So I recently just received my provari and I am very pleased with the quality of the device. However my Protank seems to leak like a beast when on the provari. Has anyone else had this problem? It appears to have to screw all the way down to make contact with the center pin. Dont know if that is causing the problem. Just wondering if the protank will work with the provari or if something is just wrong with my protank. Cheers!
My Provari and Protank not getting along... :(
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When I got my ProVari (Christmas) I too started having some issues with my Protanks either leaking or having a really tight draw, for the most part I just actually have to loosen them a little. I've heard many say that the Protanks just aren't that great on the ProVari.
Then I got a cartotank and my eyes were opened, lol. I have several more cartotanks on the way to me now and eventually I'll just use those and keep the protanks for testing juice samples on my Ego batteries and as backups.
Then I got a cartotank and my eyes were opened, lol. I have several more cartotanks on the way to me now and eventually I'll just use those and keep the protanks for testing juice samples on my Ego batteries and as backups.
Not sure exactly how the ProVari could cause a protank to leak - typically the trouble is not getting any airflow when you screw it all the way down - or not being ABLE to screw it all the way because the thread's too long.
Either trouble fixable - best fix I've seen is this: get an Aerotank base for your Protank. I got one (even though i didn't need it with most of my protanks) and it's working GREAT - total improvement in vapor for a protank that was already working fine!
Either trouble fixable - best fix I've seen is this: get an Aerotank base for your Protank. I got one (even though i didn't need it with most of my protanks) and it's working GREAT - total improvement in vapor for a protank that was already working fine!
Ya I am using a backup carto tank atm. But I loved my protank. I may look into getting an aerotank base, or possibly just trying out another tank. Have any of you guys used the vivi tank on it? Or any other tank thats not a carto tank?
The Kanger Protank the stupidest tank to put in a starter kit with the provari. The combo just plain sucks. This combo is the reason I started with RBA/RDA and now I can't go back. I HATE THE PROTANK!
Provape on the other hand has second to none customer service, I was asked for feedback I expressed my displeasure with the starter kit because of the protank and the sent me a vivi nova free of charge. If they included the vivi nova instead of the protank I for one would have not jumped into rebuildables and mech mods so quickly (I made the jump after 3 weeks). This combo almost sent me back to smoking analogs. Imagine paying $245 for a starter kit only to find out it was unvapeable unless you liked drinking you e-juice.
Sorry for the rant......
DEATH TO THE KANGER PROTANK!!!!!
Jon
Provape on the other hand has second to none customer service, I was asked for feedback I expressed my displeasure with the starter kit because of the protank and the sent me a vivi nova free of charge. If they included the vivi nova instead of the protank I for one would have not jumped into rebuildables and mech mods so quickly (I made the jump after 3 weeks). This combo almost sent me back to smoking analogs. Imagine paying $245 for a starter kit only to find out it was unvapeable unless you liked drinking you e-juice.
Sorry for the rant......
DEATH TO THE KANGER PROTANK!!!!!
Jon
I love my protank just doesnt seem to work well with the provari for some reason. I have an aga t2 rebuildable but I havent been able to get it to work well. I have followed multiple tutorials and still havent gotten it to work well.
All of my ProTanks work just fine with my ProVari. I am really starting to think I am the luckiest ProTank user on the planet after reading so many of these posts. I occasionally get a tight draw but a slight twist on the tank fixes it. Never have a leaking issue.
I switched to ProTanks to get away from the Vivi Novas. Talk about a leaking problem! And the inconsistency with heads from one vendor not fitting a tank from another vendor. I used to love the Novas but now I have a new love, the PT 2.
I switched to ProTanks to get away from the Vivi Novas. Talk about a leaking problem! And the inconsistency with heads from one vendor not fitting a tank from another vendor. I used to love the Novas but now I have a new love, the PT 2.
I bought a new Protank 2 with my Provari. The protank 2 sucks. I get a airy draw and the airflow adapter doesn't help. I got a cartotank to use and it is so much better. I wasn't getting much flavor with the protank 2.
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Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
I have 7 pro tanks, 3 of 1, 1of 1 1/2, and 3 of the 2s all work fine on the Pro Vari. A drop of liquid on top of connector but that is it.
It inconsistency. The location of the airhole in the 510 threads varies.
So some ProTanks work just fine (as long as you have a good coil and as long as your juice is wicking well enough), but many don't get airflow at all - seems like with at least about 25% of them, you have to unscrew or you get no draw.
So some ProTanks work just fine (as long as you have a good coil and as long as your juice is wicking well enough), but many don't get airflow at all - seems like with at least about 25% of them, you have to unscrew or you get no draw.
Bummer!
Well, I would try the aerotank base.
It improves the Protank even if it WAS working!
I HAVE been buying tanks and cartos - but I still use my Protanks, too...
Well, I would try the aerotank base.
It improves the Protank even if it WAS working!
I HAVE been buying tanks and cartos - but I still use my Protanks, too...
All my Protanks work very well on my Provari, I could not get the Vivi Nova junk to work for me, I also do not like the entire iClear line.
Different strokes.
The thing that drove my to mechs, RDAs and RBAs was an uncontrollable vaping obsession. I do not need excuses, I is what I is.
Different strokes.
The thing that drove my to mechs, RDAs and RBAs was an uncontrollable vaping obsession. I do not need excuses, I is what I is.
Being an engineer, owning a ProVari and several ProTank-II's and a couple ProTank 3's, and exhausted searching the forums for the right answer, I tore everything apart, measured everything with a micrometer, and performed various tests to find answers to all the problems.
If you don't screw the atomizer into the base tight enough, the pressure from the positive post in the ProVari pushes the atomizer up enough to cause major leaks in some cases. The alternative is to not screw the tank to the ProVari very tightly, which tends to start coming loose often, besides looking funny with a gap inbetween.
Actually, that's the worst "fix", again unless you don't mind a huge gap between your tank and ProVari. I got a couple AeroTank bases, and have done quite a bit of modification to get everything the way I like.
That's another half-truth. The positive pin on the AeroTank base IS sealed and won't leak onto your battery. However, the atomizer still leaks, and guess where it goes? Into the AeroTank base, where it'll cause a noticeable voltage drop, just like your ProVari positive post filling up with liquid. Same thing, different place.
Yep - just about everyone experiences that. Here are some causes and solutions. I like an airy draw - some people like it tighter - to each their own. When you screw a ProTank onto a ProVari, the draw gets tighter (and sometimes closes off the airflow completely). The reason for this is the rubber insulator on the positive post of the ProTank gets compressed, bulges outward, and blocks the airway. There are two solutions for this, and I do them both. 1) Using a metal file, reduce the bottom of the positive post of the atomizer. Be careful not to take too much metal off, or there won't be a path for airflow. 2) Push the bare atomizer down on a hard surface so you see the rubber bulge. Use fingernail clippers multiple times around the insulator, so that when you release pressure, the insulator is concave. Now when you screw it onto your ProVari, the insulator bulges, but only to the edge of the post and not blocking the airway.
Since I like more airflow, I also drilled the 3 air holes in the post of the tank to 1/16th". For me, those two methods have achieved perfection, to my liking. I also recently experimented with the AeroTank base. Oh no, even more trouble. Like I mentioned above, the base does not leak, but it fills up with juice just like your ProVari used to. Not only that, but the gap issue is much worse. Without really tightening the AeroTank base onto the ProVari, there is a 0.75mm gap, which looks really bad. Gaps really bother me, so I had to solve this too.
I used a large round piece of metal to push the positive post out the bottom of the base. The insulator comes out with it, and is very difficult to get back into the base without tearing it, so be gentle, take your time, and you'll get it back in. Then take a coarse metal file and file 0.75mm off the TOP of the positive post. The post measures 6.03mm, so you'll need to get it down to 5.28mm (I got mine down to 5.29mm, and it fits perfectly on the ProVari now). When you're getting close to 5.28mm, switch to a fine metal file to smooth out the post. I used a pair of pliers to hold the post while filing, which greatly helps keep it straight so you don't wind up with a wedge shape (not good for electrical contact). I also drilled the 3 air holes in the AeroTank base to 1/16th" - the difference is I can tighten the draw if I want, or open it all the way up.
To further complicate things, I'm also using the Davide BCC to BDC adapter with the Aspire dual-coil heads. It's a frankentank, but I finally got it where I want it. Feel free to PM me if you want any help with any modifications you decide to try. Good luck!
If you don't screw the atomizer into the base tight enough, the pressure from the positive post in the ProVari pushes the atomizer up enough to cause major leaks in some cases. The alternative is to not screw the tank to the ProVari very tightly, which tends to start coming loose often, besides looking funny with a gap inbetween.
Actually, that's the worst "fix", again unless you don't mind a huge gap between your tank and ProVari. I got a couple AeroTank bases, and have done quite a bit of modification to get everything the way I like.
That's another half-truth. The positive pin on the AeroTank base IS sealed and won't leak onto your battery. However, the atomizer still leaks, and guess where it goes? Into the AeroTank base, where it'll cause a noticeable voltage drop, just like your ProVari positive post filling up with liquid. Same thing, different place.
Yep - just about everyone experiences that. Here are some causes and solutions. I like an airy draw - some people like it tighter - to each their own. When you screw a ProTank onto a ProVari, the draw gets tighter (and sometimes closes off the airflow completely). The reason for this is the rubber insulator on the positive post of the ProTank gets compressed, bulges outward, and blocks the airway. There are two solutions for this, and I do them both. 1) Using a metal file, reduce the bottom of the positive post of the atomizer. Be careful not to take too much metal off, or there won't be a path for airflow. 2) Push the bare atomizer down on a hard surface so you see the rubber bulge. Use fingernail clippers multiple times around the insulator, so that when you release pressure, the insulator is concave. Now when you screw it onto your ProVari, the insulator bulges, but only to the edge of the post and not blocking the airway.
Since I like more airflow, I also drilled the 3 air holes in the post of the tank to 1/16th". For me, those two methods have achieved perfection, to my liking. I also recently experimented with the AeroTank base. Oh no, even more trouble. Like I mentioned above, the base does not leak, but it fills up with juice just like your ProVari used to. Not only that, but the gap issue is much worse. Without really tightening the AeroTank base onto the ProVari, there is a 0.75mm gap, which looks really bad. Gaps really bother me, so I had to solve this too.
I used a large round piece of metal to push the positive post out the bottom of the base. The insulator comes out with it, and is very difficult to get back into the base without tearing it, so be gentle, take your time, and you'll get it back in. Then take a coarse metal file and file 0.75mm off the TOP of the positive post. The post measures 6.03mm, so you'll need to get it down to 5.28mm (I got mine down to 5.29mm, and it fits perfectly on the ProVari now). When you're getting close to 5.28mm, switch to a fine metal file to smooth out the post. I used a pair of pliers to hold the post while filing, which greatly helps keep it straight so you don't wind up with a wedge shape (not good for electrical contact). I also drilled the 3 air holes in the AeroTank base to 1/16th" - the difference is I can tighten the draw if I want, or open it all the way up.
To further complicate things, I'm also using the Davide BCC to BDC adapter with the Aspire dual-coil heads. It's a frankentank, but I finally got it where I want it. Feel free to PM me if you want any help with any modifications you decide to try. Good luck!
I'm just going to echo some other people here. Protanks are terrible. As well as most every other clearo on the market. I find that EVODs when used cotton for a wick are decent, but really they are all just so damned inconsistent. I started down the rebuildable path right after I started vaping but I've played around with some clearos out of curiosity. I was mostly looking for a setup that I wouldn't care if I lost it damaged it when I go to metal shows and decide to dive in to the pit. After trying a few out, I just take a $400 mod with me and call it done lol. Cleros are just too much hassle.
I haven't vaped them in a really long time, but if you're not in to rebuilding stuff you can't go wrong with a carto tank.
I haven't vaped them in a really long time, but if you're not in to rebuilding stuff you can't go wrong with a carto tank.
I have the exact same story. ive never had any issues with PT1 and PT2's. Just got a provari and they work just as great on it too. We must be lucky!! now off to buy some lotto tickets
So, you're a metallurgist huh?.................................. J/K
Not my best by far.. Just a slow Monday, and I'm bored.
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