my humble start

[Redlig]

so here it is the begining of my mod start. so far i have everything but the dna board here on in the mail. in the mail i have resetable fuses the dna charger mamu screen bezel and some light pipe for some cool ideas i have.

i have 4 tactile switches
the box itself
fire switch with led ring gotta figure out how to make it light when pressed I JUST HAVE TO!
epoxy
insulator tape
chi you top cap
plenty of solid 20g wire in red black and green
battery holders and a few other goodies not really worth mentioning

so here she is the begining....




one question i have though is can i run 20g through the whole thing? is the max recommended but will it effect performance? never done a dna board and i would love to save a couple bucks and not have to get the other wire unless its a better idea.


hehe forgot to add im topping this with a kayfun lite... cant wait

 

[bapgood]

20g solid wire will be more than adequate. Using solid wire might be a pain. I like using fine strand silicone shielded wire, it is commonly used in RC.

 

[Redlig]

Yeah i prefer stranded but already had the solid i have a good iron, silver solder and flux should get a decent connection despite the solid core. And seriouy your the first reply haha i feel the pressure from the mod gods now lol...

 

[Redlig]

Well after doing some testing the led ring for my fire switch doesnt light up anyway....guess that solves that problem haha forget about the light up when pressed fire button

 

[rob33]

If look on evolv's site it has wiring recommendations. Have you got a DNA board yet?

 

[Redlig]

Not yet got hints from evolvapor of when but i have been checking everyday anyway so excited lol. I have 4 tactile buttons might just use one for the fire button too im pretty dissapointed with the one i got. The actually button part is flush and my thumb is to big to really push it in well. Ill just wire it before i drill the hole for it to make sure though but it might not work out.

 

[JonGio]

You will be fine with 20g. I use 20g for battery and atty connection they fir on the chip no problem. My thoughts are always go with the biggest solid copper wire you can IMO. One point I want to make is be VERY VERY VERY careful with the screen, I broke the first two I ever made. Its glass and the connection can be torn off the screen or the board very easily. Good luck with the mod. Im excited yo see how it comes out.

 

[Redlig]

Once my mamu screen bezel comes in ill start cutting holes And doing some dremeling. The plan is mount the screen then mount the board on the back side of it for less stress on the cable. After that probably some foam to help stablize everything. I have epoxy but i dont want anything super premenant incase of repairs or future mods....

 

[Redlig]

Ok so heres where im going with this....drill and tap so it screws on flush and is more secure ie

And with the attty on it

Now if i Do that i can run it to my base and not the actual cap right for the ground? I hear the ss is hard to solder i have everything i need flux silver solder and high heat iron. Im mostly wanting to thread it to for asthetics and more secure. Here is my idea for the center pin cut a small slot with the dremel a little loctite tighten it up the either clamp the wire in or solder it for a good connection

 

[Redlig]

Ok last update for today i think went ahead and laid out my buttons, charge board and top cap. Im bailing on the larger fire button i hate it my thumbs just too big so ill use a tactile button its smaller but actually sticks out so i can push it. Three buttons under the screen middle fire. I decided to do it oposite of the screws figure ill be able to secure the charge board and screen better then just stick the batteries to the back cover. When i wanna open it up batteries come with it for more room to work.

Only thing i cant decide is center the top cap with the lid or without it.....with the lid on would look better i think

 

[opuscroakus]

If your using a DNA20 I'm not sure putting the fire button between the other 2 buttons is a good idea. There is no wattage lock on the DNA20 so I can see accidentally hitting the +/- buttons all the time. Just a thought.

 

[Redlig]

Good point. I have been looking into the dna 30 aswell and it appears it does offer that feature im looking into trying to get one of those...but who knows not really planning out too muck cause as soon as i do plans will change

 

[Redlig]

made some progress tonight made the holes for the buttons and the mamu screen bezel. waiting to do the fire button havent made up my mind yet but heres the progress also waiting to do the charge port cause i gotta think about it. anyway so for some pics.....oh and and thanks to opuscroakus for the fire button advice thought about it more and your right....


the start

before filing


after ahhh such a nice fit....ok i admit it its off by 1mm to the right but i tried to return it to the manufacturer but he wouldnt accept it lol

and with the buttons in...they fit perfect dont even need epoxy but probably will anyway had to push them in




my only question is how can i mount this charger.....can i epoxy it with my artic silver thermal epoxy to a piece of lexan then mount the lexan to the box or will it harm the chip?

 

[retird]

Just use regular epoxy instead of artic silver thermal......the data on the artic says it has a high silver content and can cause issues when used in contact with the opposing traces on a circuit board...

 

[Redlig]

ok cool so if I use just regular Loctite epoxy it should be fine correct

 

[Redlig]

Fuese came in today going to get everything as ready as I can...now to get a DNA 20 so impatient haha

 

[Redlig]

DNA BOARD IN THE MAIL! updates tomorrow on progress made on the build so far big thanks to rob33

 

[kurtus]

Don't place that usb board that low, you need to use like a 2mm platform under the usb board to raise it up or the lip on the cover of the box is going to come in contact with the usb board and you wont get it into the cutout hole. I have mine placed at the bare minimum if you want to look at my last post in my thread and even then I ended up having to grind the lip off of the cover there, just be aware and triple check before the cut is made.

Nice build, will be neat to see it unfold.

Ps, center the 510 with the lid, you'll be glad ya did lol

pps I keep thinking of chit after the fact haha, watch when you do center the 510 with the lid because you wont have alot of room where the lip is and might be an idea to grind there too with a dremel. My cap is 22mm so it is a bit smaller than the chi cap, just watch for that when measuring for hole placement.

 

[Redlig]

I have a spacer I'll post pics tonight

 

[Redlig]

So I'm a huge slacker between work and school and the mod I forget to post pics but this is what I got so far