op-reference-shop-new-experienced-vapers.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...4-7-information-resources-your-first-rba.html
Most likely you're going to have to clean the mod thoroughly, including all the threading, and the heat is because no one bothered to do it at the start -- but at the moment there are too many variables for us to be able to help you well. e.g. if the battery is being overdrawn... well let's hope that isn't the case. We need to know what it is. We also need to need the ohm of your coil, and hope it isn't borderline touching the deck, etc.
Here's two good links with a pile of information for you to go through:
www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gen...op-reference-shop-new-experienced-vapers.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...4-7-information-resources-your-first-rba.html
You've got some very good responses here already Hunter. I just want to add my opinion that you should stop vaping this setup now (if you have not already) because it is not safe.
Right now.
Start again when you know what is safe and how to do that.
OP, please take the knowledgeable advice presented to you by BlkWolfMidnight and InTheShade. If I were you, I would put the mod down immediately and read Baditudes blogs: E-Cigarette Forum - Baditude - Blogs
These blogs will hopefully show you how dangerous your current predicament is and how to prevent such situations in the future. Please be careful. If you understand his blogs, you won't touch that mod again until you have and know everything you need.
These blogs will hopefully show you how dangerous your current predicament is and how to prevent such situations in the future. Please be careful. If you understand his blogs, you won't touch that mod again until you have and know everything you need.
The HE2's/4's are 20A I believe but that means nothing if you don't know your build resistance. Do you happen to have a multimeter laying around anywhere? We just want ya to be safe man.
OK thanks for that - it's a good quality 20 amp continuous battery with the safer chemistry (assuming it's genuine). This means you should be in the safe zone at a resistance of 0.3 ohms and above.
It it were my build, I would probably stick around 0.5ohms and above though - but I am cautious to the point of being over cautious when it comes to my batteries.
Good luck Hunter, I know it's a lot of information to assimilate, but you've got some good links, some great advice and you seem to be wanting to learn - so it's all on you now!
Hum, danger, danger will robinson
Good take away from this one...
Don't always believe that the battery you've got is correctly labled and or sold.
Good example
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/theshorelinemarket/LG-18650-2600.pdf
The battery that you've got is 1.5 ah discharge rate, not exactly safe for use in a mechanical mod. It also should be gray and not yellow, so there is an issue here as to is the battery you've got really properly labeled, more then likely not. Like I mentioned in previous posts "When in doubt, check it out". Trust me we are all aware of mis labeled products in the market place, unfortunately the consumer is the one that pays the price in the end so glad that you posted that here.
Sorry, forgot to add something that will help in the future.
On my battery is says
LGDBHE41865- Serial number of the battery usually, you can google this to find more info and pictures usually for verification.
N295J224A7 134- haven't a clue, could be a UID (Unique Identifier) but not sure myself
And it's yellow - color, it should match or somewhat match to what the manufacture website has on it.
Good take away from this one...
Don't always believe that the battery you've got is correctly labled and or sold.
Good example
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/theshorelinemarket/LG-18650-2600.pdf
The battery that you've got is 1.5 ah discharge rate, not exactly safe for use in a mechanical mod. It also should be gray and not yellow, so there is an issue here as to is the battery you've got really properly labeled, more then likely not. Like I mentioned in previous posts "When in doubt, check it out". Trust me we are all aware of mis labeled products in the market place, unfortunately the consumer is the one that pays the price in the end so glad that you posted that here.
Sorry, forgot to add something that will help in the future.
On my battery is says
LGDBHE41865- Serial number of the battery usually, you can google this to find more info and pictures usually for verification.
N295J224A7 134- haven't a clue, could be a UID (Unique Identifier) but not sure myself
And it's yellow - color, it should match or somewhat match to what the manufacture website has on it.
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Oh, and for the record, welcome mate!
I know it could be a little discouraging to sign up and be told "NEWB STOP b4 U REDSHIRT URSELF", but everyone here has your best interest at heart and wants you to be around here helping newbs one day. You can handle this mod, there's just going to be some serious learning curve. If you get stuck on anything (properly cleaning it, etc.) ask and you shall receive, usually from someone procrastinating on important things.
Edit: Also, good points in the post above mine, but I think he mixed up the specific battery.
© 2015 drunkenbatman
I know it could be a little discouraging to sign up and be told "NEWB STOP b4 U REDSHIRT URSELF", but everyone here has your best interest at heart and wants you to be around here helping newbs one day. You can handle this mod, there's just going to be some serious learning curve. If you get stuck on anything (properly cleaning it, etc.) ask and you shall receive, usually from someone procrastinating on important things.
Edit: Also, good points in the post above mine, but I think he mixed up the specific battery.
© 2015 drunkenbatman
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Yeah, I think he accidentally linked and looked at the B3 instead of the HE4.
Yeah, I just double checked this too after BlackWolfs post. OP, if you google this during your research, ignore anything saying 35A/30A or such, it's 20A continuous.
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Ops, and another lesson, to error happens rofl.
Here are the proper specs, and it is yellow
tem Condition / Note Specification
Capacity Std. charge / discharge 2500mAh
Nominal Voltage Average of Std. Discharge 3.60V
Standard Charge Constant current 1250mA
Constant voltage 4.20V
End current(Cut off) 50mA
Fast Charge Constant current 4000mA (4 amp)
Constant voltage 4.20V
End current(Cut off) 100mA
Max. Charge Voltage 4.20V
Max. Charge Current 4000mA (4 amp)
Standard Discharge Constant current 500mA
End voltage(Cut off) 2.5V
Fast Discharge Constant current 10000mA, 20000mA
End voltage(Cut off) 2.5V
Max. Discharge Current For continuous discharge 20000mA (20 amp)
Weight Approx. Max. 50.0G
Operating Temperature Charge 0 ~ 50°C
Discharge -20~ 75°C
Storage Temperature 1 month -20 ~ 60°C
3 months -20 ~45°C
1 year -20 ~ 20°C
Here are the proper specs, and it is yellow
tem Condition / Note Specification
Capacity Std. charge / discharge 2500mAh
Nominal Voltage Average of Std. Discharge 3.60V
Standard Charge Constant current 1250mA
Constant voltage 4.20V
End current(Cut off) 50mA
Fast Charge Constant current 4000mA (4 amp)
Constant voltage 4.20V
End current(Cut off) 100mA
Max. Charge Voltage 4.20V
Max. Charge Current 4000mA (4 amp)
Standard Discharge Constant current 500mA
End voltage(Cut off) 2.5V
Fast Discharge Constant current 10000mA, 20000mA
End voltage(Cut off) 2.5V
Max. Discharge Current For continuous discharge 20000mA (20 amp)
Weight Approx. Max. 50.0G
Operating Temperature Charge 0 ~ 50°C
Discharge -20~ 75°C
Storage Temperature 1 month -20 ~ 60°C
3 months -20 ~45°C
1 year -20 ~ 20°C
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