mp2307 buck module aka KIS-3R33S Z with 2x 10440 in a 9v batt box mod

[illuxion]

You're not wrong at all Slim, You're running about the right current for an led and enable pin(no way to run the proper current without adding yet another Vreg just for the LED) and running the rest proper. me thinks certain other folks can't tell ohm's law from a hole in the ground, or is it .... .... from a hole in the ground.....either way lol....

 

[slimest]

I read the jhonutz's post again and now thinking that he did not mean that I am wrong, but has been agreed. I guess, this is the language problems, not Ohm's Law . jhonutz in my opinion is very qualified specialist, I always get something useful from his posts.

 

[nicotime]

anything on the output is ok with a battery, the app notes for the 2307 say 22uF using 3.3v output, I just happened to have a bunch of 10v 220u tantalum caps on my desk so I used them lol. I run mine with either batteries or a power supply and the supply I use is really dirty 9v supply so I use the big boys to tame it a bit. There is a tiny cap on the input(I think 33uF), it just helps reduce some ringing on the output.

I see...thanks.

On your pic I labeled...which one is the 33uf cap for the input..#1 or #2? Can I replace that with a 100uf so I can put the cover back on the module without having any external components except for the pot...which I might be able to get a small one onboard and thru a hole in the cover also?

#3 is the Zener correct?

 

[slimest]

nicotime, zener is inside the chip. #3 is schottky diode.

You should solder capacitors for input and output. They don't exist on the original board. 33uF - 470uF capacitors will do, already tested. Even 22uF will do. The main thing - quality of these capacitors. They should be tantalum.

#1 is just short. You can replace it with approx 5-10 kiloohm resistor for "enable". №2 is a small ceramic capacitor, as I can see. Just forget about it.

 

[illuxion]

just above #1 is an input cap, by the schematic for the board it's a 10u. sorry I was really plastered last night, should have banned myself from computer usage lol.

The #3 is indeed a schottky, I was too drunk to bother with the schematic. I was trying to look at the module myself through beer goggles and no reading glasses, it was a diode of some kind, without thinking guessed zener Most of our bucks have the schottky on die, not sure why MPS does it that way.

On most of my modules I didn't bother with an input cap, the batteries are fine, I only have 1 that I added a big input cap to so I could use a 9v adapter I had laying around to power it.

 

[nicotime]

Ok..thanks guys...I cant fit my 100uf cap on the input side anyway and still get the cover back on...so I'll put it on the outside. I might just leave the cover off too...another day though. I hate it when they dont put identifying numbers on the parts like the ceramic caps!!

 

[slimest]

nicotime, illuxion is absolutely right: no need to solder a big additional input capacitor. If your 100uF does not fit, use, say, 15-22 uF, it's enough.

 

[nicotime]

Sounds good...looks like I wont be able to use the cover anyway so no problem....thanks.

 

[raidy]

Here are some of (30-40?) my mods with mp2307 inside.

 

[nicotime]

You got a mp2307 inside that cigar shaped one...that has to be a tight one Raidy!

How is that module holding up for you?

 

[raidy]

You got a mp2307 inside that cigar shaped one...that has to be a tight one Raidy!
How is that module holding up for you?

It works, but you need nerves of steel.

 

[zogu]

It works, but you need nerves of steel.

Where you found tube? I have nerves

 

[nicotime]

It works, but you need nerves of steel.

Sweet Raidy...I like how you put the tact switch on the board...so you removed the cap and jumper? on that side to mount that there? And I dont see a resistor for a pull down..did you use one...is that your gennypenny schematic?

Nerves of steel..me..haha....no...I duct tape my hands to my desk when I solder that stuff to keep them from shaking!

 

[raidy]

Sweet Raidy...I like how you put the tact switch on the board...so you removed the cap and jumper? on that side to mount that there? And I dont see a resistor for a pull down..did you use one...is that your gennypenny schematic?

Nerves of steel..me..haha....no...I duct tape my hands to my desk when I solder that stuff to keep them from shaking!

The variable resistor ist at the backside of the PCB.
The steel cover is from ac cigar cover.

 

[nicotime]

Oh I see now..its not actually on the module...but still nice and tight!