As long as it is the model the cartridge is replaceable and slips out, if not you have to cut it off to get inside and make the "line", a pita.
My cheap version of the ''Line"
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As long as it is the model the cartridge is replaceable and slips out, if not you have to cut it off to get inside and make the "line", a pita.
thanks for the pic its way more clear to me now what i should use and everything. got some stuff comeing in so maybe might get it running by this weekend if the parts come in.i have been looking through this thread and im 100% lost on what parts to order. i got kanthal and ss mesh comeing right now and i ordered those gotvapes ego cones with caps because im stupid and didnt read it didnt come with the carto for it. so all i want to know is what is the easyest carto setup to go with? was thinking the f1 from health007 but saw the vipe vape one and looks almost the same. please if someone can just make this clear for me so i can get to building and help me and my friend get off normal attys.
For those who order from gotvapes with no cartridge and want a 510 use the 2ml Vision, it is very easy to convert.
so i got my atty going from the f1 ce2 and everything works great other then i cant get a coil built on it right. every coil i have made has given me almost no vaper and nonstop hot spots that i cant get rid of. i tried moveing the leads in as close as i could to the wick but still nonstop hot spots and almost no vaper. i dont know what im doing wrong with the coil but its just not wanting to work. i even made the air chamber as short as i could, tried useing it with a air hole and w/o because the air seems to be getting right by the tank and the outer tube but nothing wants to work at all. im lost at this moment.
so i got my atty going from the f1 ce2 and everything works great other then i cant get a coil built on it right. every coil i have made has given me almost no vaper and nonstop hot spots that i cant get rid of. i tried moveing the leads in as close as i could to the wick but still nonstop hot spots and almost no vaper. i dont know what im doing wrong with the coil but its just not wanting to work. i even made the air chamber as short as i could, tried useing it with a air hole and w/o because the air seems to be getting right by the tank and the outer tube but nothing wants to work at all. im lost at this moment.
Pictures would help, I don't understand how the air can be getting by the tank. Do you have any experience with SS wick or is this your first? Hot spots are usually shorts, keep oxidizing until you have all coils glowing even.
I posted this on another thread, it may help:
Great, here is what I have observed watching on hundreds of SS wicks I have fiddled with and looked at under high magnification, with the juice on top you don't want a hole. When the coil heats up the juice boils and rises thru the hole back into the tank (pure physics), this can cause dry hit on a hard draw, also that rising juice ends up contaminating the juice in the tank. When you are off the trigger the juice flows like a straw down and it is very hard to control the amount and can very easily flood the atty. For me the best is a 2 to 2.5 mm dia wick rolled tight no hole and that takes about 45 to 50mm of 400 mesh and this way you get true wicking and no straw effect.. I have not tried any 320 yet. Now when your juice is under like the Line you benefit from a small hole and the heat rising effect on the juice like a volcano and I normally do 45mm around a small paper clip. As a test I made two small kerosene lanterns out of 5ml bottles one with 1mm ss wick and the other with a 2.5 mm wick, the small wick took 21 min to burn the 5ml of kerosene and the larger wick 3.5 min. I also did 2.5 wicks with different sizes of 400 mesh rolling them looser and the most efficient was the one I could get the most amount of mesh into the diameter.
Great, here is what I have observed watching on hundreds of SS wicks I have fiddled with and looked at under high magnification, with the juice on top you don't want a hole. When the coil heats up the juice boils and rises thru the hole back into the tank (pure physics), this can cause dry hit on a hard draw, also that rising juice ends up contaminating the juice in the tank. When you are off the trigger the juice flows like a straw down and it is very hard to control the amount and can very easily flood the atty. For me the best is a 2 to 2.5 mm dia wick rolled tight no hole and that takes about 45 to 50mm of 400 mesh and this way you get true wicking and no straw effect.. I have not tried any 320 yet. Now when your juice is under like the Line you benefit from a small hole and the heat rising effect on the juice like a volcano and I normally do 45mm around a small paper clip. As a test I made two small kerosene lanterns out of 5ml bottles one with 1mm ss wick and the other with a 2.5 mm wick, the small wick took 21 min to burn the 5ml of kerosene and the larger wick 3.5 min. I also did 2.5 wicks with different sizes of 400 mesh rolling them looser and the most efficient was the one I could get the most amount of mesh into the diameter.
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this is my first rebuildable atty so yes its my first time with a SS wick but i did oxidize it first good. i heated it up at least 8 times because the first time it didnt work to good but i know its oxidized good now tho. whats going on is i keep getting 2 hot spots on my coil. its right in between the wick and the leads. i can seem to get rid of them after about 20 minutes of messing around with them but they just keep coming back as soon as i put my outer sleeve back on it and get very bad vapes.
sorry for the huge pics just want them to be clear. btw the leads are not touching the wick they are just super close because it did seem to help for a little while with the hot spots
sorry for the huge pics just want them to be clear. btw the leads are not touching the wick they are just super close because it did seem to help for a little while with the hot spots
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What voltage are you using? Your pic shows a shorted coil on the wick only heating the ends going to the posts. The wire looks like it is wrapped too tight and cutting into the wick, and with three wraps you have about a 1 to 1.2 ohm coil, just with one battery that is drawing over 3 amps, very hot. Try 5 wraps and not so tight, keep oxidizing until you get all coils to glow, only then add juice to the tank.
As in this pic the wire is wrapped snug but not into the wick.
As in this pic the wire is wrapped snug but not into the wick.
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it heats the rest of the coil just showing you what spots are getting hot first before the rest of the coil. its running about 1.6ohms so i got it at 4.3v
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think im just so new to rebuildable attys i just need to get something thats prebuilt like a line if i could ever get enough money for one.
cool thanks bj43 ill give it a shot again. was useing the stove top burner to heat it up and it was glowing read hot but like you said i might be wraping the coil to tight around the wick
too tight and you should be able to move the posts back out. its shorting to the wick causing the Hot spots
Keep dripping a few drops of juice on the coil until it breaks in and produces good vaper, it looks like it is too dry. The coils are hot and no vaper, If your wick is pressing on the bottom and covering the hole it will wick less.
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it was dry on those pics just so i could show you where it was getting hot spots at. it wicks fine atm. thanks SOOOOOO much bj43 for all the help.
couldnt you get nickel poisoning from copper wire? also it will change the flavor of your juice
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