.05Ω quad coil using ICRs harvested from a 2004 Dell laptop. 6 free batteries, what a find!
He posted a video of himself at the mall this morning.
I'm surprised they aren't using this as an added reason to ban e-cigs.
My Mech mod gets very hot from top to bottom starting from heating coil? Any Danger?
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I'm surprised they aren't using this as an added reason to ban e-cigs.
Thanks guys for many replies. I've been working and couldn't send any replies.
I use a Nimbus clone on a Sony 18650 Unprotected battery at .8-.9 Ohms reading.
I couldn't locate the other mod. But I use EH&Efest 18650 Protected High Drain Battery.
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I use a Nimbus clone on a Sony 18650 Unprotected battery at .8-.9 Ohms reading.
I couldn't locate the other mod. But I use EH&Efest 18650 Protected High Drain Battery.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the update. So different batteries with different mods and same problem? Is the Nimbus clone the common denominator here? I'm wondering if its shorting.
Thanks guys for many replies. I've been working and couldn't send any replies.
I use a Nimbus clone on a Sony 18650 Unprotected battery at .8-.9 Ohms reading.
I couldn't locate the other mod. But I use EH&Efest 18650 Protected High Drain Battery.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Are you "chain vaping" ?
In my experience, if you have a bad short, the button will heat up first, so hot that you can't even touch it. If I'm sub ohm, and hitting it hard, my tubes will heat up as well just through heat transference. I always check the batteries and they aren't usually even warm. Drippers can get quite hot when sub homing. Do you check your nimbus with a meter before using? Make sure you only use high amp batteries when going sub ohm. 20 or 30 amp imr's. That being said, .8 or .9 ohm shouldn't be getting extremely hot unless your taking huge long drags one right after the other.
My first build on my Stingray + Trident combo was a dual microcoil .76 ohm with 28 gauge. The Trident gets super hot, almost too hot to touch (normal given my chain vaping habits) and heat transference will warm up the tube (brass) but nothing that I worry about. I'll back off once it starts heating the tube up, but I've never had the battery get physically warm/hot. That said I've only been a mech user for a couple days, but I've been building coils on my Provari for months, so I'm fairly well practiced.
Just don't let that battery get too hot, and absolutely use a digi ohm checker. I didn't even try building a coil until I went and bought a digital ohm checker for 27 bucks at the local vape shop. Far overpriced, but I wasn't in a waiting mood. Seems to be accurate just fine. With mechanicals, a dedicated ohm checker is a must. I thought I was going to just use my Provari to check my ohms, but the Provari fires while checking ohms, and only reads like 1.1 minimum or so. Also, only .1 ohm accuracy, rather than .01 ohm accuracy. Worked fine for my genesis builds, but I need something finer for the exactness demanded from the mechanical world
Just don't let that battery get too hot, and absolutely use a digi ohm checker. I didn't even try building a coil until I went and bought a digital ohm checker for 27 bucks at the local vape shop. Far overpriced, but I wasn't in a waiting mood. Seems to be accurate just fine. With mechanicals, a dedicated ohm checker is a must. I thought I was going to just use my Provari to check my ohms, but the Provari fires while checking ohms, and only reads like 1.1 minimum or so. Also, only .1 ohm accuracy, rather than .01 ohm accuracy. Worked fine for my genesis builds, but I need something finer for the exactness demanded from the mechanical world
I'm not sure what you mean by chain vaping since I always vaping except when Im not asleep. I just tend to suck on it extra hard when I dont get enough of it
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Kiwi. It doesn't matter what I use but When I use Nimbus it tends to burn more faster because of the metallic top.
I know for certain that the batteries do not get hot at first. It always starts from top atty down to my tube.
It doesn't get too hot for me to drop it. I always have to let it cool a little but I hate the wait time. Thats why I wanted to know if it's okay for me to Vape on even when it is hot.
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I know for certain that the batteries do not get hot at first. It always starts from top atty down to my tube.
It doesn't get too hot for me to drop it. I always have to let it cool a little but I hate the wait time. Thats why I wanted to know if it's okay for me to Vape on even when it is hot.
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Ok - so it isn't starting with the batteries - which is good. I think you are going to have to wait and let it cool - or have more than one mod and/or topper handy so you can switch between them. If something is getting hot it isn't a good thing to keep pushing it.
It will be worth getting a multimeter if you don't have one, which I think some-one suggested for you on here - check all your coils. If your coils are stable - the values aren't jumping around and constantly changing when you measure the ohms, and your batteries are not heating up - then its probably the rate you are vaping at. If the over-heating starts with the attys, and the Nimbus noticeably, it sounds like you're not giving the coils a chance to cool a bit at all - so the excess heat has to go somewhere.
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I'd do the cheek test.
If you can rest the topper on your cheek, then you're okay.
What size are your air holes. My Trident running a dual coil at .3 will get very hot if I'm going to town on it, that's when I just sit it down for a minute. My Omega almost never heats up like that, maybe because of the bigger chamber, or air holes ?? I'm ALWAYS vaping unless I need my hands for something or sleeping. I go through about 12ml a day.
Is the center pin spring mounted?
I had a problem like this, and it was due to the center pin being over compressed by the atty's pin.
It moved the spring off of its base.
The mod still worked, it just didnt vape as well, got hot, and drained batteries fast.
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I had a problem like this, and it was due to the center pin being over compressed by the atty's pin.
It moved the spring off of its base.
The mod still worked, it just didnt vape as well, got hot, and drained batteries fast.
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Kiwivap, edyle, kracker, and the rest thanks for all the helpful info and taking your time to help me.
I will do the cheek test although Im not sure of the limit to how long I'm supposed let it rest on my face.
Chelinian. Im not sure if Nimbus clone is spring mounted since it's not visible. But the picture below is what it looks like atm.
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I will do the cheek test although Im not sure of the limit to how long I'm supposed let it rest on my face.
Chelinian. Im not sure if Nimbus clone is spring mounted since it's not visible. But the picture below is what it looks like atm.
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Kiwivap, edyle, kracker, and the rest thanks for all the helpful info and taking your time to help me.
I will do the cheek test although Im not sure of the limit to how long I'm supposed let it rest on my face.
Chelinian. Im not sure if Nimbus clone is spring mounted since it's not visible. But the picture below is what it looks like atm.
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If it's too hot, I think you'll know within 1 second.
I've never heard anybody mention the cheek test, but it's what I do if I'm wondering if my tank is hot.
If it's too hot, I think you'll know within 1 second.
I've never heard anybody mention the cheek test, but it's what I do if I'm wondering if my tank is hot.
Or the tip of the elbow.
The nimbus air holes are tiny, mine are drilled out to 1/8. When they were stock that puppy would heat up after 1-2 hits, now it takes a few even at .2 ohms.
My mods always get warm/hot because of the rda heat but the battery is usually cool or barely warm to the touch. I've been leaving a slight gap/space between the mod and rda lately and it's helped quite a bit with heat transfer.
All my sub builds only require about a 1-2 second drag so that helps too, they put out.
My mods always get warm/hot because of the rda heat but the battery is usually cool or barely warm to the touch. I've been leaving a slight gap/space between the mod and rda lately and it's helped quite a bit with heat transfer.
All my sub builds only require about a 1-2 second drag so that helps too, they put out.
Recently started getting into quad builds and seems like this sob is getting uber hot all around but battery is still slightly warm and not hot
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