My second mod - variable volt SNUS

[McDude]

Just finished the circuit for this and the layout in the SNUS can but found that the ONLY normally-closed momentary available anywhere in my home town is far too large - going to shelve the project until I can order a small (low amp) normally closed momentary switch. I want to use the inhibit pin of the PTR08100, but for normally "off" coditions the inhibit must be grounded then ungrounded to vape.

So, in the end, this will be basically a 3xAA box mod residing in a Camel SNUS tin. The circuit uses the PTR08100WVD TI chip for variable voltage. Master kill switch, momentary tied to the inhibit pin, 2x14500 batteries, LED, etc... plus I'm rigging in a female stereo jack and customizing a set of multi-meter leads to terminate on the male end so that I can simply "jack" my multi meter into the device when tuning the voltage.

Here's the progress - if anyone knows of a good (small please) momentary - normally closed switch please past the URL I could add a MOSFET and just use a normal PCB-mounted tactile - but one advantage of the PTR08100 is that it's a switching regulator (no heat), so I hate to add a mosfet which would generate heat - especially since that very nice inhibit pin is just waiting to be used.

Instead of bending the pins, which most people have indicated breaks the connectors, I just sacrified a few oddball resistors for the leads and extended the chip to fit a normal PCB layout.


How it looks in circuit

Basic layout - stopping here until I find that elusive switch (apparently I live in a one-horse town, can't find a normally-off momentary?!?)

The box

 

[traderdan]

Nice looking Mod
post more pics when you get it Vaping .
Dan

 

[JuniorNA]

Looking good. Looking forward to seeing a feed system fit in there when u can compact the internals a little bit. I'm sure u already have ideas of that rolling around. I'm thinking pump feeder but you could do the standard hole punch setup for a finger to squeeze juice

Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible

 

[McDude]

This is the finished one.

Yeah, was thinking of a feeder model and also a boost model - something like an 18650 and PTN04050 boost with feeder.

 

[McDude]

Oops, forgot the URL
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ble-volt-snus-box-my-second-mod-complete.html

 

[JuniorNA]

Nice. I bet if you put a feed system in there and leave it at 3.7v you would sell out like crazy. How long does it take you make one from start to finish... 3.7v. Version. Not the 5v or variable

Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible

 

[McDude]

Nice. I bet if you put a feed system in there and leave it at 3.7v you would sell out like crazy. How long does it take you make one from start to finish... 3.7v. Version. Not the 5v or variable

Sent from my HTC Droid Incredible

Well, the prototype took 3 days. Day #1: schematics/layout/pcb design, Day 2:Circuit construction and container preparation (learning how to work with that thin tin), Day 3: Finish up

I could do one in a full day now (long day). Made patterns for where the holes are to be milled out, component layout diagrams, parts list, etc...

For a feeder system I'd need to come up with some kind of protective grommet to go around the finger hole or use some kind of push-button to press the internal bottle. Haven't worked that out yet, any ideas on an optimal feeder setup?

 

[JuniorNA]

I think you should do a journeyman style feed system. Like you said, a push button of some sort, or a plunger type button so you don't actually have to push the actual bottle. Plus when you do it that way, and incorporate a push button, or plunger, you can keep the hole much, much smaller since you just need to drill to fit the button or plunger through it...then when you push the plunger, that will make contact with the bottle and force the juice up. With a Snus box, i would go with a hard plastic or metal button, to match the casing, maybe even a stainless steel or aluminum round rod to be your push button. THe real question is can you fit a 3ml or 6ml bottle in there with all that wiring, and will you be able to protect all the wiring with epoxy and still leave room for the bottle, and also.....you have to consider what you'll use to feed up into the atomizer.

I wouldn't go the "wetbox" route because that's just a syringe going through the atty connector so you'll always get leakage going back into the box, unless you completely plug out the hole in the atty connector like some people do...putty will do the trick.

I would do some type of brass/aluminum/steel 1/16th inch tubing up through the atty hole...then have a larger 1/14th tube go from the aluminum tubing into the bottle. It's also a plus since there won't be any metallic sitting in eliquid...the only metallic piece will be the feeder rod in the atty connector. That way, you can have the bottle wherever you want...not just directly below the atty. So when you squeeze the bottle, the liquid will push through however many coils or turns you have it, and eventually lead upwards, and through the connector and into the atty. Any extra will flow outside of the box, or go back in and you will not get leakage back into the internal parts, which is huge.

A closed atty connector does wonders for A. leakage, and B. the tightness of the draw. When the atty connector is too open, it's gets too airy, and the draw is very loose. With a closed atty hole - with a tube going through the center, and putty around the side, you get a nice tight draw like an analog, and no airy-loose feeling when taking a vape.

I think i typed too much, i'm sorry. I'm not even making sense.

 

[McDude]

I think you should do a journeyman style feed system. Like you said, a push button of some sort, or a plunger type button so you don't actually have to push the actual bottle. Plus when you do it that way, and incorporate a push button, or plunger, you can keep the hole much, much smaller since you just need to drill to fit the button or plunger through it...then when you push the plunger, that will make contact with the bottle and force the juice up. With a Snus box, i would go with a hard plastic or metal button, to match the casing, maybe even a stainless steel or aluminum round rod to be your push button. THe real question is can you fit a 3ml or 6ml bottle in there with all that wiring, and will you be able to protect all the wiring with epoxy and still leave room for the bottle, and also.....you have to consider what you'll use to feed up into the atomizer.

I wouldn't go the "wetbox" route because that's just a syringe going through the atty connector so you'll always get leakage going back into the box, unless you completely plug out the hole in the atty connector like some people do...putty will do the trick.

I would do some type of brass/aluminum/steel 1/16th inch tubing up through the atty hole...then have a larger 1/14th tube go from the aluminum tubing into the bottle. It's also a plus since there won't be any metallic sitting in eliquid...the only metallic piece will be the feeder rod in the atty connector. That way, you can have the bottle wherever you want...not just directly below the atty. So when you squeeze the bottle, the liquid will push through however many coils or turns you have it, and eventually lead upwards, and through the connector and into the atty. Any extra will flow outside of the box, or go back in and you will not get leakage back into the internal parts, which is huge.

A closed atty connector does wonders for A. leakage, and B. the tightness of the draw. When the atty connector is too open, it's gets too airy, and the draw is very loose. With a closed atty hole - with a tube going through the center, and putty around the side, you get a nice tight draw like an analog, and no airy-loose feeling when taking a vape.

I think i typed too much, i'm sorry. I'm not even making sense.

Awesome ideas and naw, didn't type too much. I'll start designing some options now that you've pointed out a few different approaches. Thanks.

 

[sgtdisturbed47]

Nice. I bet if you put a feed system in there and leave it at 3.7v you would sell out like crazy. How long does it take you make one from start to finish... 3.7v. Version. Not the 5v or variable

It doesn't take long to make tin mods, took me a couple hours the last time I made one. If kept simple, they can be thrown together really fast.