MXJO IMR 2500mAh 20A Cont 35A Pulse

[Zod]

Actually that hex build is Gplat 26g which will soften and sag just like nichrome or 100% nickel. Same where you have to carefully pulse it as you compress the coils.

I've been on the Gplat bandwagon for about 6 months cause it's the only thing you can do crazy builds like that with relative ease. As you see from my join date I've been playing with this stuff for a while. I just don't post that often.

 

[invisiblehand13]

Actually that hex build is Gplat 26g which will soften and sag just like nichrome or 100% nickel. Same where you have to carefully pulse it as you compress the coils.

I've been on the Gplat bandwagon for about 6 months cause it's the only thing you can do crazy builds like that with relative ease. As you see from my join date I've been playing with this stuff for a while. I just don't post that often.

You ever get itchy off the the 316l (gplat) ??? I don't know if I am allergic or what but every time I try it with my 316l wire it makes me itchy, like bad lol

 

[Gummy Bare]

You ever get itchy off the the 316l (gplat) ??? I don't know if I am allergic or what but every time I try it with my 316l wire it makes me itchy, like bad lol

This has been a killer read guys, this whole thread! I’m glad I stumbled across it. I was doing some battery research for a new bulk purchase for me and a few buddies and ran across this thread on google (long time ECF member as well BTW).

I love Nichrome and am a major subohmer myself; the same as you invisiblehand13.... Well, maybe not as crazy as you. I'm rocking at like 0.12ohms-0.16ohms. But I also have many higher ohm flavor chasing builds I frequent often. I just go with the flow of the RDA and the juice I’m vaping at the time; whatever works the best I try and hit that mark.

Anyway, the real reason that broke me from lurker to poster on this thread was this: I've also been playing with some G-Plat a bit recently (24g & 22g).... I saw you mentioned a term “316I”. What is that? I have no clue what it means and am very interested for some reason. Also, the itchy feeling you’re getting. Can you dive into that a bit more? I’m also interested as I’ve changed a lot of things recently (juice, RDA, Wire, Medication) and just kinda wanna know more exactly what you’re experiencing.

Thanks for da info my man.

 

[Ryedan]

Anyway, the real reason that broke me from lurker to poster on this thread was this: I've also been playing with some G-Plat a bit recently (24g & 22g).... I saw you mentioned a term “316I”. What is that?

Stainless steel grade 316L. I can't help with anything else because I've never used it.

 

[Gummy Bare]

Stainless steel grade 316L. I can't help with anything else because I've never used it.

I'm well aware of what 316 steel is.... are you saying that he's stating G-plat wire is made of 316L stainless steel? It didn't seem like he was mentioning the metal material of an atomizer device. Maybe I got lost in translation here some where. It's late now, and was then when I responded before. But non the less, the 316l (or as you stated 316L) comment seemed to be directed at the resistance wire known as G-plat. Maybe it contains a small amount of 316L SS in it? Not really sure. I know kanthal, nichrome, and various "fanboy" or "designer" resistance wires out there (royal, g-plat, hot wires, etc)..... but I don't claim to know the metal or chemical properties of them. Just how they seem to perform.

Had a few drinks as of this post.... slightly confused atm. I'm sure he'll pop back in and clear it up soon. I'm always down to learn more about wire and wicking material we use.

 

[Ryedan]

I'm well aware of what 316 steel is.... are you saying that he's stating G-plat wire is made of 316L stainless steel?

Correct, G-plat is stainless steel. As I said, I don't use it so I have not researched this, but I think from the bits I've read over the last while that this has been pretty well established. Google would probably help fill in the details

 

[Gummy Bare]

Correct, G-plat is stainless steel. As I said, I don't use it so I have not researched this, but I think from the bits I've read over the last while that this has been pretty well established. Google would probably help fill in the details

Weird, it's some soft ... stainless steel if that's what it is.

 

[Gummy Bare]

From what I've been reading, it's 317l welding wire. Not 316l. At least that's what's flouting around the interwebs. But I've yet to know anyone that's tried 317l welding wire and vaped with it. There's different kinds as well, some with coating over it, some with hollow cores with some type of Flux or whatever in it, and then the solid core kind which is supposed to be the same as G-plat. All read in random forums and all, so I can't say for sure. Supposedly someone had some tested performed and got the results of composition.

 

[Kemosabe]

Try it with nichrome 80 of either 24 or maybe 22 gauge, I prefer the 24 gauge though and see the AMAZING difference in temperature, that is why people say I can't hit it like that too cause they are using kanthal instead of nichrome 80, it is WARM but not overly HOT like kanthal...but make sure it is nichrome 80 and not any other grade like the 20, 40 or 60... I get mine from lightning vapes and if you ever used "royal" wire that is what it is...so you could just get royal wire instead if you want to overpay alot for some fancy packaging and name brand crap lol

i am a big fan of nichrome for high wattage applications. i like it on mechs too, but for me, where it really shines is on my sigelei 100W. a nice fat macro compressed coil with a veritable Chunk of cotton performs splendidly in mid to high watt applications. for low to mid wattage, i like kanthal.

i get my nichrome (and kanthal) from TemCo power supply. i agree with ih13 above that Lightning Vapes is another good supplier. i never ventured into the royal wires, hot wires, g-plat and all that "mystery" stuff. its all kanthal and nichrome 80 for me.

 

[Gummy Bare]

i get my nichrome (and kanthal) from TemCo power supply. its all kanthal and nichrome 80 for me.

I didn't know TemCo sold nichrome 80. I've ordered from them many times. I must be missing it somehow.

 

[Zod]

Yeah, I've ordered some 316L to test the gplat against as 316 and 317 are supposedly very similar. Thankfully I only ordered 15 ft to test it out this summer. It really is some of the best wire I've ever used but nowhere near a bump to warrant it's cost. If the 316 works out it's even cheaper than kanthal.

On the itching did you remember to clean the 316 before using it? SS is safe for vaping as it gasses at temperatures FAR higher than anyone vapes but I don't trust manufacturers to not have oils on their spooling machines when 316 wire isn't intended to contact anything you're consuming. I do know if I use anything with aluminum in it like a couple sweet drip tips I have my gums start to swell and bleed after a few days. UGH. I've had zero issues while using gplat off and on for several months now.

I'd prefer to give away all my kanthal if the 316 works though as I notice a slight metallic flavor from it after using the gplat.

 

[Kemosabe]

I didn't know TemCo sold nichrome 80. I've ordered from them many times. I must be missing it somehow.

My bad. It's nichrome 60. Just checked my stash.

 

[brickman7]

The guy that sold the MXJOs made the 35 continous claim, he didn't say that a MXJO rep made the claim! They aren't 35 continous, they are in fact 35A pulse...20A continous.

 

[Gummy Bare]

I wonder why there's not someone in the vaping community that has the know how and equipment to test batteries and find their true amp rating. There's so much speculation on the batteries we use and the true power or lack of they have.

I'm not sure what kind of equipment and tests that would have to be run to get proper specs out of various batteries, but I do know our vaping community has a wide range of people with all kinda of jobs and skill sets.... just figured by now someone with the ability to do so would be dropping the knowledge on us and "cracking the case" so to say on these batteries and their true potential. Maybe there is and I just don't know about it? Or maybe the testing is next to impossible to be done outside of the real manufacturer?

 

[sedge]

^^^jkuro

Kuro Concepts. Maker of the Kuro Coiler. He tests mods for voltage drop and battery performance.



http://www.calivapers.com/index.php?threads/5222/

 

[Gummy Bare]

^^^jkuro

Kuro Concepts. Maker of the Kuro Coiler. He tests mods for voltage drop and battery performance.



http://www.calivapers.com/index.php?threads/5222/

Is he the one that did the comparison tests on all three metal styles of the nemesis (stainless, brass, & copper) and found they all hit the same due to the common issue all mech mods suffer from, which is the bottleneck of current flow traveling through the skinny 510 top pin?

 

[sedge]

I'm not sure but could be.