My 14500 bats keep dying.

Status
Not open for further replies.

magus7091

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 14, 2009
167
38
Morgantown, WV

RjG

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 16, 2008
630
42
57
Edmonton AB Canada
I had a feeling that might come up... I'll try it, but a question, what about buying unprotected batteries, & a protection circuit, and wiring it in series with the battery in my box? Would this work?


Dropping them kills the protect circuit, or maybe your charger clamps them too tight. It's pretty easy to mechanically damage them.

On the other side of the metal plate on the bottom of protected batteries are SMD components for the protection.
They are flimsey, and not soldered well. I have a stack of dead DX 14500's as well, lol

Your batteries will probably work if you cut the protection off. Problem is, there is a POSITIVE flat metal ribbon that runs down to the bottom from the top of the battery for it to work.

To remove the protection, you have to rip that strip off too, since you can't have the postive lead just laying around the bottom of an unprotected battery. So you have to cut / remove the battery wrap, remove all that stuff, and re-cover the battery with shrink tube, or tape or something.

I did that with a couple, and even replaced the protection board on some of them.... but you are 100% correct. The "protection" board alone is cheap @ dx. Buy a few of those (one and a couple spares) and wire it into your mod with unprotected batteries. Just be VERY SURE than your charger cuts off properly somewhere under 4.25 volts, since you won't have the "double safety" any more.
 

magus7091

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 14, 2009
167
38
Morgantown, WV
I'm thinking, from what you said, that it's the bat box itself that's damaging them. It's a tight fit to get them in there and they kinda snap in once I insert them. The box I'm using is one of the ones from digi-key and even with moving the positive terminal back it's a tight fit. I can't really make the neg terminal more loose with the way the box is set up, so that's probably what's causing the damage. Do you think it would be safe to remove the protection circuit? Is it possible that they're actually at risk of thermal runaway and not just a malfunctioning circuit... I don't really know if I should trust Li-ion batteries in a nicostick, without protection. If they do rupture it could cause serious harm to myself and my stuff.
 

magus7091

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 14, 2009
167
38
Morgantown, WV
OK.... More battery woes.... I don't know wth is wrong but I'm getting ridiculously frustrated with this. Just got a couple bats from madvapes... One of them is on charge right now... The other one? Well, it won't charge. Multimeter shows it to be at approximately 2.8 volts. Is it dead? Am I doing something wrong?
 

caesar

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Jun 4, 2009
273
1
Bucharest
theprecious.ro
Your problem comes from the cheap charger.
The batts were fine when you first started using them but these cheap chinese chargers kill them slowly in time.

Buying batts from china is ok but chargers should be better quality.
Best method is to buy some Li-Ion charger boards based on MAX1811 and make your own charger.
 

Kurt

Quantum Vapyre
ECF Veteran
Sep 16, 2009
3,433
3,607
Philadelphia
OK.... More battery woes.... I don't know wth is wrong but I'm getting ridiculously frustrated with this. Just got a couple bats from madvapes... One of them is on charge right now... The other one? Well, it won't charge. Multimeter shows it to be at approximately 2.8 volts. Is it dead? Am I doing something wrong?

2.8V is likely below what is necessary to fire up the coil.

Thanks for the link, Caesar! My charger is this one the site you linked has (but bought from DX):

TrustFire MultiFunctional TR-001 Lithium Battery Charger [TrustFire] - $11.83 : High Tech DealZ, Simplifying the LASER Hobby!

I take it this is a "cheap charger". Are there good ones out there? I don't have time or the knowledge to make my own charger...yet. :cool:
 
Last edited:

WillyB

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 21, 2009
3,709
591
USA
The other one? Well, it won't charge. Multimeter shows it to be at approximately 2.8 volts. Is it dead?
Assuming your meter is correct that battery should charge, but it is bit too low as most Li-ions ship and should always be at 3+V.

From Battery University:

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Some lithium-ion batteries fail due to excessive low discharge. If discharged below 2.5 volts per cell, the internal safety circuit opens and the battery appears dead. A charge with the original charger is no longer possible. Some battery analyzers (Cadex) feature a boost function that reactivates the protection circuit of a failed battery and enables a recharge.

[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This may be what has happened and why your charger won't accept it.[/FONT] A new cell should not come in this condition. Consider it junk and ask for a replacement.


2.8V is likely below what is necessary to fire up the coil.

Thanks for the link, Caesar! My charger is this one the site you linked has (but bought from DX):

TrustFire MultiFunctional TR-001 Lithium Battery Charger [TrustFire] - $11.83 : High Tech DealZ, Simplifying the LASER Hobby!

I take it this is a "cheap charger". Are there good ones out there? I don't have time or the knowledge to make my own charger...yet. :cool:
I believe your charger may be better than the OP's as it at least seems to charge at a slower rate in real world testing. Many of the Chinese chargers basic designs are OK but the problem seems to be the inexpensive parts and their high 5% tolerance figures, which can swing in either direction. In other words depending on the 5% 'swing' of numerous components there can be major sample to sample differences. You'll never see 5% tolerances used in Military Spec devices.

For the most part though overcharging seems to be the biggest enemy of li-ion. Looking at this chart you'll note that charging to 4.3V will significantly lower a batteries longevity.

parttwo-34-2.jpg


If you have decent meter check your batts when they come off the charger. Many folks don't own a precision meter, but something like 4.14-4.18V is problem a safe result.

You can go nuts and do some reading here, these folks are true fanatics. There are also diagrams on tweaking cheap chargers to get them in spec.

CandlePowerForums - Powered by vBulletin

FWIW this seems to be the fanatics choice.

Pretty much the standard of excellence

Buy Pila IBC™ 4-stage Charger, AC Adapter, Carrying Case | Pila BC01-AC01
 

magus7091

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 14, 2009
167
38
Morgantown, WV
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread