My take on the Infinity Cu LE Cartel.

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hippesthippo

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I tried the "fix," that you offered for the finicky switch. Holy moly@! It worked fantastically. I simply took a wide file and smoothed out the little bump on the negative, as well as the positive screw. The other thing I did was to take a Protank o-ring (those small white-ish little things that come extra in the old Protank packages), and fit it around the negative screw on the spring side of the switch assembly. The result is a much more consistent throw.

With the above two fixes, I'm really, really liking my Infinite Copper Cartel mod. Can't thank you enough, it'd been relegated to the shelf for the last couple weeks.
 

TBCAmor

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I tried the "fix," that you offered for the finicky switch. Holy moly@! It worked fantastically. I simply took a wide file and smoothed out the little bump on the negative, as well as the positive screw. The other thing I did was to take a Protank o-ring (those small white-ish little things that come extra in the old Protank packages), and fit it around the negative screw on the spring side of the switch assembly. The result is a much more consistent throw.

With the above two fixes, I'm really, really liking my Infinite Copper Cartel mod. Can't thank you enough, it'd been relegated to the shelf for the last couple weeks.
I'm so glad it worked for you. I would really like to know how many people have the bump in the center from the plating. It is dangerous I think, since it makes a weak contact unless pressed just right, and it heated my mod and button up once. Also, tightening the button up good is very important as mentioned. Those threads are smooth and beefy, and the o ring needs to be depressed in order to make sufficient contact with the negative pin.

I'm curious, how many people with this mod have raised spots on their contact points? Looks like where the plating got finished. If you do, I'd love to know if you're having issues. This mod is so nice and well built I wasn't gonna give up, but I've now never owned a mod, all clones mind you, that hasn't need modding by me.
 

TBCAmor

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anyone know where I can buy a copper?

I went to a B&M who basically matched the web pricing. I know they are around, on ebay, eciggity might be out but carries them. Search around, they seem to be no less than 60 online. Aside from the pins I recommend the infinite.

Also, the clone is not truly 1:1 as I expected. I ordered the spring upgrade and the pin upgrade from Cartel, and the spring is a hoss and fits well. It needs some breaking in still, as it's a firm throw, but it hasn't hot buttoned at all with it. It does shorten the throw a bit since it's thicker, so the battery has to be good and snug. I also noaloxed my threads since tightening enough for the battery gasket to be pushed down was wearing on them already. I highly suggest this. These are beefy threads, but copper on copper when needing a tight fit is bad, I could tell I was gonna ruin them. Smooth as butter now.

The pins will screw in, just not far enough in the button, or the positive. Since they only made a small amount of these I'm probably stuck with 15 buck silver pins. Might put them on the classifieds, but I doubt I'll get a bite. The authentic pins are flat, btw. I kinda expected the pins not to work out, but I wanted to order them to see.
 
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melodiousThunk

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I'm so glad it worked for you. I would really like to know how many people have the bump in the center from the plating. It is dangerous I think, since it makes a weak contact unless pressed just right, and it heated my mod and button up once. Also, tightening the button up good is very important as mentioned. Those threads are smooth and beefy, and the o ring needs to be depressed in order to make sufficient contact with the negative pin.

I'm curious, how many people with this mod have raised spots on their contact points? Looks like where the plating got finished. If you do, I'd love to know if you're having issues. This mod is so nice and well built I wasn't gonna give up, but I've now never owned a mod, all clones mind you, that hasn't need modding by me.

I can just give you my experience and maybe after a while, we'll figure out how wide-spread the plating issue is. I had been waiting impatiently for a couple of weeks, finally got it this Saturday and it's rarely left my hands. Mine fires beautifully, perfect contact every time. The firing button is really solid, and throws straight.

But when I first took it out of the (....ing crazy-heavy) box, I spent a lot of time going over the joint, partially in awe and partially to check out where they might have cut corners. The weight is incredible, the thickness of the walls, the engraving, the details of the machining. Checked the threads next: butter, unbelievable! Then I got into the pins. And that's where I noticed things were a bit raggedy: the adjustment pins on the top cap could be more solid, and the plating was rough. I didn't have any burrs that interfered with firing, but the plating around the edges and the sides was uneven with tiny burrs and "tails" around the knurled tops. I'm going to check it again after reading your post, also because I can't stop vaping & investigating this thing. It's my favorite mod in my collection by far.

One thing I noticed, being really careful with the threads at first (it's copper after all and they did a great job IMO), was that it took a good bit of adjustment of all the pins to get it to fire perfectly with different attys, the different tubes and different batts, incl. Efest flat-top 18500 reds vs the new flat-top purps. But now I've got everything arranged pretty well so I only have to adjust rarely. And I have been vaping this thing non-stop. Happily lost the whole day I got it from my mail guy.

Yeah, I love this thing. Can't believe it's a clone. Congrats to all on their new Cartel clones. Please keep posting info. This is one mod I want to keep in perfect condition. I love it so much.
 

tayone415

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Okay so I officially have the coolest g/f ever. I saw this bad boy online at eciggity originally, and really liked the design, so I watched a ton of video reviews and read the only other review for this mod on here and decided to pull the trigger given the mostly positive response to this iteration of the cartel. Idk if I shared this but I recently lost my job and my apartment, my girl knowing how down on my luck I've been decided to order this mod for me but when she went to check it out, it was out of stock. After doing a longer search for it we found it in stock at blackcloudvapor for a relatively decent price compared to the only other sites that still had it in stock. After seeing that their stock was also pretty low, she emailed the guys there and asked if it was possible to hold one until her pay day, and they said that it would be no problem at all. On Friday we ordered it, and today it arrived in the mail. After chain vaping it for most of the day I can easily say that this mod feels made for me. :D.

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It comes in a nice box, kinda wish it was metal but whatever.

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The sites description wasn't lying about the thickness of it, this thing is really beastly. And the best part about it is how clean all the tubes came, no need to clean anything at all ( I still gave a quick once over, especially the switch).

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I'm very happy with the throw, smooth as ever, and has fired every time I've hit it.And I must say the engraving on this thing is pretty top notch

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Silver plated pins are also a huge plus.

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The threading on this is also top notch

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Thought I would end up with a number in the thousands, I was pleasantly surprised.

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It's already developing a nice patina!

Overall I'm extremely pleased with this, from the wonderful customer service to the brilliant craftsmanship, I doubt I could not be happier. She hits hard as hell, feels sooooooooo freaking good in the hand, has yet to auto fire on me and I've been toting her around in my pocket all day. For sure the best clone I've held to date. Now all I need is a copper stillare ;)

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My cu mod collection has begun!

The reasons why it hits better than your SS Nemesis clone is becauase copper is a more conductive metal than SS and because of the single tube design (doesn't relate with the Nemesis 350 mode) and better threading.

That was the last clone I bought, it worked pretty good, the only heads up I'd give you is to be careful with it in pockets, even with the recessed button I had it auto fire in my jacket pocket once, and careful polishing it, the etching isn't as deep as it looks, I rubbed off a good amount of it after about 3-4 good polishes.
 

VapingTurtle

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The reasons why it hits better than your SS Nemesis clone is becauase copper is a more conductive metal than SS ...

I say "myth".

Measure the resistance of a 65mm copper tube. Measure the resistance of a 65mm brass tube. Measure the resistance of a 65mm SS tube. No difference over that short a length and that much mass.

Any voltage drop in your mod is from the contact surfaces (threads, and more so the switch and 510 connection), and most of all the internal resistance of the battery under a load.

The tube material is purely cosmetic.
 

TBCAmor

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I recommend the upgraded spring from cartel. It fits fine, and with some working in, it's way smoother. I don't think it would be possible for this to fire on accident now. With a full kayfun I can put the weight on one finger and the mod doesn't budge. No hot button since, too. For 3.99 it's worth it, just don't get the pins, lol. 15 down the drain.

I also recommend noalox for this mod. Those buttery threads were squeking a bit after about a week, since the gasket for the battery needs to be compressed, thus a snug fit is necessary. I'm careful with my stuff, too, so I'd keep an eye on it. Besides, this is my first noalox experience, but the stuff is awesome.

I still wanna know if more of you owners have the raised center on there pins. I bought mine at a B&M and if they aren't all like that, I'm gonna show them what I had to do, and see if they'll give me new pins from another shipment. I don't really care since it's a champ now, hits at least as hard as my Akuma. However, if I can get correct pins I'm gonna try. All of the ones in the store were the same, so I don't know if it's a bad batch, or just a sloppy design, which affects some more than others.
 

tayone415

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I say "myth".

Measure the resistance of a 65mm copper tube. Measure the resistance of a 65mm brass tube. Measure the resistance of a 65mm SS tube. No difference over that short a length and that much mass.

Any voltage drop in your mod is from the contact surfaces (threads, and more so the switch and 510 connection), and most of all the internal resistance of the battery under a load.

The tube material is purely cosmetic.

So if it makes no difference, why did I get different results using 2 of the same mods 1 copper, 1 SS and same atty and using 2 new fully charged VTC5s, and the Copper had less of a voltage drop with testing and a harder hitting vape everytime?

But, yes threading makes a difference since the Cartel, authentic or clone is a single tube, where the Nemesis has extension tubes to support different battery sizes.

I found this video on youtube doing voltage drop tests against 2 hcigar nemesis clones one brass and one ss. It also shows a difference and at even lower sub ohms voltage drop is more noticeable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAA4bev5jnw
 
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VapingTurtle

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So if it makes no difference, why did I get different results using 2 of the same mods 1 copper, 1 SS and same atty and using 2 new fully charged VTC5s, and the Copper had less of a voltage drop with testing and a harder hitting vape everytime?
...

Contact resistance and battery characteristics.

Your tube is very roughly 66mm2, the equivalent of about an AGW 00 gauge wire. That has resistance of about 0.26 ohms per kilometer in copper. Brass is around 4 times more resistance depending upon the alloy composition.

If your PV is a football field long it really is gonna make a difference!



This isn't a new discussion. See: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...yth-busters-stainless-steel-conductivity.html



ninja edit: By the way, contact resistance is as much (or more) about tension, smoothness and cleanliness than it is about what metal is used, too. And internal battery resistance varies among individual cells, not just brands and models.
 
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snow blind

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Speaking of this mod...anyone happen to have a this Copper Cartel match with a Copper Tobh Atty?

I have this infinite Copper Cartel clone and i can tell you it does not match my girlfriends copper Tobh. The Tobh is a shinny mirrored copper... the Cartel is a rough brushed copper.
 

tayone415

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Contact resistance and battery characteristics.

Your tube is very roughly 66mm2, the equivalent of about an AGW 00 gauge wire. That has resistance of about 0.26 ohms per kilometer in copper. Brass is around 4 times more resistance depending upon the alloy composition.

If your PV is a football field long it really is gonna make a difference!



This isn't a new discussion. See: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...yth-busters-stainless-steel-conductivity.html



ninja edit: By the way, contact resistance is as much (or more) about tension, smoothness and cleanliness than it is about what metal is used, too. And internal battery resistance varies among individual cells, not just brands and models.
I read the thread you linked, and see the same argument, but without anything linked to tests or to any source.

So if you say it's all in the contacts and battery etc and the metal on the tube has no affect at all on voltage drop at the same short length, can you explain how the results of a brass nemesis clone from hcigar out performed the SS nemesis clone from hcigar from the video I linked in my previous post?
 

VapingTurtle

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Tayone, first and foremost, enjoy the looks and performance of your copper, brass, titanium, aluminum, or SS mod. Enjoy vaping! It's all good!

They all "hit like a train" or a truck or whatever. Just listen to prideful purchasers and the profiteering peddlers.

I can explain the results of any of those many tests by differences in the construction and condition of the individual PV. Take three different mods from the same model and manufacturer and test them. There will be differences. There are differences in the build qualities of any given model. That's why some reviews will say "silky smooth button" and other reviews will report "crunchy button". One plating job may be pitted, another near perfect. One copper thread oxidized, another clean as a whistle. Shit happens that way.
 

tayone415

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Yeah, i've seen a few setups with the Stillare, but not really feelin' it. =/
The Stillare is actually made by Cartel. IMO, I would avoid any copper or brass RDAs. I'm not sure if there would be any safety issues with patina, and if polishing you'd really have to be careful to wash away any polish.
 

snow blind

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Be careful with the Stillare atomizers on the Cartel. Lots have reported that the attys, esp the clones if i'm not mistaken, do not screw down completely, 100% flush on the Cartel mods (ironic, i know lol). The black delrin screw in on the top cap is too high... or the post on the Stillare too long and they meet causing a small gap when screwed in to the max.
 

dmetzcher

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Mine had a raised portion on the negative, and positive pins in the center, where it appeared that the silver plating had been finished. It was only raised a tiny bit, but enough to inconsistently fire, and turn a spot on my batts black. It would be intermittent, but both did it, the weirdest part was that it always fired, just sometimes very weak. I've never had that, they either don't fire, or do, but that and the black told me there was a contact issue, and it had to be the raised center.

I love my Cartel clone, but I had the same issues with the firing pin. I've had the Cartel for about a week, but this did not start happening until yesterday. I'm not sure why that is, because the tiny burr (no bigger than a quarter of a millimeter) has always been there. My Sony VTC5 batters can prove it, because they all have the tiny indentation in the center of the negative end where the firing pin dug into them a bit.

Anyway, same details as your issue. It was intermittent, the mod always fired, just with less power when it was affected by the issue, but it seemed to happen much less if I would push harder on the pin. I took the cap off my RDA and confirmed this by pressing normally, then harder, and I saw the vapor production triple each time.

I have a set of small, needle tip metal files, so I used the tip of one of them to press firmly on the burr (so as not to scratch the rest of the surface) and was able to significantly reduce it. It seems to be firing normally now without any issues, but time will tell. If it happens again, I'll get the file and try to reduce the burr a little more.

Also, I think the burr is actually the metal under the silver plating. When I looked closely, I could see a tiny (almost too hard to see -- almost the size of a pin point) burr of metal that was the same color as the metal under the plating.

I might sand the positive post, too, since it is the same, and is denting my batteries a tiny bit.

Thankfully, I don't have the issue with the positive post.
 
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