My modded REO, part 1, vaping at 34 watts

[dhomes]

I have to dispute the findings here. Voltage drops increase with higher resistance so with such a low ohm coil the drop is way more than the .3 I get on a regular 1.2-1.4 coil. Tomorrow I will do a test to get proper numbers but with a .3 drop at 4.1 volts your drop would be less with a .4 coil. I'd be willing to wager that your volt drop issue was due to oxidation on your firing pin and possibly even under your spring. Some noalox on the spring screw can go a long way to reduce loss. I will post my test findings tomorrow.

Justice, go to the first page of this thread and look at my photos, I did not use a stock REO, I dropped the spring and I'm using a brass screw for the negative contact

This is also running on Sony 30 Amps batteries, AW or panasonic will give you .1 to .2 volts of extra drop

I think you got it backwards btw, voltage drops INCREASES the LOWER the resistance you have in the system, you stress the power source more the lower the resistance is (measure the drop on a .4 ohm vs a 1 or 2 ohm) as you increase the amperage in the system

I already replaced that coil (.8 on the Vamo, could have been anywhere between .8 to .84/.85 ohm as the VAMo only has a .1 ohm precision) with a 2 mm coil, .7 ohms

Here is the same battery is giving me 3.84 Volts measured at the posts on a new, .7 ohm (an inline volt reader should register a bit higher)

 

[dhomes]

Justice, here is it again on video

.4 ohms, 3.75 volts, 35 watts

 

[Justice]

FAQ - Voltage Drop

 

[dhomes]

FAQ - Voltage Drop

Justice, Indeed,

Voltage drop = I x Resistance

But it's not as clear cut

the lower the resistance, the higher the current you have

the closer the current is to the amp limit of the battery the higher 'pressure' you have in the system

With a higher current the connections give you a higher drop

Here is where quality of the contact materials and contact area come into play

the same resistance on the same batt won't give you the same power on a small nickel / aluminum spring as if you used a 1/8" Silver / Gold / Brass Bolt with a washer

My proof are on the two previous videos, I'm using the same device (REO), the same RDA (RM2) and exactly the same battery, charged freshly for each test

You can see that on the .7 ohm resistance (first video) I get more voltage than with the .4 one

but besides the numbers, the experience is what matters, I'm finding my vapor to be hotter (which I love, I like my drags to be as cigarette like as possible) and instantaneous as possible



Again, I'm loving my REO and will certainly buy a couple more in the future, but I'm happy with the modding I'm doing on this and the planned future ones

tomorrow I'm replacing the top aluminum positive contact bar for a custom made pure silver one

Will report


p.d.;

Just try it yourself, I didn't believe a previous, similar post which heavily criticized the REO so that's why i'm trying it
Build a quick .4 ohms coil and measure voltage
do the same on a 1 ohm coil

 

[Justice]

.2 volt decrease at .4 ohm at 1.5 I got .3 decrease clean 18490 mini used for the test

 

[dhomes]

.2 volt decrease at .4 ohm at 1.5 I got .3 decrease clean 18490 mini used for the test

good for you man, that's certainly not what I was getting

matter of fact, I have never seen .2 volt drops on a .4 ohm on any of my mechs

I stand by my REO performing a heck of a lot better now

I don't use noalox, I have an oxide removing acid that they sell over here (Venezuela), used that on spring after sanding and was getting a VERY big drop

A video of the test would be nice to watch (honestly, never seen a 4% drop on a .4 ohm coil)

 

[pdib]

I haven't done a bunch of experimenting re: voltage drop myself. I'm relying on what I learn from other people's tests. The way I understand it is the same as what dhomes describes. My wording is, the more current you try to run through a circuit, the more its inefficiencies are going to affect the percentage of current successfully making the circuit. Lower resistance, is allowing more current to circulate. So, more v-drop under load. (Meterred with the current actually flowing.)

Personally, I'm happy (very happy) with the vape I get without modifying the Grand. Also, I like to tinker, but for some reason, not in this particular way. Also, I've found (this may not apply here, but it's become learned behavior) that when you alter one part of a working system, it has unforseen effects on other parts of the system.

I think your play is cool and fun to watch, dhomes! But, too, I think it's not safe. Enjoy, and be careful!!!!!

 

[unsure]

I wouldn't know how to mod a REO nor would I want to. I only have wood mods and even when I tried to mess with the finish well......most know how that turned out ....no more Nebula.

 

[dhomes]

I haven't done a bunch of experimenting re: voltage drop myself. I'm relying on what I learn from other people's tests. The way I understand it is the same as what dhomes describes. My wording is, the more current you try to run through a circuit, the more its inefficiencies are going to affect the percentage of current successfully making the circuit. Lower resistance, is allowing more current to circulate. So, more v-drop under load. (Meterred with the current actually flowing.)

Personally, I'm happy (very happy) with the vape I get without modifying the Grand. Also, I like to tinker, but for some reason, not in this particular way. Also, I've found (this may not apply here, but it's become learned behavior) that when you alter one part of a working system, it has unforseen effects on other parts of the system.

I think your play is cool and fun to watch, dhomes! But, too, I think it's not safe. Enjoy, and be careful!!!!!

Yeah, I have to see that test to honestly believe it

We only need to visit the Mech Mod or RBA sub-forums and see what everyone else's experiences are in this matter

Regarding the modding, let's say it's a need to tinker with stuff I have

I've built 3 wood boxes, 2 metal bottom feeders and modded all my mechs & batteries (adding solder to flat panasonic & sonys for use on a provari, works charmingly)

So I'm happy about modding my REO, even if it gave me 5 volts on a .1 ohm coil with a half discharged battery

Let's say I don't like my face much

tomorrow, picking Silver positive contact and I'm going to check if they can silver plate the negative brass screw I'm using. Will post

 

[darkzero]

Are you having a firing pin made out of pure silver or getting the original one plated? If you're getting a new one made be sure to keep an eye on it. Non ferrous metals like silver, alumn, brass that are good eletrical conductors don't have enough spring to them & they can't be heat treated for a spring temper. When fired they may just bend down & cause a continuous fire. From what I can tell, the stock one is spring tempered stainless steel & there's a reason for that.

 

[dominus2nd]

has anyone tried to mod it to use a magnetic switch instead?

 

[dhomes]

Are you having a firing pin made out of pure silver or getting the original one plated? If you're getting a new one made be sure to keep an eye on it. Non ferrous metals like silver, alumn, brass that are good eletrical conductors don't have enough spring to them & they can't be heat treated for a spring temper. When fired they may just bend down & cause a continuous fire. From what I can tell, the stock one is spring tempered stainless steel & there's a reason for that.

the bar itself will be all silver

I wanted to plate the original but the jewelry wouldn't do so on Stainless steel or aluminum

but THANKS for letting me know, I will definitely keep an eye on it

that said there are two solutions:

- place & secure and spring between the black plastic casing and the plate, something that secures its being pushed back to position

- not worrying about it, see, I have a master's degree in Structural Engineering

ANY material (steel, plastic, even a rock) have two properties of interest here, its modulus of elasticity & yield strength

As long as this stress is not exceeded, and not considering fatigue (repeated cycles & frequency) that material will go back into shape once the force or displacement imposed upon it is removed

For 99.9999%, at the temp we handle (0 ~ 40 celcius, 32 ~ 104), that stress is 6.5 ksi ~> kips per square inch (structural steel is in the 36 / 50 / 65 ksi, based on the specific composition)

http://www.yutopian.com/Yuan/prop/Ag.html

the other one is modulus of elasticity (young's modulus), which is the slope of the elastic range of the material in the stress / strain curve for that material: silver: 11800 ksi (steel is 29000 ksi)

I will have to grab my trusty HP 48, but from hereL Cantilever Beams - Beams - Materials - Engineering Reference with Worked Examples

If I know the travel at the end of it (will measure, but pretty sure it's about 3 mm)

the length: (24 mm)

the cross section: 6 mm wide by say, .1 mm, need a vernier for this:

Cross section inertia = Width * height ^ 4 / 12 = 0.00005 mm^4

With these values I can find the bending stress on the bar solving for a cantilever beam (after I FIND my calculator! the heck is it?_, so long as that stress < Yield stress that bar will go back to its original shape

I'm not taking into account fatigue, but that is normally measure in hundred of thousands / millions cycles (and frequency as well)

oooooor, i could just place a small spring below the bar as I mentioned earlier :/

 

[dhomes]

has anyone tried to mod it to use a magnetic switch instead?

mmmmjmmmmmm

 

[dhomes]

btw,

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/409984-ggts-voltage-drop-4.html

http://forums.aussievapers.com/e-ci...0-voltage-drop-under-load-explained-well.html

and a few very nice explanations on drop here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/465215-noob-question-voltage-drop.html

Need to make sure everybody involved is talking the same language. Electronics guys refer to the difference between the battery levels as no-load and loaded voltage. Voltage drop is the amount of voltage that is lost in wiring and connections. Even though textbooks assume that wires and contacts have no resistance, they do. Resistance causes voltage to be dropped when current passes through it. If a battery measures 4.2V and then measures 4.1V under load, it could be the load dragging it down, or it could be bad contacts causing 1V to be "dropped" as it passes through the circuit.

 

[cioranes]

Interesting reads. Thanks.

 

[dhomes]

Ok, uploading results of final setup with silver, amazing performance! Will post soon

 

[pdib]

soon . .. . . ?