Necessary to rebuild coils with MehMods?

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johentie

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Jan 15, 2014
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So I have a vv/vw mod with 18650 & 18350 batteries. all IMR high drain protected 3.7V li-mn
My main cleros are:
1) Aerotank Mega 2.0ohms (BDC)
2) Protank 3 2.0ohms (BDC)
3) Anyvape Davide 1.8ohms (BCC)

I was looking into getting a mechanical mod but it seems that this is the route for people that want to rebuild or build their own coils etc. unfortunately with running a side business working full time and a new baby i just don't have time to sit there and make my coils (but i eventually want to)

Is it not recommended to go this route if your going to stick with the above tanks and atty's? if it is possible to use the above tanks and stock atty's is 2.0 ohms ok? or is a lower ohm rating preferred?

is there really a pro/con to go mechanical vs VV/VW? i know the saftey and easy setup and not worrying about things shorting and discharging at improper rates etc .. anything else?

i am OCD about the look of my setup and i really like the look of the mods without buttons (bottom or top button).

Thanks ; >
 
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Sarin

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Ok i'll have a bash at answering this...

Mech mods are primarily used by people that want to sub-ohm or use settings outside of the range that a mod will deliver not just for people that want to re-build, you could do this with the tanks that you have already if you so wished.

If you're going to be using the listed tanks at the stated ohms then a mod will be fine, no real need to move to a mech mod.

Pros / cons in VV VW vs Mech -at those ohms you are using there would be no real advantage to getting a mod, just more complications and potential issues as you stated. You could however use a mech with a kick to pacify some of the dangers.

You could re-build the coils on the two Kanger tanks that you have (don't know about the Davide?) to get the ohms to a different and more preferred rating for your taste if you wanted to and it would give you an idea of the skill and time involved in rebuilding coils + saving you money on buying new atomisers.
 

jpcwon

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When I read the title I was expecting a thread about "so-so" mods.... :D

You don't have to rebuild to use a mechanical device. If you are going to run premade coils/clearos on a mechanical mod, then I would recommend using a Kick2. It will provide you with the opportunity to adjust your wattage, and will give you some protection (short circuit, low battery)......

When I first started using a mech, I frequently ran clearos (non-rebuildable) on it. But the vape was better with a Kick.....When you get down below 1.2ish ohms, then the Kick will start to limit you.....but for what you're trying to do, I think it'll work just fine...

Give it a try!! :)

Also, I'll add that rebuildable attys are a LOT of fun!! I dug my heels in for a long time and only vaped premade coils, but finally gave in about a year ago...so glad I did!!
 
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Ed_C

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I'm using a IBTanked carto tank with SR (~3 ohm) cartos on a mech (Stingray clone) and a Evolv Kick 2. If you use a kick it makes your mech into a regulated VW mod, where coils up to ~3 ohms work fine. It also adds safety features such as short protection and under-discharge.


PS If you're not using a kick and are just going with a 2 ohm clearo, your power will start out at 8.82W at 4.2V and then the power will drop down as the battery discharges. When you reach 3.6V you'll be at 6.8W. You will also need to be aware of battery safety issues as there will be no built-in protection and you'll need to be aware of when your voltage drops down too low (check with a DMM until you get a feel for it), because there's no auto-shutoff when the voltage drops down too low. With a kick, your wattage will stay constant as your battery discharges.
 
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DaveP

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To add to the above, you will just be vaping at battery voltage on a mech unless you add a kick module as jpcwon suggested. Mechs generally aren't much cheaper that low priced VV/VW mods. You can use any 510 threaded atomizer/tank on a mech or a variable mod.

If you go below 1 ohm, that's where a mech is necessary. Most VV mods max out at 2 1/2 to 4 amps. 4 amps is equal to a 1 ohm coil on a freshly charged 18650 battery in a mech at 4 volts.
 

johentie

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Jan 15, 2014
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Toronto
thanks everyone... yah i just read about the kick2...

basically it comes down to i just like the look and feel of a mech mod... i know it does have a little more hassle to it with batteries etc and i understand ohms law.
i know the volts will be drawing off the battery i.e off the charger it'll be 4.2ish and then most of it will be at 3.7v.. which means my wattage will be around 6.8-7W... i usually vape at 8.0W.

i was just wondering if there was some sorta hidden downside to using prebuilds..

i'll look into the kick2, but i am assuming ihave to use a longer tube to fit the kick2 w/ the 18350 battery? like a telescopic? haha i like the smaller shorter look as it fist in my pocket etc....since it's all aesthetic reasons i would just get a Nemesis Clone (i know people don't like clones but at $35 and what it seems to be decent in build and quality).

i'll also looking into rebuilding my two kanger ones as well.. ; >
 
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ace077

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Rebuilding the tiny little coils on a protank or davide coil head is much more tedious than other coils on standard rbas simply because they're so damn small. Rebuilding can be very easy and quick if you know what you're doing, so i wouldn't worry about time all too much unless you're building quads that you want to be perfectly even or something a bit more advanced like that. If you don't plan on rebuilding ever, don't get a mech, but if you're slowly working your way up to it then by all means get the mech and kick 2 and that way you have all the pieces in place for when you want to get an rba or rda down the road while still enjoying you clearos :) if you do plan on getting an rda, i strongly recommend the igo-w6. For the price it can't be beat. Cheers!


Sent from my Fuego
 
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