My BD13 setup.

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BJ43

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What is that made of and why is it not causing a dead short???

It is made from an aluminum sheet that came in the MVP box. It does not touch any positive contact, so no short. After shaping I coat it with high temp potting epoxy just to be sure and seal the aluminum. I am thinking of leaving it permanent and filling the back of the cap with potting epoxy.

 
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VV_James

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It is made from an aluminum sheet that came in the MVP box. It does not touch any positive contact, so no short. After shaping I coat it with high temp potting epoxy just to be sure and seal the aluminum. I am thinking of leaving it permanent and filling the back of the cap with potting epoxy.


Cool! The only place you've lost me is, shouldn't that be rotated (to expose the coil from the side) so the hole in the cap is next to the coil?
 

VV_James

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The air hole in the cap goes right in front of the coil...


Oh... Looking at the picture, I would have thought you would want it about 45-50 degrees clockwise from there, But I can see where the angle you're pointing to might cause that shield to create a vapor vortex, actually increasing vapor production, and possibly throat hit.
Cool!
 

BJ43

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Oh... Looking at the picture, I would have thought you would want it about 45-50 degrees clockwise from there, But I can see where the angle you're pointing to might cause that shield to create a vapor vortex, actually increasing vapor production, and possibly throat hit.
Cool!
Vapor vortex is a myth, physically impossible.
The only solution I have found. Reduce the cap volume period. Most of the other is bull, as an Aero Eng and some knowledge in aerodynamics all that talk of vortex, turbulence, and passing the air past the coil multiple times, physically impossible. A couple of years ago we did wind tunnel tests by drawing smoke thru the cap air hole while having a vacuum on the mouth piece equivalent to a normal draw. No matter how we aimed the smoke using a needle, putting vanes in the cap, different positions of the air inlet, including under the coil. We used needles and slots of many shapes and sizes. Conclusion, we never got any rotation "vortex". Needless to say we used a transparent, cap. In aerodynamics you look at one molecule of air (vapor) and what it does. It enters thru the air hole with velocity but it is immediately effected by very strong draw (up) there is no way to keep it spinning around to pass by the coil multiple times.
 
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VV_James

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Vapor vortex is a myth, physically impossible.
The only solution I have found. Reduce the cap volume period. Most of the other is bull, as an Aero Eng and some knowledge in aerodynamics all that talk of vortex, turbulence, and passing the air past the coil multiple times, physically impossible. A couple of years ago we did wind tunnel tests by drawing smoke thru the cap air hole while having a vacuum on the mouth piece equivalent to a normal draw. No matter how we aimed the smoke using a needle, putting vanes in the cap, different positions of the air inlet, including under the coil. We used needles and slots of many shapes and sizes. Conclusion, we never got any rotation "vortex". Needless to say we used a transparent, cap. In aerodynamics you look at one molecule of air (vapor) and what it does. It enters thru the air hole with velocity but it is immediately effected by very strong draw (up) there is no way to keep it spinning around to pass by the coil multiple times.

Well Slap My ... and Call Me Sally!
Damn, another dream crushed into tiny shards of microscopic particles.....

/sigh

Oh well... The idea was intriguing anyway!
Here I was having visions of a tiny inverted vaper tornado inside the RBA building up pressure till it was sucked up through the drip tip...

Oh well, thanks for the education anyway!
 

harmonic

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I dont know about the did clones but any time there is gold colored metal in contact with the juice it could be of concern. I still have a box of new Giantomizers I quit using from a while back (last year lol) because I left a full one put away for a couple of weeks and when I came back to it the juice had turned a really nasty black green color from reacting with some of the exposed gold metal under the chrome in the base of the unit (caused by poor or cheap chrome plating). It kind of freaked me out so I really try to steer clear of anything with the 'mystery metal' if I can help it - especially if I can see the gold metal in a place that will be in constant contact with the juice...
 

BJ43

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We all know about brass, aluminum, copper, it seems it is only dangerous in vaping. My plumbing is copper tubing soldered together, all my years in the military my canteen was aluminum. I really don't worry about it unless I see green and then I just scrub it clean. If I drill out a wick hole , I usually coat the new hole with a little high temp potting epoxy. I would worry more about all the flavors we are putting into our lungs thinking that just because they are safe to eat, they are safe to vape.
 
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BJ43

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IGO L modded for BF "a la Quig". 1.5 mm hole thru the bottom of the center post and another thru the side of the center post just below the screw. Hint: to drill the side hole I first did a small cut with a cutoff wheel to mark the spot and aid in drilling. Yes it is brass for those that fear it. So here is my IGO-L DIY carto on a Revolution 2. Ao wick, 30g 1.7 ohm coil, 1mm hemp flavor wick, cotton filler.





 

BJ43

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Lost count of how many Ao wick setups I have tried but as far as Gennies are concerned my best setup is Aga, Ao wick, tank portion of the Ao wick encapsulated in Ni foam, 1.6 ohm ribbon coil, and my diy cap reducer. This is about as good as it gets. The cap reducer brings the vapor quality up to the lever of a Did clone. On an MVP at 4.8v I am getting 4.2v on load and 11 watts.



 
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