My version of a Carto Pipe:

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duckie_44

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2whijki.jpg

I like all things PIPE. I also like carto's, and tanks and viva nova's...more on that later....That's where my stick floats.
That being said....I always wanted a pipe mod,ever since seeing the Jazz Carto Pipes and the E-Pipe Mods...Ohh but the price$$$.

But because of time involved in making one,they are well worth it for sure. Of this I know something about,being a retired carpenter and having some knowledge of wood caring. (see avatar)

Since I have most of the tools I would need,except for a lathe.(made one out of a old drill I have) Nothing to do, but make a few.

The pipe on the right is a 1835,in mahogany. The pipe on the left is a 1850,in mesquite w/peach wood trim. Both pipes have a resettable fuse wired in. (Mouser #2920L300DR)

There you go boys and girls...Nothing special here,just a 3.7v / mechanical switch mod.
 

duckie_44

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Very nice! Any chance of a few pictures of how the button works? The only thing that's stopping me from making a pipe mod is the button. I have some ideas, but there are certain parts I seem to think exist, but can't find anywhere.
MattBott here is picture of button:

22c904.jpg

Although the button works OK. It is a tedious and time cosuming process. The Nickel and 4 dimes have to be soldered to a berrel nut with a torch then ground to fit the cap.

Matt...All future pipes I make I will be using the V2 switch from E-Pipe Mods. Yes they are $20 bucks, but you can use them any pipe you make. Plus they are a small form factor.

I would like to say at this time, I got the idea for this kind of switch, looking at a mod made by MastiffMike..."thanks dog"

Matt I hope this helps...
 

roadrash

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MattBott here is picture of button:

22c904.jpg

Although the button works OK. It is a tedious and time cosuming process. The Nickel and 4 dimes have to be soldered to a berrel nut with a torch then ground to fit the cap.

Matt...All future pipes I make I will be using the V2 switch from E-Pipe Mods. Yes they are $20 bucks, but you can use them any pipe you make. Plus they are a small form factor.

I would like to say at this time, I got the idea for this kind of switch, looking at a mod made by MastiffMike..."thanks dog"

Matt I hope this helps...

Nice job of hiding the flashlight end. I may have to make a cover for mine.


pipe 002.jpg
 

MattBott

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Thanks Duckie. This is the idea I've had for a button:

Cut a top piece off of the bowl. Router in a small lip on the top piece and the bowl. On the lip in the bowl, secure a metal ring (Either sold aluminium wire or part of a key ring). Wire from ring to center pin of the 510 connector. Flanged metal cap (this is the piece I can't seem to find) with a magent (may need a metal spacer depending on how deep the cap is) secured to it. Opposing magnet on the positive end of the battery.

Secure the top and bottom with magnets.

Here is my crude paint rendering of it.
Q4vrh.png
 

duckie_44

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Nice job of hiding the flashlight end. I may have to make a cover for mine.


View attachment 154750

That's a nice looking mod road. Did you use the flash-light switch? Did you mod it to be a momentary switch?

I was looking at your pipe, thinking crazy people do think alike.......Mmmmm. "People who make fake cigarette's and then smoke them must be crazy"
 

roadrash

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That's a nice looking mod road. Did you use the flash-light switch? Did you mod it to be a momentary switch?

I was looking at your pipe, thinking crazy people do think alike.......Mmmmm. "People who make fake cigarette's and then smoke them must be crazy" LOL:toast:

Yes and yes. I used a flashlight piece from a old copper pipe mod. I took the guts out of the switch and used a aluminum rivet and a spring and a piece of plastic.

pipe 003.jpg
Iv'e since added copper wire through the rivets hole to increase continuity.



The base
pipe 004.jpg

I'm also thinking of using a regular on/off flashlight switch with a 510 auto switch add on/adapter. Stuck in a small 510 tube.

3923-1.jpg


A thought for your 18500 pipe. You could replace it with a 18350 bat and a kick?
kick_6_b.jpg


The pipe for anyone that wants to give it a try. $2.99 w/free shipping.
ZERO PROFIT SALES PROMOTION HIGH QUALITY DURABLE SMOKING PIPE HAOJUE FOR TOBACCO | eBay

$T2eC16NHJF8E9nnC6IbqBQcmIT1b5w~~60_35.jpg

TTFN
 

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duckie_44

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Dec 13, 2011
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Thanks Duckie. This is the idea I've had for a button:

Cut a top piece off of the bowl. Router in a small lip on the top piece and the bowl. On the lip in the bowl, secure a metal ring (Either sold aluminium wire or part of a key ring). Wire from ring to center pin of the 510 connector. Flanged metal cap (this is the piece I can't seem to find) with a magent (may need a metal spacer depending on how deep the cap is) secured to it. Opposing magnet on the positive end of the battery.

Secure the top and bottom with magnets.

Here is my crude paint rendering of it.
Q4vrh.png

MattBott take a look at this:

jju5c2.jpg


The drawing on the left is" my take"** on e-pipe mod version 1 (they sell those switchs for $3.99 by way)

The drawing on the right is"my take"** on a pipe "Alekos557" made (goto battery mods>cocobolo part 2> "Alekos557>for his answer to my question about switchs (sorry I can't link you....I am computer stupid.

**"my take" doesn't mean I am right...About a "flanged metal cap"...Axle Cap for a small wagon or cart?

Hope this helps.....
 

duckie_44

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Roadrash: That looks good. About the "510 auto switch" I don't know why that wouldn't work. I have a auto swt. in the mail as we speak. I thought I would make a church-warden pipe with a 1425 battery? Not much vape time. Just looking for a small form.

And about the "18500 pipe" "replace it with a 18350 and a KICK". That would work. If you put it plus side down, you might be able to line up the adjustment screw with hole though the botttom of bowl? And if you would like, check these pic's out.

34pl79w.jpg

2ppeih4.jpg
 

duckie_44

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You have been a busy beaver. Some really nice looking cones. Sweet collection.

I'm gonna have to try and dress up my Gandalf with some kind of tube wood. Any thoughts?

View attachment 154953


No pipe stand yet but it's coming.lol

Any thoughts?...Sure, but I don't know if they would be any good to you.....Maybe a brief overview.

Look at the bottom pic. of the 1835 pipe, the silver ring on the body, is a nickel with a 510 connecter soldered to it>a 510 to e-go adapter>a std.length carto>the stem....The cone is e-go tube glued in a block wood(see small top pic.) think turning wood pens.

Look at the bottom pic. of the 1850 pipe, the wood donut with the 3.5 tank cone glued in it, is a transition piece to a larger cone
In this case, the tube is piece cut off of old crutch(I'm a notorious pack rat, so the wife says). If you look at the top left pic. of the 1850 pipe you will see a clear lucite donut on the stem. That is because the stem I used was smaller than the cone.

I don't know if this helps you road....I feel like I am telling you something you already know....

FYI...I turn my own stems. I buy them from a nice lady in Phoenix,Az.(Pipe Makers Emporium | Briar, Quality Stems & Pipe Making Accessories). You can get lucite stems for $4 to $6.00. If you check it out. goto links>Elies Freehand pipes>Ti Jean>Main Street>Jules Verne-Series...These have e-pipe mods writing all over them......duckie
 
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