My DNA20 box mod project build

[mikepetro]

Well i ran into a problem.I wanted to check the board before i mounted it permanently to the side of the box so I wired the battery, switch and atomizer connector. I put a battery in and it comes to life. I screw on an atomizer and press the fire button. Im greeted with "check atomizer". ok so i adjust the center post on my Russian and screw it back in, no go. I test the wires from the board to the atomizer connector and it checks out. I checked the atomizer connection to see if its shorted, its fine no short. I resoldered the connections on the board and connector, same check atomizer error. I checked again with my Ithaka, same error .

Also, i don't see the ohms or voltage on the screen either when the atomizer is screwed in either. Im at wits end. I contacted evolve with the issue and am awaiting a response.

Can you take a picture of your wiring job and show it to us?

 

[asidrave]

There is not much to show. The instructions on evolved website are pretty straight forward. I used the correct color wires for positive and negative. I only connected the fire button, battery case and atomizer to test before permanently mounting. I even tried the onboard fire button as well.

Sent by my phone

 

[mikepetro]

There is not much to show. The instructions on evolved website are pretty straight forward. I used the correct color wires for positive and negative. I only connected the fire button, battery case and atomizer to test before permanently mounting. I even tried the onboard fire button as well.
Sent by my phone

It was worth a shot, but I dont see anything obvious, everything looks good.

Sorry...... Maybe Evolv has seen it before.

 

[asidrave]

It was worth a shot, but I dont see anything obvious, everything looks good.

Sorry...... Maybe Evolv has seen it before.

No worries Im willing to do what it takes to get it working.

Not to brag but it really looks nice and i took my time and carefully thought it through. I think it looks just as nice as some of the $200+ DNA20 mods being sold. I just wish it would work so i can enjoy the spoils

 

[mikepetro]

No worries Im willing to do what it takes to get it working.

Not to brag but it really looks nice and i took my time and carefully thought it through. I think it looks just as nice as some of the $200+ DNA20 mods being sold. I just wish it would work so i can enjoy the spoils

I am using the same case (but in purple) for my next Mod. I agree, DIY is the way to go.
I will have about $90 in it (6000mAh Lipo), and it will compete with any of the $250 ones.

 

[asidrave]

I am using the same case (but in purple) for my next Mod. I agree, DIY is the way to go.
I will have about $90 in it (6000mAh Lipo), and it will compete with any of the $250 ones.

You know it

I guess doing RC cars at an amature level helped out alot for me when deciding to do this. Im also working on a zapper for resistance/non resistance wire for my Ithaka, I put that aside when all the parts for this mod came and till i get a different capacitor. I was just browsing your "weekender" thread and i wish i had thought of using the top cap atomizer connection you used...brilliant. Well i guess that means i will build another DNA20...lol

BTW...do you have a link for the 6000mAh LiPo you will be using? I may go that route with my next build.

 

[mikepetro]

You know it

I guess doing RC cars at an amature level helped out alot for me when deciding to do this. Im also working on a zapper for resistance/non resistance wire for my Ithaka, I put that aside when all the parts for this mod came and till i get a different capacitor. I was just browsing your "weekender" thread and i wish i had thought of using the top cap atomizer connection you used...brilliant. Well i guess that means i will build another DNA20...lol

BTW...do you have a link for the 6000mAh LiPo you will be using? I may go that route with my next build.

If you do use a Sentinel top cap, consider the brass one instead, or this connector:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1563302

SS (or brass) threads are better. I had some problems with my R91 on the aluminum threads, other attys have been ok but the R91 is a little stingy on thread diameter and screwing it in and out wore down the threads some. SS against aluminum, to be expected I guess. . Consequently I am looking at other cheap mechanicals for a similar opportunity. It sure does make the mod look better though.

The Lipo I will use is this one:
Gens Ace LIPO Battery 6000mah 25C 3.7V ($29.16)
I took it out of the hard case and that reduced the size enough to fit in these 1590B boxes just fine.

I never got into R/C stuff, kind of wish I had now.....

 

[mikepetro]

Almost done

Sent by my phone

Cant really see it that good but are you hooking up the red positive wire to the outside of the 510 connector? Theoretically it shouldn't make a difference, but if you share grounds at all it could cause issues.

 

[asidrave]

Cant really see it that good but are you hooking up the red positive wire to the outside of the 510 connector? Theoretically it shouldn't make a difference, but if you share grounds at all it could cause issues.

Oh no...the red wire was in the center post of the atomizer connection. It just looks off in the pic. I actually soldered it in first before i epoxied the atomizer connector because it was easier to do than if it was mounted. Its now removed when i was troubleshooting

 

[asidrave]

If you do use a Sentinel top cap, consider the brass one instead, or this connector:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1563302

SS (or brass) threads are better. I had some problems with my R91 on the aluminum threads, other attys have been ok but the R91 is a little stingy on thread diameter and screwing it in and out wore down the threads some. SS against aluminum, to be expected I guess. . Consequently I am looking at other cheap mechanicals for a similar opportunity. It sure does make the mod look better though.

The Lipo I will use is this one:
Gens Ace LIPO Battery 6000mah 25C 3.7V ($29.16)
I took it out of the hard case and that reduced the size enough to fit in these 1590B boxes just fine.

I never got into R/C stuff, kind of wish I had now.....

I was browsing another forum when i saw this
For Sale: ***hcigar outlet*** same day shipping! Custom work available!!
They are selling top caps in SS and Brass. For the price...its not bad

 

[mikepetro]

I was browsing another forum when i saw this
For Sale: ***hcigar outlet*** same day shipping! Custom work available!!
They are selling top caps in SS and Brass. For the price...its not bad

Nice find.... THANKS!

 

[asidrave]

Well good news. I received an email from Evolv. Steve from Evolve said to send it back and they will replace it. I wish I got the email a bit sooner as i have it at home and i would have sent it in today.

 

[okdokiez]

OK holes and cutout are made. Working on the cutout for the charger port.

Sent by my phone

Can't i know tools you using to cut the display window?

send from my old school phone

 

[Innocuous]

I'm taking odds on a dremel, drills and a file..

 

[asidrave]

Can't i know tools you using to cut the display window?

send from my old school phone

I used a Dremel to grind the display window and charger port window....slow and steady. A drill press for the other holes

 

[asidrave]

I'm taking odds on a dremel, drills and a file..

......

 

[bapgood]

Are both wires (+/-) soldered to the 510 connector?

You might also want to look at a different battery holder, or at least swapping out the springs in that holder. Those battery holders are notorious for crappy contacts.

A good way to eliminate the 510 would be to hold the out wires to the center pin and body of a carto that you know works.

I'm not saying that there couldn't be something wrong with the DNA, but all my check atomizer errors are always related to the 510 connection or atty.

 

[asidrave]

Are both wires (+/-) soldered to the 510 connector?

You might also want to look at a different battery holder, or at least swapping out the springs in that holder. Those battery holders are notorious for crappy contacts.

A good way to eliminate the 510 would be to hold the out wires to the center pin and body of a carto that you know works.

I'm not saying that there couldn't be something wrong with the DNA, but all my check atomizer errors are always related to the 510 connection or atty.

Yes both + and - of the atomizer connection were soldered when tested. Both my Russian and Ithaka work fine in my current mods when checking with the mod as well as a cartomizer. I tried it with both battery trays, the multimeter showed 4.2 on 2 fully charged batteries when tested on the tray.

 

[asidrave]

Well I ordered a Brass Chi You from the link i posted yesterday along with a extra Brass and SS top cap. I might as well get rid of the 510 connector and use a nice top cap to complement my box mod

 

[bapgood]

Yes both + and - of the atomizer connection were soldered when tested. Both my Russian and Ithaka work fine in my current mods when checking with the mod as well as a cartomizer. I tried it with both battery trays, the multimeter showed 4.2 on 2 fully charged batteries when tested on the tray.

I would test directly from the dna to a carto or something, a low 510 center pin will cause all kinds of havoc. Sure would suck to wait for a replacement DNA only to have the same problem.

I doubt your issue is battery or battery holder related, it was friendly advice on the battery holder. They will read fine just setting there, but under load not so much.