what does removing the top pullup resistor do? also i noticed you used a 200uf cap, would it make a difference or not? ive got a couple 16v 22uf caps ive salvaged for my first build, says 25v but im going to have 12v input so i think the 16v's will be safe
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gave this a try tonight. not as smooth as i hoped... it all got hot... have the 22uf caps across vin &gnd and across vout & gnd... momentary switch between vin & on/off... 20k pot, inner leg to Vadj, outer two to Vout and gnd
ill read up and try it tomorrow... gettin tired
ill read up and try it tomorrow... gettin tired
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ok knew i was missing something... the pull-up resistor you replaced with the 100k pull-down resistor too keep it OFF instead of ON until the switch is hit. F_up #1. but i dont think the module should have gotten that hot because of that. maybe the cheap little pot i used shorted out... gotta step back and pin point F_up #2, and #3 and so on. learning curve started. guess i could have got a kit from madvapes, but i think thats cheating 
also, looking back through.. the diagram you drew up, looks like the pull-up is just removed, and the 100k pull-down is put in line with the switch? i cant read those schematics, try to and can sorta make sense of them, sometimes...
also... looks like im talking to myself again... ill talk myself through it eventually
also, looking back through.. the diagram you drew up, looks like the pull-up is just removed, and the 100k pull-down is put in line with the switch? i cant read those schematics, try to and can sorta make sense of them, sometimes...
also... looks like im talking to myself again... ill talk myself through it eventually
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im just playing with this with parts i have on hand, so no Vmeter needed.
it looks like the 1k resistor goes from one leg of the switch back to GND?
also i used 22uf 16v caps, im not sure what the different uf means myself
thanks alot raidy
it looks like the 1k resistor goes from one leg of the switch back to GND?
also i used 22uf 16v caps, im not sure what the different uf means myself
thanks alot raidy
i just put a 10k resistor in place of the 1k, and removed the pull up resistor, and same thing. gets hot. would trying this w/o an atty connector in the circuit cause that, or more likely the pot im using? i just bought some of the ones they link on satistronics, but itll be atleast a week to get them
dang... atleast i got 9 more and at $0.48 its not a bad hit. ill have to see if i can scavenge a resistor, i dont have any in that range. thanks alot raidy
will my 16v 22uf caps also need to be changed out, or will those work?
will my 16v 22uf caps also need to be changed out, or will those work?
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raidy thanks alot for your time helping out this amateur... i did get this working. im almost embarrassed to say what the issue was, but here goes. I HAD THE + & - MIXED UP ON THE BATTERY CONNECTION i was using a 9v to test it and i assumed the larger terminal was positive. took it out and looked over everything... i feel so stupid
making a trip to rat shack to get a case to hold it. bought a altoids smalls pack yesterday, but its not quite big enough to fit it all in
thanks raidy and illuxion
i was using a 9v to test it and i assumed the larger terminal was positive. took it out and looked over everything... i feel so stupidmaking a trip to rat shack to get a case to hold it. bought a altoids smalls pack yesterday, but its not quite big enough to fit it all in
thanks raidy and illuxion
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Here's a place that has them cheep. 32 cents a piece if you buy 20.
SuntekStore.com - mp2307
Other goodies on this site, it's a bit tough to navegate this site, but look around, good luck.
I have some on the slow boat, should be here in a couple weeks.
Thanks for the info everyone,
SuntekStore.com - mp2307
Other goodies on this site, it's a bit tough to navegate this site, but look around, good luck.
I have some on the slow boat, should be here in a couple weeks.
Thanks for the info everyone,
I was wondering if anyone had taken this module and removed the 2307 chip and created a much simple and smaller circuit? I'm sure there is quite a few components on that board that are not needed for our application. Also, has anyone found a schematic of the module? All I could find is the DS for the chip.
I will be trying it when they get here (no big monetary loss if I mess it up). I'll post results,,, success or failure.
I will be trying it when they get here (no big monetary loss if I mess it up). I'll post results,,, success or failure.
Thanks NicksVap3,
Thats some of the stuff that's in the datasheet. It seems that most of the circuitry is there to minimize any ripple in the output, which I don't care about. I'll breadboard the sucker and see what kind of results I get without the inductor and caps.
It's been a LONG time since I was in an electronics class, but I think I remember enough to keep from blowing myself up. LOL
Thats some of the stuff that's in the datasheet. It seems that most of the circuitry is there to minimize any ripple in the output, which I don't care about. I'll breadboard the sucker and see what kind of results I get without the inductor and caps.
It's been a LONG time since I was in an electronics class, but I think I remember enough to keep from blowing myself up. LOL
You don't think the inductor and the caps "make the ripple" that makes the output voltage in the first place?
Whatever you do make sure you have at least 25v caps on there!! I had stuck some 10v caps on not planning to go higher than 8.4v with 2- 18350's I had...and it was doing fine..I was getting about 3.79 amps out of the module and it was just slightly warm...but I could only get up to 6.1v with the batts....so I have this power pack that puts out 23v/2.5A and I wanted to see how it would do. Well I forgot the caps were only 10v...so as soon as I touched the wire to hook it up...POP!! I'm glad the input cap was on the bottom side the board...the cap is mounted on its side and it blew one side off and embedded it in the board...the top blew across to the other side of the module! It looks like the cap is the only thing that fried...but I wont know until I rework it. No more playing until I get the right caps! 
Not to question your numbers, but basically you where running a 1.6Ω atty/load and getting 6.1V under load?Whatever you do make sure you have at least 25v caps on there!! I had stuck some 10v caps on not planning to go higher than 8.4v with 2- 18350's I had...and it was doing fine..I was getting about 3.79 amps out of the module and it was just slightly warm...but I could only get up to 6.1v with the batts....so I have this power pack that puts out 23v/2.5A and I wanted to see how it would do. Well I forgot the caps were only 10v...so as soon as I touched the wire to hook it up...POP!! I'm glad the input cap was on the bottom side the board...the cap is mounted on its side and it blew one side off and embedded it in the board...the top blew across to the other side of the module! It looks like the cap is the only thing that fried...but I wont know until I rework it. No more playing until I get the right caps!
That's pretty damn amazing:
With the LM2596 (also rated at 3A) China module the best I got was 2.6A, and it needed a heat sink to get that.
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