Need help/advice building
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Hi what exactly is your question? What RDA did you buy, and what would you like to ask? Do YOU Have Building questions? Please clearly state your question so we can help. If your going to be building also, do you have a ohm reader? Before you build make sure you have your ohm reader so you can see the resistance of your build. Just a tip...
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Well that was certainly short and sweet.
How about some additional information?Judging by your question and your screen name, you are a young male whose primary reason to buy a mechanical mod and rebuildable atty is to chase clouds. However you haven't a clue on how to make it all work. Right? Right.
First things first. Believe me and others here that using a mech and a rebuildable atty to chase clouds can be extremely dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Sub-ohm cloud chasing places a lot of strain on batteries. You must know which batteries to use, know the signs of a short or other trouble, how to measure your coil's resistance, and use an Ohm's Law Calculator to insure that coil will not pull more amps than the battery is rated for. Forcing a battery to fire a coil above its amp limits can result in something called thermal runaway, or a battery meltdown. Things like venting hot gas at extreme pressure comes to mind.
Sorry for the graphic photos, but many a new vaper overlooks the potential dangers of sub ohm vaping / cloud chasing for the plumes of vapor without regard to their own or others' safety. Should you suffer a vaping catastrophe, it affects not only yourself but the entire vaping community via the negative media attention.
Please do your research BEFORE you do any cloud chasing with sub-ohms. Learn to do a simple micocoil at 1.0 ohm and perfect that skill first. One doesn't jump into the deep end of the pool before learning to swim first.
Cloud Chasing is Dangerous
Tools, supplies, and calculators that you will need to make coils
Ohms Law for Dummies
Information Resources for Your First RBA
Battery Basics for Mods
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I have a patriot atty I'm just confused about everything really I've built a single coil out of .24 gauge wire it works very good and thanks for the advice baditude
Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!
What is the ohm of your coil and what batteries are you using?
I have a 26650 Hades clone and I just built a single .24 wire coilHello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!
What is the ohm of your coil and what batteries are you using?
OK. A Patriot RDA on a Hades mechanical mod. 26650 battery (Brand?). 0.24 ohm single coil of (?) gauge Kanthal wire.
So, what are your particular questions?
So, what are your particular questions?
Well I was just looking for a break down of the ohms law how the type of wire affects it and why do I need an ohm reader
I posted a link to my blog which explains Ohm's Law in layman's terms. Basically, Ohm's Law as it pertains to cloud chasing has to do with coil resistance (ohms) and current (amps) from the battery. Depending upon the coil resistance, it will draw so many amps from the battery, as shown below:
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohm = dead short ---> battery meltdown
The lower in ohms you go, the higher the amp draw from the battery. 0.0 ohms is a dead short and obviously must be avoided at all cost. You see the importance of needing a high amp battery to do sub-ohms. Drawing more amps than the battery is rated for can be catastrophic.
You need an ohm reader to measure the coil resistance. If you don't know the resistance of your coil, you don't know if you are exceeding your battery's amp limits. Likewise, you need to know your battery's amp limit, too. If you only guess at your ohm measurement from the number of wraps you made, you are gambling with your hand or face staying intact.
The gauge of wire determines the surface area of the coil. More surface area = more vapor. Thicker wire gauges will require more loops to make a certain resistance coil than will a thinner wire gauge, which will not require as many loops. Thicker wire has more coil surface area, which makes more vapor, but has a higher resistance and will take longer for the coil to heat up. Thinner wire will heat up faster, but due to the less surface area will not make as much vapor.
Other things come into play, also. Adequate wicking for the e-liquid and airflow are also important for proficient vapor production. High Vg e-liquid also produces more vapor. Like a recipe, all these factors come together to create the most flavor and vapor production.
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohm = dead short ---> battery meltdown
The lower in ohms you go, the higher the amp draw from the battery. 0.0 ohms is a dead short and obviously must be avoided at all cost. You see the importance of needing a high amp battery to do sub-ohms. Drawing more amps than the battery is rated for can be catastrophic.
You need an ohm reader to measure the coil resistance. If you don't know the resistance of your coil, you don't know if you are exceeding your battery's amp limits. Likewise, you need to know your battery's amp limit, too. If you only guess at your ohm measurement from the number of wraps you made, you are gambling with your hand or face staying intact.
The gauge of wire determines the surface area of the coil. More surface area = more vapor. Thicker wire gauges will require more loops to make a certain resistance coil than will a thinner wire gauge, which will not require as many loops. Thicker wire has more coil surface area, which makes more vapor, but has a higher resistance and will take longer for the coil to heat up. Thinner wire will heat up faster, but due to the less surface area will not make as much vapor.
Other things come into play, also. Adequate wicking for the e-liquid and airflow are also important for proficient vapor production. High Vg e-liquid also produces more vapor. Like a recipe, all these factors come together to create the most flavor and vapor production.
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1. Do you have an ohm meter and just don't know why you need it?
2. You don't have an ohm meter and don't know why you should purchase one?
3. If you don't have an ohm meter, how do you know your coil is 0.24 ohms?
4. Is this the battery that you have: MNKE IMR26650 3.7v High Drain Li-MN Battery?
Sorry for all the questions, we're just trying to figure out how best to help you.
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in other words you dont have an ohm meter yet....
and its 24 ga. not .24
let me suggest you download this worksheet for Excel and play with the numbers and input data it may help you understand some of the power involved in low ohm vaping and how to avoid an incident.
View attachment vapecoils.xlsx
Thank you again for explaining all of this to me I'm so glad I joined this forum for vapers that care about other vapers
First of all, be safe.
Read baditudes blogs.
Watch some YouTube.
Riptrippers does a lot of rebuilds and low ohm coils.
Pbusardo does some rebuilds in his reviews, but nothing crazy and usually over 1 ohm.
Grimmgreen does some pretty basic coils in his reviews as well.
If you don't have an ohmmeter, get one. They are pretty cheap, most you should have to pay is $20. Or use a digital multimeter if you have one.
Use an ohms law calculator. I use steamengine.org. If something doesn't seem right between the calculator and your ohm checker, you my be shorting out (coil touching the deck, rogue lead connecting the positive post to the deck, etc).
Make sure you have good quality AUTHENTIC batteries... There a a ton of knockoffs being sold as authentic, which could have catastrophic consequences.... This is not a place to cheap out. A good quality battery from a reputable source runs about $15.. Cheaper than replacing a hand.
Just some of my thoughts.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Read baditudes blogs.
Watch some YouTube.
Riptrippers does a lot of rebuilds and low ohm coils.
Pbusardo does some rebuilds in his reviews, but nothing crazy and usually over 1 ohm.
Grimmgreen does some pretty basic coils in his reviews as well.
If you don't have an ohmmeter, get one. They are pretty cheap, most you should have to pay is $20. Or use a digital multimeter if you have one.
Use an ohms law calculator. I use steamengine.org. If something doesn't seem right between the calculator and your ohm checker, you my be shorting out (coil touching the deck, rogue lead connecting the positive post to the deck, etc).
Make sure you have good quality AUTHENTIC batteries... There a a ton of knockoffs being sold as authentic, which could have catastrophic consequences.... This is not a place to cheap out. A good quality battery from a reputable source runs about $15.. Cheaper than replacing a hand.
Just some of my thoughts
.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Safety is always the most important thing in my opinion. The ohm reader will tell you the resistance of your build, but it can also tell you if you have a short. If you put your atomizer on the ohm reader and it jumps around, that's a problem, and you might need to rebuild. You should absolutely have an ohm reader for these reasons. Also, after doing a new build, and checking the resistance, you can find an ohms law calculator on the internet. Put in your resistance and voltage (4.2 for a freshly charged battery, that goes down to 3.7), and check what your build will require from your battery. Batteries can only do so much, and they have amp limits, so make sure you do not go over your batteries pulse amp limit. This limit depends on what batteries you are using. I would recommend sony batteries as they hit hard, and are safe and reliable. If you are looking to cloud chase, slowly work your way down to lower resistance builds, so you can gain more experience before you really push the envelope. hope this helps.
You had me up to saying "pulse" amp limit. I know its controversial, but most vapers and the entire battery industry use the continuous discharge rating, not the pulse rating. There is no industry-wide standard for what a pulse rating is, or what defines it. It is an arbitrary spec, and in my opinion is a redundant spec.
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