MY FIRST TRY> can someone please give me advice?

[graffinfected]

This is a re-post from another thread i started but i wasn't getting a response. Maybe i will now.. (hopefully)

ok so i got my aga T+ in the mail.. my first impressions were.. " oh man what did i get myself into "

then i noticed that it came with a SS Mesh and a wire along with a couple replacement pieces.. so i said " bahh , i can do this.."

so i went ahead to walmart to find a torch because i lost mine sense i recently moved to Orlando FL. And of course they didnt have any more... so i spent a good while looking through all of the cash registers to see if i found a torch lighter.. then (que the heaven descending music) i found one... " ok cool, only 4 bucks" i went ahead and bout it... went straight home and started to oxidize my mesh.. (keep in mind i have no idea what ss mesh it is.. i didnt know if it was 325, 400 , or 500) no big deal.. i took care of it.. i rolled up my mesh then put some juice on it... set it on fire.. yada yada i then wrapped the wire and tightened the screws ... here are a couple pictures in different angles so you guys can see... please understand this is my very first time..





after this i went and cut the excess wire and you know.. all the typical things you do when you make your coil.. i put some juice in it and screwed it onto my provari and fired it.... i got an E1 error... so i said.. "pffft! great." i checked the ohms and it didnt let me ( i dont remember what it read )



then i put it on my new VAMO (which i love) and fired it.. a very small amount of vapor came off the atty and at the same exact time i noticed the wire that goes from the mesh to the positive screw turned bright orange and popped.



if you look closely, you will notice that the wire at the top of the mesh has snapped ... why did this happen?

can anyone tell me what i might have done wrong?

 

[Blix]

IMO, the mesh and wire it comes with is pretty useless, get some 500 mesh and 32 awg Kanthal.

Your coil snapped because you had a hot spot/short, and the wire is super thin.

Never have liquid in your tank when setting it up btw, you have to test and all that with a dry wick.

 

[Jimmyhat]

***AGA-T Genesis Rebuildable Atomizert & FREE Contest Giveaway*** (Electronic Cigarette) - YouTube try to do it this way. What happened to you was two things.. I think. First you had a short from the sounds of it the other thing is that the wire had to much pressure on it because it was pulled to tight at the top post. When you wrap it around the top post make sure that you wrap it in a direction as to when you tighten the top screw down it tends to loosen the wire. So if you tighten the top down in a clockwise motion then wrap the coil to the top in a counter clockwise way. Also when you dry burn it for the first time to get the shorts out pulse it so that you can see the hotspots but without overheating it and popping the coil. Hopefully this helps. Also I do not oxidize my wicks, its an un-needed process and it tends to hurt the flavor and it hinders wicking IMO. Once you get it down with an oxidized wick try it with an unoxidized wick, when you get a short or hotspot twist the wick a little and the short should come out if not you can poke it a little with a needle.

 

[SteveW]

When you first start testing your coil you need to start at a low voltage and only do small pulses at first. Also, it looks like you pulled your wick over toward the post. This is not a good idea because the tension of the wire against the top of the wick is likely to cause a short where it is digging in and cause a hot spot at the top. You should watch a few videos on coil set up to see how to work the coil to get it heating evenly over its length. The big song and dance oxidizing routine is also over rated. There is a method called the Peter K method where the wick is only very lightly heated where the coil will contact the wick and involves the use of a drill bit to make your coil before inserting the wick which you could also check out. Other than that, good luck with it.

PS. Ceramic wicks work really well and are guaranteed not to produce any shorts at all. You will be up and going in a couple of minutes. Just a little hard to get a hold of at the moment.

 

[graffinfected]

thank you everyone.. for your help..

i will watch more videos and try again.. i know i will get it.. i think that the coils i have made so far look pretty good.. i also wanted to know if i should wrap it around my wick more times. because i only do it three times and was wondering if i should do it more ... i see alot of pictures in the "coil and wick setup " thread and most of them are wrapped more that 3 times.. whats the purpose of this?

thanks again for the help..!!

 

[mullet]

The amount you need to wrap your coils will depend on what gauge wire you're using and what resistance you want to have it end up at. You will need less with a 32 gauge wire than you would with a 28 gauge.

I'm currently using (I think) 32 gauge Kanthal in a 2/3 wrap that reads at 1.2ohm on my Vamo. A 2/3 wrap on anything with lower resistance would be way too low for the Vamo to fire.

I'm wrapping a new coil tonight with 30AWG Kanthal, looking for somewhere closer to the 2ohm range...will probably be around a 5/6 wrap if not more.

And just to add since you're on a Vamo. Wrap your coil and before you even think about firing, let it read your resistance (hold the up/+ button for a few seconds.) If I remember correctly, the Vamo won't fire below 1.2. If you're under that give it another wrap, if it's over that you're good to go unless you want something different than what it is reading.

I like to start at 3V, work out hot spots, turn it up a little, tweak, turn up a little, tweak. Short pulses with a dry wick until you have an evenly burning coil

 

[graffinfected]

ok.. so i have every size kanthal wire.. from 24 or 28 to 36 .. ( i think it starts off at 24 right? i might be wrong ) im not home right now so i cant remember.

so if i want 2 ohm or above im going to have to wrap it about 5 times am i correct? i honestly would like a 3ohm coil... but ill take a 2ohm.

I need to see a video on tweaking a coil because i have no idea how to short a pulse with a dry wick.. lol i dont even know what pulsing means. im trying to figure this out...

 

[graffinfected]

i keep trying and trying but i cant get this thing to work...

i have tried all types of wires.. i rolled mesh twice.. unoxidized and oxidized,,, all i get is the error E1 on my provari.. no matter how many times i do it.

im getting upset..

 

[Baditude]

Keep trying, but if you get too frustrated, put it away for another time. The same thing happened to me with my AGA T+, my first coil broke between the post and the wick. My second one worked pretty good but the ohm was too low for my liking at 1.5 ohm. Had great vapor but too harsh a hit for me...I like a cooler vape. My second coil was 3.0 ohm, but is too high on the Silver Bullet - not enough vapor. I need to find a middle ground next.

Best video for me as far as wrapping a coil and finding hot spots is Zen's for Provape Z-ATTY-PRO Rebuildable Atomizers For ProVari - YouTube. Let your Provari find the shorts (error code); it can see shorts that you can't. Just prod the coil like Zen shows in the video until the Provari is happy.

 

[graffinfected]

thanks again baditude...

i have been trying to do this with every video that you guys have provided.. but still nothing.. i keep getting a E1 error on the provari no matter how many times i move the coil around... why am i getting a short.. i feel like my coil looks perfectly fine.. as a matter of fact this seems to be very simple.. but theres gotta be something im doing wrong.. im hoping these pics help show you guys what im doing and i hope maybe someone can spot something im doing wrong.. i put the provari all the way down to 3.3 volts before attempting to fire.. and as soon as i fire it... boom E1... whyyy?.. lol

 

[overall]

Your wick is a long way from your positive post. Add a couple of washers between the nuts to shorten the distance. Or gently push the coil and wick closer and then tighten the positive lead. What gauge kanthal are you using?

 

[vapdivrr]

ok.. so i have every size kanthal wire.. from 24 or 28 to 36 .. ( i think it starts off at 24 right? i might be wrong ) im not home right now so i cant remember.

so if i want 2 ohm or above im going to have to wrap it about 5 times am i correct? i honestly would like a 3ohm coil... but ill take a 2ohm.

I need to see a video on tweaking a coil because i have no idea how to short a pulse with a dry wick.. lol i dont even know what pulsing means. im trying to figure this out...

currently 26g is the thickest. you said if you want a 2 ohmcoil or above need 5 wraps, well it depends on the gauge of wire and diameter of wick. if using the 32g, which is very thin, you need less wraps around wick compared to a thicker wire. so lets say you are using 32g, and did a 5 wrap, and it did come to 2 ohms, with the 30g, which is thicker, would require lets say 6 wraps to get the same resistance, likewise if using 28g, which is thicker yet, would require even more wraps to obtain this same resistance. usually people after high resistances will use thinner wire, in opposite if wanting to obtain low resistances, a thicker wire is more desirable. for the most part to many wraps equals a coil that heats up to slowly. i believe an optimal number of wraps is between 3 to 6. so if you were after a 3 ohm coil 28g wire just doesnt work for it would take to many wraps to achieve this. although 30g would require less wraps in this senario, it also would require to many wraps. now a wrap is not how resistance is measured, its the lenght of the wire. so a 1 inch piece of 28g wire has a lower resistance of the same lenght of 30g wire, and so on. so then diameter of the wick comes into play. if i had a 1/8 wick and you had a 1/16 wick and we both had a 3 wrap of 32g wire, then my wick will have a higher resistance because it is longer. now imo, a 3 ohm coils is just to high, to fire this resistance you must power this with alot of voltage and imo to much voltage reduces flavor and is harsh. i just believe that genesis atomizers shine at lower resistances and thicker wires. a thicker wire is just better for power to be pushed through, well it really isnt being pushed through, it just flows, now with a thinner wire it is pushed through. anyways this is why they are rebuildables, it is nice to experiment in time with different set-ups to see what is your sweet spot. personally i go the opposite way, my normal set-up is around 1 ohm. this produces a much thicker vapor with out the heat or harshness. now most vv devices will not handle such low resistances, so a mechanical mod is used for these lower resistances. so welcome to the world of rebuildables and good luck, it takes time and patience, but in the end they are awesome devices, and produce the best vapes out there.

 

[shortee611]

I just uploaded a YouTube video on wick and coils. I do it a little different. Hope it helps.

500 Mesh wick and twisted 32awg coil - YouTube

 

[StaircaseWit]

thanks again baditude...

i have been trying to do this with every video that you guys have provided.. but still nothing.. i keep getting a E1 error on the provari no matter how many times i move the coil around... why am i getting a short.. i feel like my coil looks perfectly fine.. as a matter of fact this seems to be very simple.. but theres gotta be something im doing wrong.. im hoping these pics help show you guys what im doing and i hope maybe someone can spot something im doing wrong.. i put the provari all the way down to 3.3 volts before attempting to fire.. and as soon as i fire it... boom E1... whyyy?.. lol

View attachment 182250 View attachment 182251

As we know, E1 means a hard short on the Provari.

Anytime I've had an E1 on a perfect-looking coil on the Provari (provided your wick is oxidized) is when the center post nuts weren't making good enough contact with the wire. Take the wick out if possible and fire the coil without the wick. If it's still an E1, remove the nuts and re-do the top coil connection.

I ripped out a perfectly good coil this weekend due to that very problem. Everything looked perfect and I got frustrated with the E1s and pulled the wick (destroying the coil -- wick was too big for it), but it fired fine after re-doing the positive connection.

 

[graffinfected]

at this try i am using a 36g kanthal wire... i wrapped the top wire to the positive post twice around then screwed it on tight.. you really think it needs to be closer to the center post?

 

[graffinfected]

As we know, E1 means a hard short on the Provari.

Anytime I've had an E1 on a perfect-looking coil on the Provari (provided your wick is oxidized) is when the center post nuts weren't making good enough contact with the wire. Take the wick out if possible and fire the coil without the wick. If it's still an E1, remove the nuts and re-do the top coil connection.

I ripped out a perfectly good coil this weekend due to that very problem. Everything looked perfect and I got frustrated with the E1s and pulled the wick (destroying the coil -- wick was too big for it), but it fired fine after re-doing the positive connection.

thank you i will try this out.

 

[StaircaseWit]

at this try i am using a 36g kanthal wire... i wrapped the top wire to the positive post twice around then screwed it on tight.. you really think it needs to be closer to the center post?

Not closer. You just have to make sure it's making contact "well enough" so that the Provari doesn't detect a short. If you have the center nuts with their concave side toward the wire, flip them around. You want two "flat" nut sides grabbing the wire.

And "twice around" reminds me of the coil I ripped out this weekend with one wrap around the center post. Don't do that. Put it under the nut and bring it half-way around, and tighten.

Other than that, check your silicone grommets on both the top and bottom of the center post. Positive touching negative is the definition of a short.

 

[graffinfected]

currently 26g is the thickest. you said if you want a 2 ohmcoil or above need 5 wraps, well it depends on the gauge of wire and diameter of wick. if using the 32g, which is very thin, you need less wraps around wick compared to a thicker wire. so lets say you are using 32g, and did a 5 wrap, and it did come to 2 ohms, with the 30g, which is thicker, would require lets say 6 wraps to get the same resistance, likewise if using 28g, which is thicker yet, would require even more wraps to obtain this same resistance. usually people after high resistances will use thinner wire, in opposite if wanting to obtain low resistances, a thicker wire is more desirable. for the most part to many wraps equals a coil that heats up to slowly. i believe an optimal number of wraps is between 3 to 6. so if you were after a 3 ohm coil 28g wire just doesnt work for it would take to many wraps to achieve this. although 30g would require less wraps in this senario, it also would require to many wraps. now a wrap is not how resistance is measured, its the lenght of the wire. so a 1 inch piece of 28g wire has a lower resistance of the same lenght of 30g wire, and so on. so then diameter of the wick comes into play. if i had a 1/8 wick and you had a 1/16 wick and we both had a 3 wrap of 32g wire, then my wick will have a higher resistance because it is longer. now imo, a 3 ohm coils is just to high, to fire this resistance you must power this with alot of voltage and imo to much voltage reduces flavor and is harsh. i just believe that genesis atomizers shine at lower resistances and thicker wires. a thicker wire is just better for power to be pushed through, well it really isnt being pushed through, it just flows, now with a thinner wire it is pushed through. anyways this is why they are rebuildables, it is nice to experiment in time with different set-ups to see what is your sweet spot. personally i go the opposite way, my normal set-up is around 1 ohm. this produces a much thicker vapor with out the heat or harshness. now most vv devices will not handle such low resistances, so a mechanical mod is used for these lower resistances. so welcome to the world of rebuildables and good luck, it takes time and patience, but in the end they are awesome devices, and produce the best vapes out there.

thank you this was very helpful in understanding all this..

it looks like im going to be going after 36 and 32g wire ... even though i most def. will try to wrap a thicker wire also to see if i like it better at lower ohms..

im starting to get this a little bit better.. maybe if i understand it better i will be able to knock this out the park..

shortee--- thanks for the link.. i will check it out in the morning.. along with getting my wick closer to the post like what overall said i should do... (ill do that first...) then ill go ahead and try to take the wick out to see if it fires without the wick.... i just cant stand seeing that E1 message...

 

[graffinfected]

Not closer. You just have to make sure it's making contact "well enough" so that the Provari doesn't detect a short. If you have the center nuts with their concave side toward the wire, flip them around. You want two "flat" nut sides grabbing the wire.

And "twice around" reminds me of the coil I ripped out this weekend with one wrap around the center post. Don't do that. Put it under the nut and bring it half-way around, and tighten.

Other than that, check your silicone grommets on both the top and bottom of the center post. Positive touching negative is the definition of a short.

oooook... not closer than..

i will just wrap another coil tomorrow during my lunch break.. thank you very much staircase... for your help... its much appreciated.. i want to get this working to see what the fuss is about.

 

[daventura]

Also...make sure the wick is NOT touching the bottom of the tank.