My cheap-cheap non batteries powered mod

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sammorris

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Mar 13, 2011
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nyc
That is so awesome! Do you happen to recall what device that charger went to? All I seem to be able to find around my house is 9v chargers. I would love to try and make one myself, probably would save me a ton of money as well lol! mods are not generally cheap from what I've seen so far :(

It was the power supply for the sony CLIE PEG-T665C. It power up the base and the CLIE sit on the base. Try ebay.
Now i ended up with a PDA without a charger. LOL
 

sammorris

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Mar 13, 2011
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Here is another usb passthrough with dual power cable (2 plugs). Also posted this in the modder section.

153mhhu.jpg


and

25zqck3.jpg
 
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Jbchow

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Jun 1, 2011
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Just a little background. I am an Electromechanical Engineer. The key for these fluids as I have found over much testing is broken down to wattage. In case anyone doesn't know in the DC world wattage = Volts * Amps. So the 3 ohm atomizer was designed to run at 3.7 volts and with ohms law V=IR with a little manipulation I=V/R => 3.7 Volts/3 Ohms = 1.23 Amps => 3.7 Volts * 1.23 Amps= 4.55 Watts. So if you intend to run the atomizer with a 5V power supply the atomizer will be producing 5 Volts/3 Ohms=1.66 Amps => 5 Volts * 1.66 Amps = 8.3 Watts. Which just burns the fluid. There are a few solutions.
1) Buy a 4.5 Ohm atomizer which is design to run at 5 Volts.
2) Put a 1 Ohm Load resistor in series with the atomizer. This will drop the effective voltage across the atomizer to 3.7 V (just make sure the resistor can handle the 1.23 Amps) (this is what I did on my Tekkeon mod (MP1860A) To get the 5 Volt 2 Amp supply down. (I did this with a switch So I could easily remove or add the resistor at will)
3) Have a supply which has a limited current out. In this case a 1 Amp supply would do the trick. Also to note most USB ports can only put out 0.5 to 1 Amps.
4) Use a voltage regulator to drop the voltage down to 3.7 V
In your case with your 2 Amp supply I would recommend option 2 or 4 with your current system.

Hopefully this shines some light on this and helps to clear up any problems :)
 
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LibertariaNate

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IME there are plenty of juices that can handle 8.3 watts with no issues, but you wouldn't want to hold the button for long periods of time either.

You make a good point about USB ports. I can't tell you how many times I've seen them damaged because someone plugged in a device that required more current than the port could handle. This is especially true of laptops.
 
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Jbchow

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Jun 1, 2011
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The real problem is that the fluid can not handle the 8.3 watts and burns instead of vaporizes. causing you to calf and hack. Sure it will work for the first few seconds but then it will reach its burning temperature and burn.

Not to mention it may burn out the atty permanently. I love high voltage vaping as much as the next guy but its a limitation of the material.
 
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Jbchow

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Jun 1, 2011
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By any chance does your 5v Box mod use a Boost converter/Voltage regulator? This would be a clever way to increase the wattage while still limiting the current. IE: the circuitry would be limited the current to a specific level so you would get a larger wattage without going overboard and burning the juice and the atty

Check out my mod here :)
 
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LibertariaNate

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By any chance does your 5v Box mod use a Boost converter/Voltage regulator? This would be a clever way to increase the wattage while still limiting the current. IE: the circuitry would be limited the current to a specific level so you would get a larger wattage without going overboard and burning the juice and the atty

Check out my mod here :)

It was my first attempt at a mod. I purchased this kit. It uses a 5v 3a regulator and is powered by two 14500 batteries.
 

Jbchow

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Jun 1, 2011
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It was my first attempt at a mod. I purchased this kit. It uses a 5v 3a regulator and is powered by two 14500 batteries.

Best button ever right?

I cant see the writing on the front of the chip could you reply with its name? I am curious what type of regulator it is. I have a few (like 40) LM350T which are a minimum 3A regulator typical 4.5A. Which makes me wonder if the max is 3A. I would also recommend the 1 Ohm switch it is simple but gives you the option to go 3.7v or 5v for less than 5 dollars in parts. (It should also make your battery last longer)

Switch wiring:
Pin 1 | Pin 2 | Pin 3
Gnd(One side of resistor) | Atty | Other side of resistor
 

Jbchow

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Jun 1, 2011
36
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Boston, MA
Wait...

So the mod you built doubles as a USB charger? Are the 18650s what power the whole thing (charger and PV) or did you have enough room to use separate batteries? Either way it looks cool.

Super simple mod :p
You steal power from the 5v pin on the USB (I would rip it open and take pictures but I broke one of the retaining tabs and fixed it with hot glue)
The system uses a stepping regulator (Very high efficiency) to drop the (Two 3.7V 2Ah 18650 batteries in series) 7.2V down to 5V Thing lasts me something like 4-5 DAYS!!!! When I say days I mean I wake up and vape almost all day and then go to sleep without charging. If I charged it would never die.
OH and because its a stepping regulator the load is mostly across the huge inductor inside and not the battery so very little draw on the battery. Which is SUPER AWESOME!!!
The charger is designed to provide 2A which is more than I need anyways.
 
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