Need Help! Kayfun Clone about to blow up battery???

[DcMagic]

So I have this kayfun clone tank that I first got when I got a mod... It worked great until one day it had gotten stuck on my mod, when when I was at the store picking up some juice, the lady there took it apart and unscrewed the center pin to release some of the pressure and be able to unscrew it off the mod.

Ever since then, it has been very temperamental. It will hit once or twice fine, but then it makes my battery get hot... And I dont just mean like it is getting too warm. I mean like as soon as I fire it, the battery seems like its going to explode because it is so damn hot that it heats up my entire mod and burned my hand pretty damn good.

After taking it back and asking what the hell happened, a new guy helped out, I informed him that the last lady had re-wraped a new coil, and unscrewed the center pin, took it apart, and put it back together... He said that the center pin would have nothing to do with it getting hot, But after messing around with it a bit, and having no luck, he finally started to adjust the center pin screw clockwise and counter clockwise and sticking it on an ohm meter, sure enough, with even just a 1/16th of a turn, it would make the ohms go from between .6 - .7 and then with another little turn it dropped down to .1 - .2

So he adjusted it and set it so that it was back to a .6 and sent me on my way... However after about 20 min on it, it did the same thing a burned my hand, so I put it away for a month or two and just pulled it back out tonight, popped it on my meter, and it was showing to be .65 ohms, I put it on my mod, fired it and same thing, INSTANTLY burned my hand.

So I have no idea what the hell is going on.. If it is a short or something else, maybe a coil, maybe the center pin.. Who knows, thats why I am here and hoping that someone might have ran into this issue before.

I am gong to take it all apart tomorrow and clean it all out, re-warp it, and put it back together, but I am not that will do much help.

Thanks in advance if anyone can offer some advice on how to troubleshoot what is going on.

-DC

 

[Dampmaskin]

Something is obviously shorting. Have a close look at the center pin, and how it connects to the positive post on the build deck. If the positive post is twisted or loose, it will touch the negative post, causing a short. Check that nothing is loose. The positive post is not supposed to be easily rotated, but if the screw is too loose, it will do that. Also check the insulator under the positive post, and the one in the 510 connection. Loose metal filings left from production can also cause shorts.

 

[DcMagic]

OK, but I for sure want to be making sure I tighten that center pin all the way down when putting it back to together after the cleaning, right?

 

[Dampmaskin]

Tighten it enough to make sure the positive build post stays put and does not rotate. Clones vary, so I don't know about the insulators in your KF clone, but if they are soft, over-tightening may conceivably lead to a short in the 510 connector.

 

[k702]

also make sure that fiddling with that pin hasn't shifted the blocks where you build your coil. If they are touching you will get a short. And make sure they aren't loose.. If you have them separated and put it back together but the blocks are loose they'll just shift and touch and short.

 

[Zealous]

The one time I had problems with my Kayfun on my mech, when I would push the fire button it would immediately be too hot to touch. When I took the Kayfun apart it was the block the positive pin goes in that was the problem. It had turned & was touching the other block thus causing a short. Once I straightened out the block & tightened the positive pin a bit more I never had that problem again. Perhaps this is where you are having a problem too. If the positive pin is too lose the block may be shifting & making contact with the other block causing a short.

 

[Despraci]

Some KFL's center pins can't be too loose or the center block can move and create a dead short. If the center pin is sitting flush or recessed into the bottom threaded connection and you are trying to use it on a hybrid adapter or something like a 4nine mod you may get a dead short.

You also want to make sure the delrin insulator under the top block has not melted because of a short, if this happened it will create a dead short.

Make sure the center post insulator is good, that the center post block isn't loose. Insulators are still good and not melted... etc.

 

[Bunnykiller]

if the center pin is a bit loose, as you screw it onto the battery it will twist the + block around and make it touch the neg block and wala a short.... and heres the weird part, when you unscrew the atty from the battery it moves the block back to a "good" position ( no short) and when a visual is done everything "looks" right. Snug up the center pin and try to move the + block, if it moves snug up the pin a bit more till the + block is secure.....

 

[VaPreis]

Is this a Kayfun Lite clone or a 3.1 clone?

Unscrewing the bottom screw on a Lite will allow the positive block to rotate, potentially causing a short. It should be disassembled for inspection. The center screw on a Lite is not adjustable.

The screw on the 3.1 is adjustable, but I have seen them be dangerously close to the the inside of the 510 threading on a few clones. Screwing it on a mod might be enough to push it over causing a short.

 

[Tinkiegrrl]

If you have the Lite version, try getting the Russian 91% center pin from Fatdaddyvapes. It's an adjustable center pin. Basically, a screw within a screw. It will allow you to adjust the Lite while keeping that block on top of the atty tight. It sounds as though that block may be loose.

 

[DrVonDeafingson]

Some KFL's center pins can't be too loose or the center block can move and create a dead short. If the center pin is sitting flush or recessed into the bottom threaded connection and you are trying to use it on a hybrid adapter or something like a 4nine mod you may get a dead short.

You also want to make sure the delrin insulator under the top block has not melted because of a short, if this happened it will create a dead short.

Make sure the center post insulator is good, that the center post block isn't loose. Insulators are still good and not melted... etc.

This happened on my Russian, a POS mech that my buddy had caused a short somewhere and melted the insulator. Now it randomly shorts. Waiting on a new insulator :-/

 

[DcMagic]

So I took it all apart and figured it out. The block had shifted and also was not lined up with the insulator on the bottom. It took a bit of forcing to get the insulation under the block again. Lined it up and tightened it all down. Put a new micro coil in there. 26g kanthol, 5 wraps around a 5/64 bit. Came out to around .5 ohms.

Works perfect now!

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I never would have thought about moving that insulator back under the block if it wasn't for you guys!

Shots all around!
-DC

 

[crxess]

Never should have been using it until you understood every part and how they work together. As you have seen, it is pretty easy to short a Kayfun by messing with the center pin.
Never turn a center pin on a built unit.
Always check ohms after securing loose parts.

Learn to build and properly install your own coils and know the resistance of every build before attempting to use it.

Good luck!

 

[Despraci]

So I took it all apart and figured it out. The block had shifted and also was not lined up with the insulator on the bottom. It took a bit of forcing to get the insulation under the block again. Lined it up and tightened it all down. Put a new micro coil in there. 26g kanthol, 5 wraps around a 5/64 bit. Came out to around .5 ohms.

Works perfect now!

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I never would have thought about moving that insulator back under the block if it wasn't for you guys!

Shots all around!
-DC

Just be careful that you sub ohm build on the Kayfun doesn't get too hot or you can melt the block insulator. Kayfuns aren't meant for sub ohming. .7 - .8'is the lowest I go, and that's with twisted wire. Since the Kayfun moves less air then a RDA it holds the heat more in the chamber and can cause the deck and block to get extremely hot. If you base is getting hot, imagine what temp the chamber is and what it will do to that insulator. I'm not saying don't do it, but do it with knowledge and experience before you damage your device.

 

[DcMagic]

So I took it all apart and figured it out. The block had shifted and also was not lined up with the insulator on the bottom. It took a bit of forcing to get the insulation under the block again. Lined it up and tightened it all down. Put a new micro coil in there. 26g kanthol, 5 wraps around a 5/64 bit. Came out to around .5 ohms.

Works perfect now!

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I never would have thought about moving that insulator back under the block if it wasn't for you guys!

Shots all around!
-DC

The people at the shop were the ones that messed with the center pin and messed it up... I took it all apart and learned how it works now.

 

[DcMagic]

Never should have been using it until you understood every part and how they work together. As you have seen, it is pretty easy to short a Kayfun by messing with the center pin.
Never turn a center pin on a built unit.
Always check ohms after securing loose parts.

Learn to build and properly install your own coils and know the resistance of every build before attempting to use it.

Good luck!

When the lady at the store did the last coil it was coming out even lower... I had it warped at a .9 and wasn't getting much vapor out of it.. ripped it out and rebuilt it to the .5 its at now.. Its decent vapor. and it doesn't get very hot, maybe a bit warm after a while of use but nothing near even what my dripper gets too, and I wouldn't even consider that to get "hot".

Im running a sony vtc 5 in it, and I will keep an eye on it, and I am careful to fire it and really pay attention to the mod and bass if it starts to heat up to fast... But .5 seems to be good... Maybe ill add more wraps to on the next coil.. But that would only be at a .6 - .7.

I couldn't imagine going over 1 ohm, I wouldn't get any vapor from it.. I wasn't getting anything already from ..9 So I dunno...

Any tips of building a coil over 1 ohm and making sure you get pretty decent vapor production from it still?

I have messed with the airflow, and I tend to keep it all the way open now, especially while sub ohming it.

 

[Baditude]

I'm ise a simple micro coil build for 1.3 ohm and getting great results. KFL microcoil build with cotton

Kayfun wasn't really designed for sub-ohms. Doing so can melt the insulator, as stated above. VapeRev has a blog on Kayfun maintanance:

Kayfun Maintanance

 

[DcMagic]

When the lady at the store did the last coil it was coming out even lower... I had it warped at a .9 and wasn't getting much vapor out of it.. ripped it out and rebuilt it to the .5 its at now.. Its decent vapor. and it doesn't get very hot, maybe a bit warm after a while of use but nothing near even what my dripper gets too, and I wouldn't even consider that to get "hot".

Im running a sony vtc 5 in it, and I will keep an eye on it, and I am careful to fire it and really pay attention to the mod and bass if it starts to heat up to fast... But .5 seems to be good... Maybe ill add more wraps to on the next coil.. But that would only be at a .6 - .7.

I couldn't imagine going over 1 ohm, I wouldn't get any vapor from it.. I wasn't getting anything already from ..9 So I dunno...

Any tips of building a coil over 1 ohm and making sure you get pretty decent vapor production from it still?

I have messed with the airflow, and I tend to keep it all the way open now, especially while sub ohming it.

Thank you!

Is there a way I could get some recommendations on a tank set up that is pretty decent?

There are a few things I dont like about the jayfun...

1, the size, its too long, it would be cool to come across a tank that (rebuildable tank) along the size of an rda dripper, Like my patriot or maybe a little taller.

2. It leaks, I clean it, I fill it, I screw the first thread on, I flip it over, I screw it the rest of the way on, I flip it back over, I let the bubbles rise, I have my finger over the air hole the whole time, I let it sit for a little like that.. Then I vape on it.... However I can NEVER make it though the day without looking down at my pocket and it looks like my ecig ...... in my pocket and I have juice everywhere. I hate that.

3. Airflow, Even when I have the little adjustment screw backed all the way open, Its still a pretty damn tight draw, I mean I know its never going to be like my drilled out rda dripper, but I am sure there has to be some other options with at least a tad bit more airflow than the kayfun.

4. I am not a fan on how you have to fill it, by taking off the cap and then filling it, screwing the cap on a tad, flipping it over, and screwing it on the rest of the way... II mean, its really not THAT big of a deal, but if there are other options that might be a little less annoying. I would love to at least consider the option.

5. Sub ohming - As you all have stated, you cant sub ohm it, I am not stuck on having to sub ohm, but to get the amount of vapor that is at least satisfactory (to me, at least with this specific tank I own) I have to bring the ohms down to .5-.6 - and it produces just a tad bit more than my old school ego clear top fed wicked tanks on an ego-c twist running it at 4 volts with a 1.5 ohm atty in it.

6. Not SO important, But I would like something a little more aesthetically pleasing to the eye. This is big, bulky and an ugly silver... A coll color or even an etched design would be awesome. I really like the etching of the old man (Wizard?) on my Turtleship v3 ss. Along with the color, a nice satin silver. As rip would say.. SICK AS ....!

Any and all suggestions to look into, research and consider are welcome! And would be much appreciated!

 

[SleeZy]

What are you using for wicking?
If you're using silica that's one problem why you don't get that much vapor. Cotton is better.
Whats your juice ratio PG/VG? Higher VG gives more vapor (with less flavor) and higher PG gives more Throat hit(and more flavor) but less vapor. It's not that big of a diffrence in the taste imo.
I run 1 ohm coils with 50/50 blends and getting plenty of vapor.

However kayfun isn't a cloudchasing atty, you have to drip to get those clouds.

Also you could do the bottom filling, i've never had problems with that it can leak alittle bit the first 1-2 drags. Top filling always leaks for me.
Have you tried to use a nano kit for the kayfun? Makes it not too big.

Edit: I do agree on the airflow though.

 

[crxess]

Most of what makes a Kayfun good or bad is user build.

Kayfuns have given users great results built from as low as .4-.5 to highs of 3ohms. It is all it the built of the coil and properly wicking that application.

Mainstream success seems to be in the 1.3 to 1.8ohm range. Probably due to simplicity of those builds.

Mine all run 2mm 30ga. coils at 1.4-1.6ohms. Simple, functional and repeatable. Kicks in my Mechanical Mods can adjust for any needed power increase(rare) and Battery life is very decent.