my battery cooked my wimpy atomizer to perfection!

[freddo]

Alright i found this pretty damn cool and maybe a solution to healing wimpy atomizers!!

Right well here goes....

My atomizer started to go wimpy after i decided to clean it. It has been alive for almost 2months now so i thought it was due a good old clean. Well anyway, after i cleaned and dried for a 2 days it was even more wimpy than before....damn! this was before i began messing about with some funny batteries

I was fiddlin about with one of my batteries which kept turning itself on randomly (very over sensitive switch) and changing it between atomizers to see if it might work with a specific one...still kept doing it.

I plugged it into my wimpy atomizer(which i hadn't touch in about a 3 days after cleaning/drying) and what a suprise, it was still turning itself on, much like a cleaning cycle...well anyway i let it fry away for i dunno about 15 secs or so, till it started getting hot, so i unscrewed. I then plugged a normal battery into the wimp after dropping a few drops into it and much to my suprise vapour production was increased by about 60-70%, i was just about to throw it away too!! the flavour was still there an' all

If any others have any faulty batts and some wimpy atomizers give it a try, trust me you won't regret it and plus you got nothing to lose. I was amazed...

I think that all a wimpy atomizer needs is a good old heating once its gotten old!!

(btw this was with a dse901 white)

try it out and tell me if it works for you??

Thanks guys

 

[MrFog]

Yes I suspect that this is all the e-turbo in the other thread does. Heats up the coil to burn the crap off. Nothing more. At the end of the day what more can you do with an electric current and a heating coil ?

 

[Somoney]

I'll second this notion,
On another thread some of us are gutting our old 901 batteries and connecting usb cables to them. The effects are verry similar to what your stating here. The higher run time / or in the usb case Voltage burns the gunk off our dieing atomizers. I found taking the atomizer off My USB901 and putting it onto my battery powered 901 produced superior vapor. I Then proceeded to place the once battery operated atomizer onto my USB901 and PRESTO-CHANGE 'O, it fixed that one too.


I good wash is fine but I found that putting it on my USB901 extends the time it even needs to be washed.

Keep your carts wet,
SoMoney

 

[CaSHMeRe]

X3 ...

My USB901 (made by bastaga <-- shoutout) is awesome. Draw stays consistent 100% of the time. Lots of power = smooth running atomizer ...

 

[ted26]

Just tried it with 3 801 atomizers and 2 are like new with one fried

Used one of those aa battery boxes with a manual switch, pressed switch and looked down inside the atomizer till it glowed red hot!

And as meatloaf said 2 outta 3 aint bad

 

[freddo]

well done mate. it works it works!!

 

[ApOsTle51]

i've heard similar stories with the screwdriver doing much the same thing, because you can control the time on , seems it can help to refresh gunked up atomizers.

 

[PeteMcArthur]

i've heard similar stories with the screwdriver doing much the same thing, because you can control the time on , seems it can help to refresh gunked up atomizers.

Yes the SD can perk up some wimps, I've got a couple of 901s that are real wimps on the 901 battery, but on the screwdriver they perked up. I'll try really zapping them on the SD and see if that really boosts them.

 

[Dale]

Check me on this but I think of my atomizers as akin to old school incandescent light bulbs... too much constant current and they'll burn out resulting in a broken connection and no more current flow/heating/operation. Are the little suckers sturdier than I am thinking?

All this talk of blasting an atomizer with power freaks me out. With my Screwdriver I can look down the cartless atomizer hole as I trigger the switch, and if I apply power too long it starts to glow orange down there. This freaks me out.

 

[PeteMcArthur]

Check me on this but I think of my atomizers as akin to old school incandescent light bulbs... too much constant current and they'll burn out resulting in a broken connection and no more current flow/heating/operation. Are the little suckers sturdier than I am thinking?

All this talk of blasting an atomizer with power freaks me out. With my Screwdriver I can look down the cartless atomizer hole as I trigger the switch, and if I apply power too long it starts to glow orange down there. This freaks me out.

I think this (may) work if you have an crud covered atomiser. Heat the atomiser up hard and the crud burns off. Do it for too long and you burn out the atomiser. The SD perks up atomisers, I think, by 2 methods :-
1: The big battery means there is a lot less voltage drop under load
2: With a wimp, you can press the button a bit longer before you draw.

The blasting would replicate the dreaded cleaning cycle of auto batteries. Big problem with that is it happened when you were not expecting it, if you had a dryish cart in the filling would melt and the atomiser would taste like crap for ages.

 

[trog100]

poking a paper clip in a hole did the same thing with the original ruyan cigar.. someone has just reinvented the the e cig wheel.. he he

but do it tooo much and your atomizer might die.. the screwdriver can do two things.. it can bring wimps back to life (not as its claimed to do this) or it can burn out the atomizer and kill it stone dead..

giving the user control of the power button can have its down side as well as its plus side..

all i can say is an atomizer is more durable than the makers would have u think.. personally i dont think the S/D effects atomizer life much overall .. it can bring wimps back to life.. but it can also kill off good ones a bit quicker with too much button pressing..

my sons way of testing an atomizer or battery is simply to press the button and see if it glows cherry red.. it dosnt seem to do them much harm.. and paradoxically his seem to last him longer than mine last me.. his turn into wimps.. mine tend to work okay and then just stop..

trog

 

[SuperSteph]

Nichrome wire supposively lasts up to 1400 degrees before breaking down. it's possible they're not using nichrome, but something cheaper like the wire found in a light bulb, tungsten or something.
that, and the wire inside the atomizer connecting the element to the casing is really small gauge, meaning that wire might fail before the element. and if they're using leaded solder, forget it, the solder will fail at those temps before anything else.

 

[BarryK]

Be a bit wary of this method of cleaning - I destroyed 5 or 6 atomisers last week by keeping the switch on until the elements glowed red hot, it certainly cleaned 'em OK - but also burned away all the 'wicking' so all are totally useless now.

Come to think of it I haven't tried them by dripping direct on to the element - that may work..........

 

[trog100]

Nichrome wire supposively lasts up to 1400 degrees before breaking down. it's possible they're not using nichrome, but something cheaper like the wire found in a light bulb, tungsten or something.
that, and the wire inside the atomizer connecting the element to the casing is really small gauge, meaning that wire might fail before the element. and if they're using leaded solder, forget it, the solder will fail at those temps before anything else.

i think thats what happens.. the crappy connections fail before the coil.. i have a few dead ones.. a bucket full to be honest... he he he

i keep meaning to have very close look to see which part actually fails but havnt as yet got a round to it.. the coil itself seem robust enough..

many years ago old TV tubes used to go "wimpish".. one guy made something called a "tube cracker"... the one i saw (used) was a normal house light bulb mounted on a cigar box..

u connected this thing up to the back of an old (poor contrast) TV tube and switched it on..

nine times out of ten this thing brought an old tube back to working okay life.. sometimes it killed hem... when its do or die there is nothing to lose.. but like with most things.. a little knowledges of whats happening helps..

trog

ps... the other things that kills atomizer open circuit is the small brass center positive connection turns round... this can happen when the battery is screwed to the atomizer.. the center bit turns and the little wire behind it snaps.. this is not uncommon.. the more often a battery is connected (screwed unscrewed) the more likely it is to happen..

 

[Somoney]

Okay, I think some of us here are overdoing it. The intent of getting your atomizer cherry hot is to only burn off the gunk , NOT use it as a flashlight to light your room 8-o!
When I heat the atomizing coil, Im also puffing (not inhaling) on the atomizer (without cart). I look down, wait for vapor to form down there, and puff it out!

This does two things,
1. Causes the atomizer to go from hot to warm with the passing of air over it
2. Keeps the atomizing coil from snapping from excessive heat.

When the vapor is barely noticeable, I STOP! I do not keep burning the thing when there is nothing left to burn. On this last cleaning I washed my atomizer in a shot glass with vodka, blue hard into each end to flush out any gunk and put it back in the glass, I saw a few specs of black sediment poor out to the bottom of the glass.


REMEMBER, REMEMBER, REMEMBER when your atomizer is dry, it needs to be primed! This is eCIG 101 here folks, you need to follow up with 2-3 drops of juice on the mesh wick and 1 down into the atomizer itself. After that I replace the cart, take a couple starter puffs to break the atomizer in again, and vape as normal.