My cheap version of the ''Line"

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BJ43

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Number of nuts depends on configuration. In the pic below I used the bottom nut to snug to the electrical contact (the plug is delrin) and the top one to tension the spring to capture the kanthal. On another one I left off the spring and just used the top nut to hold the kanthal.

In a clearomizer that may not work as well... size would probably be an issue on this config.

View attachment 86661 View attachment 86662

Just curious Teach why are both so long, don't you want one long and one short post for a vertical wick?
 

BJ43

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This is my set up with pushrod holders available at any RC hobby store. $2 for 10

IMG_1221.jpg


IMG_1087.jpg
 
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some87

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I've got another F1 with the pen cap on the way. I made a cheap line and it worked well, but I didn't like the way the shell wiggled on the carto after being cut - one drop and it would have went flying apart. I will press the shell out for this one, should be much more secure.

Has anyone tried using either of these for the drip tip connection?:

510 Drip Tip Adapter for eGo Mega Dual Coil Cartomizer

The F1 seems to be the same diameter as an eGo, and as are these carts so it would save the step of having to drill out the cap to fit a 510 drip tip. You could just use a pipe cutter to get a nice clean cut and throw this in. Any ideas? I should have all the parts by the weekend and will report back if no one has used these together.

ordered some of these and they just came in. they fit great on top of the f1 ce2's. :D no more crappy rubber tip
 

meatsneakers

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ordered some of these and they just came in. they fit great on top of the f1 ce2's. :D no more crappy rubber tip

Same here just a few moments ago lol. Fit very well and make it much easier to use any 510 drip tip.

I finally was able to separate the F1 without cutting - used a 11mm socket and pounded it while holding the carto shell with a latex glove wrapped around it. Took a good 5 minutes and it was slow going but it works.
 

BJ43

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Same here just a few moments ago lol. Fit very well and make it much easier to use any 510 drip tip.

I finally was able to separate the F1 without cutting - used a 11mm socket and pounded it while holding the carto shell with a latex glove wrapped around it. Took a good 5 minutes and it was slow going but it works.
Got to try the glove trick, my hands are blistered...
 

Lazrah

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Got 1 of these in today...
eGo CE2 Giantomizer F1 with Pen Cap
It is freakin' HUGE! I like the look of it, but thought it was smaller. I don't know what the hell to use this on. Looks stupid as hell on all my pvs! LOL It is just way too long(longer than my pvs). Not sure how to cut it to look nice. Guess I will have to build a recessed box for this. I don't need a 10" long pv.

blue CE3 giantomizer with pen cap for F1(ego-W) [F1(Ego-W)] - $9.00 : www.health007.net Waiting for this to come in. Hope it will be a little shorter. I dunno.
 

Lazrah

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Thats what came to mind first asdaq. The giantomizer fits into 1/2" copper tube with a little wiggle room.. Not sure I want to hide it down inside copper though.. Got the stainless cuz it looked cool, now I might have to hide it xD

Oh. so I was going to vape it how it came from Myvaporstore just to try it out. Checked ohm before filling, 8.6ohm.. WTF?!? lol I checked again, this time it read 80 :ohmy: .....
 

BJ43

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Got 1 of these in today...
eGo CE2 Giantomizer F1 with Pen Cap
It is freakin' HUGE! I like the look of it, but thought it was smaller. I don't know what the hell to use this on. Looks stupid as hell on all my pvs! LOL It is just way too long(longer than my pvs). Not sure how to cut it to look nice. Guess I will have to build a recessed box for this. I don't need a 10" long pv.



blue CE3 giantomizer with pen cap for F1(ego-W) [F1(Ego-W)] - $9.00 : www.health007.net Waiting for this to come in. Hope it will be a little shorter. I dunno.

The ones you have coming in are shorter and have the removable slip in cartridge.
Here are the two shells sizes:

IMG_1342.jpg
 
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Jdog

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My first 6 cheap lines I used screws (RC push rod holders) but since I got the V2 line I got 18 gauge half hard silver wire and like it better. The main advantage is that I can bend the post so there is no long run to the coil and eliminate the most common hot spots. With the hard wire you can wrap the coil wire real tight on the silver and have had no problem with false contacts. Coils on these are lasting three times as long as with the screws.

Hey BJ43. Did you use .925 sterling silver half hard wire or pure 0.999 silver. Was reading that .925 sterling silver contains 8% copper which is apparently toxic. I can't seem to find pure half hard silver only soft silver wire and sterling silver half hard. I know the original line V2 uses .999. If your using .925 sterling have you had any issues? If it's .999 pure can you tell me where you got it?
 

Jdog

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I bought the argentium only because it was 930 and half hard. I usually cover the wire with shrink tape and that is imbedded in epoxy at the bottom and in the plug on top so the wire is not in contact with the juice in the tank. Just the end of the post could have slight contact with juice.

Brilliant. I'll try that out. Did you try your cigar juice yet you were brewing? My pipe tobacco should be good to go today!
 

Lazrah

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Completed my first attempt at the "Line" so far.. its a damn flop! lol I don't know what I am doing wrong. :blink: First time actually using the SS(just been sittin' around). is there a trick to get the ss to wick any better? I have done the whole oxidizing thing and saw somewhere to burn some ejuice on the wick. Should I oxidize the entire wick fully? Or just the end? What is a good max height for a ss wick?(where wicking slows) Also, should my coil be lower or higher? The top of my wick is about 1/2" above the threads, and air hole below that at about 1/4" up. Found out that 1/16" hole is too big.. way too airy.

Sorry for the 20 questions, and lack of pics atm.
 
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