True, but I figure that the heat must be coming from some sort of electricity flowing into the button that really shouldn't be there, since nothing else gets hot. On a different mod with the same style firing button, I saw the advice given to push the button to the side so it makes contact with the ring and dissipates the electricity. It hasn't worked on the KTS+, but there's not much give in the firing post/button in the sideways direction , so I figured maybe I could surround it in Noalax and that would help it make contact. I just looked at the bottom spring, it was not in a good state. Solder had leaked out the sides of the post it looks like, it was all over the bottom of the spring/top of the coil. I torched the hell out of it until the solder boiled and popped the spring out, in addition to what may have been some sort of insulated wire (I'm not really sure though, whatever it was got super blackened during torching and then I lost it trying to clean off the blackened layer) that was previously inside the post, presumably kept there by the spring. So I'm probably going to head back to my local hardware store tomorrow and get some insulated wire, possible a better spring, and maybe some advice from someone who works in the relevant electrical department.
Might already be listed somewhere else. The button could be getting hot for a number of reasons, most often in a mechanical mod it is going to happen the most when you are running near or sub ohm coils. Some switches may not be made to handle the current needed. Poor conductivity in the mod threading from being dirty. You should really clean your mod at least every third week or so. Some industrious persons will perform weekly cleaning rituals. Could just be a bad switch or mod. The black gunk in the switch was probably melted insulator.
It is a common problem with the KTS and KTS+
Let me google that for you
You should never take a torch to the springs in your mod. A lot of the manufacturers are using brass springs both for their conductivity and for the fact that it deforms under heat pretty fast, providing a secondary safety function in addition to the fuse you should be running. Anytime you torch a spring you have lost its original strength and most likely all of its "springing" capabilities.
Noalox is a no-run lubricant that has anti-oxidant abilities, additionally it will actually break down a specific formation of oxidation. It is an excellent conductor as well. It was developed when aluminum wired houses were burning down. It provides an anti-oxidant barrier in aluminum connections while actively breaking down aluminum oxide when it forms. Making aluminum wiring safer, as long as it is maintained.
It can be used on threading for any electrical connection as it will provide lubrication without causing any noticeable voltage drop, in fact it may even increase conductivity.
I would not use it as a pure lubricant though, it's no-run characteristics are not really all that good and it is messy stuff.
Edit to clarify conductivity. When there is a dirty connection somewhere in the circuit every other connection or switch is going to take a higher hit on heat. Especially the looser connections or switches.
How are you this evening??
