My new toy.

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Lazrah

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ECF Veteran
Jun 29, 2011
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Juneau,AK
Just something I put together with parts bought locally. Parts from home depot and Don Abel's. It is purely mechanical, no wires at all, except inside the CE2. Switch is just as simple as it looks.. Spring loaded m/f screw (not sure of name) When pressed in it makes contact with an insulated post in the bottom cap completing the circuit. Only took this pic, can take more if anyone wants.

Should probably add that the nipple is 1/2" with a normal hex cap on the bottom and a plug I found in the copper fittings at Home Depot. The plug cost about as much as the rest of the PV.. $5.50 but I didn't want a hex top on this. Maybe the next one..

Oh, and the rough looking tank I made the other night. First try with random stuff I already had in the junk drawer. Didn't take too much time on it, still uses the original CE2 tube. I love it though!
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Happy vaping Everyone! :vapor:
 
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Lazrah

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 29, 2011
245
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41
Juneau,AK
hey thanks! I really needed something with a heavy base. I got REALLY tired of my copper falling over all the time.. I originally hated the threads showing but they have grown on my big time.

The switch leaves a little to be desired. I need to find a way to lock it. Haven't had any accidental atty fires. Could also do with a spacer to give the switch something to glide on.
 

Lazrah

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 29, 2011
245
39
41
Juneau,AK
in the bottom cap I have a metal post that is insulated from the cap itself with what I guess is just rubber. I just made sure it was centered before I seated it in epoxy. If the post in the cap grounds out with the pipe your atty won't stop firing, so I made sure it wasn't going anywhere. I also drilled a decent sized vent hole in the bottom in case venting should occur. The post I used is actually a "spacer" and it has a hole right down the center which worked out nice.

With the post seated in the cap I just took a random spring from a bat box and put it on top of the post to keep the battery pressed up. With the m/f bolt spring loaded, all I have to do is press the bolt in to make contact with the insulated post to complete the circuit. It is basically the same idea the GG switch is. Mine is just a little less... I am thinking of ways to lock the switch now. For the time being the spring seems to be more than strong enough to keep from firing on its own. Nice for around the house. If I need to make sure it won't fire I just slip a CE2 clear tube over the post in the cap. It is a PITA to have to worry about, but better safe than sorry.
 
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