MVP battery life

[ablonde1]

I bought my itaste MVP a little over a week ago. I think I have a problem and I would like to get everyone's opinion. I have noticed my battery life isn't what I expected it to be. I pull it off a full charge and reset the puff counter and I notice around 440 puffs the LED is in the yellow. (It may be less than 440, this is just when I happen to notice it) Is this normal or do have a defective battery? One other thing I have also noticed is that when I check the ohms I get one reading try it again with the same atomizer and sometimes I get a different reading. Should I not always get the same resistance? Thanks everyone for your expertise .

 

[Baditude]

I pay no attention to the puff counter. To me, its a useless feature.

You can press the P & U (wattage & voltage) buttons simultaneously to get the ohm rating of the coil connected and then get the battery voltage reading. Full charge will be 4.2 volts. Discharge reading will be around 3.5 volts.

When charging the MVP, are you waiting for the green light on the fire button to turn off before removing the USB connector? That's how you know the MVP is fully charged.

 

[eastwest]

It depends on what ohms you're running and the wattage/voltage. If you press both buttons at the same time the first reading should show an A with a number next to it. That's the ohms you are using. The second reading will have a U (which probably is supposed to represent a V) and that's the voltage you are using. I've been running 1.6 ohms at 4.4 volts and I've been getting at least 500 puffs before it turns yellow. The puff counter is just that, a counter. Also, how many seconds you vape each time you press the button will affect how long the battery lasts.

 

[ablonde1]

Yes, when I charge my MVP the green light goes off, so its completely charged. The voltage in yellow, when I check its around 3.6. Then about 50 puffs the LCD changes and goes to red. My MVP measures the same atomizer anywhere from 1.8 - 2.3.

 

[porkchopbun]

Yes, when I charge my MVP the green light goes off, so its completely charged. The voltage in yellow, when I check its around 3.6. Then about 50 puffs the LCD changes and goes to red. My MVP measures the same atomizer anywhere from 1.8 - 2.3.

This doesn't sound normal either, it should be consistent reading esp if you haven't move the atomizer around (unscrew/twist, etc)
How long have you had the MVP...I'll be honest..what you're experiencing doesn't sound right...I fully charged mine on Monday , and I know I'm over 100 "puffs", at 10 to 11 watts on 1.2 ohm coil. I take huge hits where the Green led flashes (10 second cut offs), and I'm at 3.9 v left on the battery today.

 

[DingerCPA]

ablonde1, what coil ohms? what wattage/voltage? That might play into why your MVP is "draining" more quickly

:edit: if you press EITHER the P or the U button, that specifies the mode in which you're running the MVP. after you press the P and the U TOGETHER, you get ohms reading and then life of the battery left.

:edit2: sorry - eastwest beat me to the punch

 

[eastwest]

Correction to what I wrote earlier. After you press both buttons together, the second reading with a U is the recommended voltage for the ohms you currently have. Not the voltage it is currently set to. If you hold down only the U button, the first reading is how many puffs you have taken and the second reading is the voltage it is actually set at.

Also to clarify, none of the readings show battery life. Only the colored light around the firing button indicates how much battery is left. Green = good. Yellow = around half. Red = charge soon.

 

[inksane]

Correction to what I wrote earlier. After you press both buttons together, the second reading with a U is the recommended voltage for the ohms you currently have. Not the voltage it is currently set to. If you hold down only the U button, the first reading is how many puffs you have taken and the second reading is the voltage it is actually set at.

Also to clarify, none of the readings show battery life. Only the colored light around the firing button indicates how much battery is left. Green = good. Yellow = around half. Red = charge soon.

I think your first post is right and second wrong the "u" when you push both buttons is the remaining battery voltage.

 

[kslice917]

I think your first post is right and second wrong the "u" when you push both buttons is the remaining battery voltage.

Just to confirm, that is correct. When you press and hold both the 'P' and 'U' buttons it will read resistance (displayed with an 'A' meant to look like an 'R') and then it will flash to the remaining voltage (displayed with a 'U' meant to look like a 'V').

I'm at 375 puffs with 4v remaining right now on a 1.2 ohm atty - so unless you're taking full 10-second drags on the thing, I would say something isn't quite right. In regards to the multiple resistance readings, you may want to look into pulling the 510 connector pin on your MVP up a little bit. This seems to be a common issue with the floating-pin design used in this device and has been known to cause these exact symptoms. First-hand experience with this issue myself!

 

[Tom Servo]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the yellow light indicate about 50% charge?

 

[kslice917]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the yellow light indicate about 50% charge?

According to the Official Innokin iTaste MVP User Manual, "The LED lights will show green, yellow or red to indicate whether there is full battery life, half capacity or charging needed."

So yes, the yellow light is a 50% charge. I believe it turns red at 10%...but I could be wrong. I rarely hit that point myself

 

[Tom Servo]

According to the Official Innokin iTaste MVP User Manual, "The LED lights will show green, yellow or red to indicate whether there is full battery life, half capacity or charging needed."

Ah! I knew I'd read it somewhere.

Wait...I actually read a manual? Weird.

 

[sando7]

was having something similar happening to my MVP, originally i was using a 1amp adapter and it charged very slow but held it's charge all day and then some.....then i switched charging to a 2.1 amp USB plug on the side of a surge protector and it charged quickly and i was pleased until my charge wasn't lasting no time at all, yellow light after an hour of use from a full charge......went back to the 1amp wart and all has been good every-since.....?...just thought i'd throw that out-there.

 

[eastwest]

My mistake! I pulled out the manual and read it again. Yes when you press both buttons together it will first show the ohms and then the battery voltage. But I've mainly been using the color of the lights as my guide to how much battery is left. It's gone to yellow only a couple of times on me. Never seen red since I always charge before it gets to that point.

 

[buffaloguy]

Two things of the fluctuating ohms reading you are getting. One reason could be the 510 pin being pushed in. As the other member pointed out prying it up a little may help.

The other reason ohms will fluctuate is a loose lead on the coil of your atomizer. 9x out of 10x with a rba or rda the leads arent screwed under the post tight enuff or well enough and a small shift from firing the atty will cause the fluctuation. Tightening down the leads of the coil usually rectifies this. Now if you are not using an rba or rda then it could be the coil is old and in need of cleaning or replacement. This will happen with kanger coils, vivi coils, and the like.

 

[ablonde1]

Thanks guys for all the info. Today, I will diligently monitor my MVP and see how long the battery lasts and I will post back later with my findings, and for more help. But so far I took it off the charger with a full charge took 2 puffs (about 3-4 seconds) and I'm reading 4.1 volts. I'm using a brand new iclear 30 at 2 ohms.

 

[roadkill46]

To Sum it up and add a few. (this is redundant)
1. top button watts
2. bottom button volts
(both of the powers going to the tank/carto etc.)
3. both buttons together=atty resistance then power left on battery..at full charge mine is at 4.1
4. puff counter, useless and is the first number on the watt or voltage button when held
5. more power is needed with say an Aspire BDC due to the dual coils.
6. more power is needed as the atty 'ages', when you check it, it will read say 1.8 and a day later 2.0. this could be a connection issue also, not getting a full pin connection will make it fluctuate.
7. take a 'something thin' and go around the edge of the pin and pull up slightly. my pin actually stuck due to some juice in it and it sprang up even though there is supposedly no spring but an O ring. I only have to do this on one T3s and since i changed the atty it does not push it down anymore.
8. the more power, the more your battery will drain. i'm at 10 watts on my fav juice in a BDC, but it will still last 48 hours before going yellow.
9. don't let it go yellow! batteries don't take a set anymore. while at home i turn the unit on, then use a Sprint phone plug (same connection) and use it as a passthrough while watching the tube. battery will still charge when using as a passthrough
10. i have found that since i have to vape outside, i turn mine on and off when coming out of the building. in my mind, this 'resets' it to the wattage correctly, but that is purely anecdotal, just in my head!

you do have a defective unit if the battery is not lasting more than a day. i have had mine now, just about on constantly for the past 7 months and no issues. matter of fact my new MVP-2 Energy Oak is 'out for delivery' USPS today!!!!

 

[ablonde1]

Here are my readings for the day. At 59 puffs - 4.0 volts, 106 puffs - 3.9 volts, 258 puffs 3.6 volts, 340 puffs (I'm in the red) at 3.6 volts, 362 puffs 3.5 volts. These numbers are not exactly when the battery reached a certain point, they are just when I checked the counter. Today I used a new iclear 30 at 2 ohms. Probably my average puff is around 4-5 seconds. I've got my MVP set at 3.7 volts. Another thing I forgot to mention does anyone have a rattle when you pickup your MVP? Its not a loud noise but it is differently there. So what is everyone opinion, is this normal? I appreciate all of your feedback.

 

[kslice917]

The only rattling noise you should be getting from your MVP is any of the 3 buttons on the device moving when you shake it. A simple test of if this rattling is the buttons is to hold (with very slight pressure, just enough to hold in place) the 3 buttons and shake the device. If you're still hearing a rattle, I would say that's not a good sign. Also, make sure to take your tank/topper off when you do this.

As for the puff counter and your seemingly rapid decrease of battery...well, something is definitely not right there. I find it hard to believe that with the electronic control board in the MVP; should any of the electronic components be loose/broken, the safety implementations should prevent you from using the device altogether.

 

[ablonde1]

I tried as you suggested and the rattle is not coming from the buttons, if I had to guess I think its around the power source slot.