Mvp 2 numbers confusion for NT liquids

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built4feel

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Thank you guys, very much! This definitely helps. I may have to order more kanthal and try more builds. I'm annoyed by my mvp though! I hate when a piece of hardware won't do what I want it to do lol

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Time to upgrade, aye?

Looks like you are verified. If you wanna sell your MVP that is?
I dont fight with equipment anymore... I get stuff that works for what I want to achieve.
To me, it sounds like you're in need of an upgrade. Just saying. :)
 

dragonflie

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Time to upgrade, aye?

Looks like you are verified. If you wanna sell your MVP that is?
I dont fight with equipment anymore... I get stuff that works for what I want to achieve.
To me, it sounds like you're in need of an upgrade. Just saying. :)
Something to consider, but the MVP could be my backup! Then I just need a backup for the backup. Lol

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danibanani

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Something to consider, but the MVP could be my backup! Then I just need a backup for the backup. Lol

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My main mod right now is the Silver Bullet. I have a back up for that (eGo-C Twist) and then I just ordered another back up Another "twist type of battery $10!!!). It's vicious cycle, really.
 

M4rtin

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Thanks for asking these questions Dragonflie, because like you I am on an MVP 2. Just ordered a Lemo tank and the squape reloaded for my MVP 2. I am also waiting to see what innokin comes up with for their version 3 before I jump into a new device.

I just received 29 gauge kanthal with my vapemail Monday, I went with 29 gauge because xmsxdrifter recommended that gauge. He said it takes less time to heat up and less time to cool down, so you are not wasting your juice. I need to get as much mileage out my nicoticket juices as possible. It is like Gold to me, no seriously!

From watching xmxdrifter, the way he handles his builds and how he cares for his reos I can tell he knows how to get the most out of what he buys. So I went with his suggestion on the gauge, but should have realized that he probably vapes at higher watts.:facepalm:

Now I am reading that Mitro suggests 30 gauge to reduce the number of wraps to increase the ohms.:facepalm:

So just to get this right, build a higher ohm coil to get the MVP 2 closer to the 11 watt range, so a 1.8 to 2.0 ohm coil build. I have noticed that my battery drains quicker with a higher ohm coil then when I have the lower ohm coils on the MVP 2. Well I should say the bvc coils I buy run 1.7/1.9 on the 1.6 coils and the 1.8 coils run 1.9 to 2.0 ohms.

I read all the posts on that thread when Dani got her billet at the B&M and she started to build her own. I have to say I learned a ton from that thread! I also bought the readyxwick, I forget who suggested that one, but I know she also has the lemo tank, I read that suggestion on that thread also when I was researching which RBA tanks to get. So even thought I do not post a lot, I have to say you guys/gals rock and thanks for all your posts!:thumbs:

So with all of that out of the way, I am in the same boat so to speak as you dragonflie, on an mvp 2 just starting to re-build. So I look forward to hear from you what you get to experience and what will work best (sweet spot) is as far as the coil build will be on your MVP 2.

Sorry, I am not a forum posting expert and my posts tend to go in many directions.
 

penguiness

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Thanks for asking these questions Dragonflie, because like you I am on an MVP 2. Just ordered a Lemo tank and the squape reloaded for my MVP 2. I am also waiting to see what innokin comes up with for their version 3 before I jump into a new device.

I just received 29 gauge kanthal with my vapemail Monday, I went with 29 gauge because xmsxdrifter recommended that gauge. He said it takes less time to heat up and less time to cool down, so you are not wasting your juice. I need to get as much mileage out my nicoticket juices as possible. It is like Gold to me, no seriously!

From watching xmxdrifter, the way he handles his builds and how he cares for his reos I can tell he knows how to get the most out of what he buys. So I went with his suggestion on the gauge, but should have realized that he probably vapes at higher watts.:facepalm:

Now I am reading that Mitro suggests 30 gauge to reduce the number of wraps to increase the ohms.:facepalm:

So just to get this right, build a higher ohm coil to get the MVP 2 closer to the 11 watt range, so a 1.8 to 2.0 ohm coil build. I have noticed that my battery drains quicker with a higher ohm coil then when I have the lower ohm coils on the MVP 2. Well I should say the bvc coils I buy run 1.7/1.9 on the 1.6 coils and the 1.8 coils run 1.9 to 2.0 ohms.

I read all the posts on that thread when Dani got her billet at the B&M and she started to build her own. I have to say I learned a ton from that thread! I also bought the readyxwick, I forget who suggested that one, but I know she also has the lemo tank, I read that suggestion on that thread also when I was researching which RBA tanks to get. So even thought I do not post a lot, I have to say you guys/gals rock and thanks for all your posts!:thumbs:

So with all of that out of the way, I am in the same boat so to speak as you dragonflie, on an mvp 2 just starting to re-build. So I look forward to hear from you what you get to experience and what will work best (sweet spot) is as far as the coil build will be on your MVP 2.

Sorry, I am not a forum posting expert and my posts tend to go in many directions.

Your questions and comments are good ones.

As far as gauge wire, think of it like this: you have 1/2 oz of Kanthal. Now, you can make thinner wire (lower gauge) and have to wrap it more times to get your 1/2oz, or you can make thicker wire with less wraps. It does take more force to push energy through the thicker stuff. At higher ohms and it moves slower due to the resistance it receives trying to push that energy through it. The higher the resistance, the more force. The more force, the more drain on your battery.

This is where you have to decide what works best for you. If you build several coils with different gauges at the same ohms, taste test them. Any difference? If none, then why not use less energy (29 gauge). If there is a difference, which one seems better to you? Once you decide that, you can play around with different ohms to find your personal sweet spot. People can suggest gauge wire and ohms all day long, but in the end it is what works best for you that matters :)

What works for me? I don't go under 1 ohm on my tanks, as I found that the higher heat that radiates from the coil "cooks" the juice in the tank. I have some juice that likes 1.4ohms, and some that likes 1.2. I have decided for myself that I don't care for Ohms above 1.8. I do not feel I get any better flavor for the amount of battery power it takes to heat it. My drippers are a different story, but we are talking tanks and my 4 Lemo's.
 

ronnbert

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And your post is the crux of the issue of my confusion lol.

If it's within the amp range why can't it get above 11? Why would they have the option of adjusting voltage to 5? Hope I'm not sounding stupid here.

Gah. I just want to know what these juices would taste like at 15w or so without blowing my face up with something unregulated. Would my impending istick purchase allow me to do this? And then of course the MVP 3 when it releases lol.

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The iStick caps at 5.6 volts I believe. I threw a 2.0(?) Ohm coil in my Big Dripper on my MVP and iStick as a proof of concept and the iStick did function better even at 11 watts, but when I cranked it up to 20 and fired it, the watts dropped down to where the cap is at 5.whatever volts. I want to say it went down to 15 or so watts. So to get a true 20 watts I will have to build closer to the 1 ohm cap (and any amp limit) to rock on the iStick. On the other hand I could throw it on the sigelei and shoot for the stars [emoji13]

Now, I loved my MVP, it was a great starting unit, and I still use it for around the shop, since we don't sell the iStick or some of the other gear I have (trying to get them to look into nicoticket wholesale though!!) but now the iStick is my go to battery for the nautilus. Until the MVP 3 comes out [emoji58]

ETA: the iStick caps at 5.4 volts.
 
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SpaceCase

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Okay, so the MVP 2 is limited by amperage drain, it can indeed fire at 11 watts, buuuut, I can't fire over it's amperage, if you set it to 11 watts however, it will always fire at it's maximum available power.
2 Ohms is basically the sweet spot from all my experimentation. It will fire as low as .8 ohms consitantly, but you're not using the devices full range that low.
 

ronnbert

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Ronnbert, when is the MVP3 coming out and other than going to higher watts( what I read) will it do?
So sorry my sweet Lynn, didn't realize you had asked me a question. Forgive my lapse in answering! Innokin has already released a 20 watt MVP. I have seen it start to hit select stores. I believe same size battery on the inside and not too much changed from the MVP 2. IIRC, they may have moved the firing button up a slight bit.

Now I haven't heard much about the MVP 3, but I would speculate that it will reach 30-50 watts and take a removable 18650. They also plan on putting out a 3rd version, but I guess we will have to wait and see!
 

M4rtin

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I just received the MVP20 two days ago along with the Istick. I used it for a day and it definitely is exactly the same as the MVP 2.0 except that it goes up to 20 watts and you can now screw the tank into the MVP 20 so it sits flush with it. They do include a thread adapter for ego style tanks. I put that on just in case to protect the threads. It does perform better than the 2.0, so the new chip they put in makes a difference and of course the higher watts.

The Istick is definitely smaller,lighter and it packs a wallup. I vape around the 10 /10.5 watts and it is definitely a stronger vape in comparison to the MVP 2.0 or 20 at the same watts. So Vape at lower watts then you are used to if you use the Istick. I hear there are threading issues on both the MVP and Istick. The threads on my MVP stripped overnight after three months. Luckily one of my silo tanks was able to catch a thread on the bottom of it till the new .

I have been using the Istick instead of the MVP 20 with the thread adapter and ordered an ego to ego adapter so hopefully the threads this way will last on both.

I hope with the MVP3 they use a stronger metal or stronger threading, because the MVP20 has the same threads, but it at least it comes with an ego adapter so if they go on that you have time to get another adapter and still use the threads that are on the inside of the MVP 20.

Added Correction, tomorrow they will be releasing The New Istick Mini which is even smaller in length then the Istick, mine was the IStick.

I have to agree with Pictor, the MVP is a workhorse and a very solid device.
 
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Pictor

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Earlier today, I was looking at the latest Innokin release: MVP 20W (The V3 is not released yet) - they say it's more streamlined and has a better chip ...no mention of size though, but the brief review shows it to be the same as the MVP2, and the 'streamlining' comes in under the guise of the Ego adapter that comes with it. A quick review seems to indicate it's exactly the same size, and the firing button still the same. Interesting what this says about coils under 0.9ohms: Sneak Peak - Innokin MVP 20W - Todds Reviews

Not in stock everywhere here yet, but cheapest I've seen in the UK is this one:http://puremist.co.uk/pure-mist-mods/innokin-itaste-mvp-20w

It's in Black, Silver, White and Lime, so for me, no particularly innovative colours yet.

I know this MVP 20W isn't a 'mini' size, but it almost feels like an intermediate release to try and compete with other new ones, but I'd say the iStick leaves it standing for design, size and performance.
To me, it's like comparing a solid work horse like a Volvo to a nippy little Mini.

I think I'm liking the look of the new Cloupor mini 30W better.(similar size to the iStick, and then the new iVP mini is larger)
 
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