Need help on coil getting horrible throat burn

[JDC1958]

Both of my tanks, sigelei Elite V2 and Tobeco Mini Super, ran hot at .2 ohms. At .5 they were noticeably cooler and the tips and hit did not feel like they were on there way to frying an egg With the Lemo2 the box is just warm at .5

I guess some of you can chain vape .2 or .3; but don't think that's for me.

 

[FSimon]

Both of my tanks, Sigelei Elite V2 and Tobeco Mini Super, ran hot at .2 ohms. At .5 they were noticeably cooler and the tips and hit did not feel like they were on there way to frying an egg With the Lemo2 the box is just warm at .5

I guess some of you can chain vape .2 or .3; but don't think that's for me.

Well you know.. it's not that black and white. I keep trying to inform people that we're kinda riding the horse backwards.. but meh.. Most prefer just throwing a big chunk of metal in their atomizers that they saw on some random youtube video instead of stopping for a second and thinking Anyway.. resistance is only one factor and like I keep saying.. if we're talking about a regulated VW mod, then it kinda becomes insignificant.. it's just an informative value and not a defining one.. Heat flux is the real parameter people are looking for, and they keep confusing it with resistance, which only matters in mechanicals / unregulated mods

Cheers to you though!

 

[Two_Bears]

Just a thought, Koopor Mini 60, could you have it in temp mode by accident? That may cause unpleasantness. Also did you clean the RDA REAL GOOD after you opened it. May have some coolant residue from machining. Tobecco and a host of others do not clean their products. Several methods posted here on ECF. I soak in alcohol then use DAWN, and rinse in hot water, and rinse again, and rinse again.

Also make sure to soak the screws the O rings the glass drip tip. When the atty grts hot that stuff vaporizes and gets into everything.

 

[Two_Bears]

P

Well you know.. it's not that black and white. I keep trying to inform people that we're kinda riding the horse backwards.. but meh.. Most prefer just throwing a big chunk of metal in their atomizers that they saw on some random youtube video instead of stopping for a second and thinking Anyway.. resistance is only one factor and like I keep saying.. if we're talking about a regulated VW mod, then it kinda becomes insignificant.. it's just an informative value and not a defining one.. Heat flux is the real parameter people are looking for, and they keep confusing it with resistance, which only matters in mechanicals / unregulated mods

Cheers to you though!

Watts and resistance determines how mmany volts are used to create that number of watts.

Lower the volts and you get the same power in watts but needs fewer volts.

Fewer volts needed equsls longer battery life.

Two tanks and RDA handy

All at 11.2 watts. All using single coil.

Silverplay Nano 1.16 resistance and needs 3.6 volts.

Kayfun Nano 1.27 ohms needs 3.77 voltsy.

RDA 1.11 Ohms needs 3.52 volts.

My sweet spot is .8-1 ohms to give me the best flavor and battery life.

 

[FSimon]

You kinda have it messed up... but I'm assuming those are all typos..
Anyways..
Ohms law: P(power/wattage) = U(voltage) x I(current) and U=IxR(resistance)
if you play with that equation you will get through all other forms.. like P=U*U / R and stuff...

So basically what you were trying to say is..
Voltage and resistance define your wattage as long as the power source can keep up with the current required.
If you lower the volts you cannot get the same wattage unless you lower the resistance as well.. (voltage is what PUSHES the current, resistance is what's trying to STOP it.. with both lowered you will be able to get the same power, but with more current flowing through the circuit...eg. higher amps)
Fewer volts needed DOES NOT equal longer battery life... Fewer AMPS needed equals longer battery life..

I'm sorry sir almost every statement you made was flawed, but I do understand.. since people just go on the internet and learn stuff from improper sources.. That's why I mention disliking Rip Trippers in every other post I make.. I mean I do like him, I watch him.. but I consider it more like a show rather than a source of useful information..

And so far we've only been talking about ohm's law.. which barely even scratches the surface.. Reality is much more complicated as you can achieve said resistances with a number of different alloys.. wire thicknesses and so on.. which all heat up differently.. There is no use having a big chunk of metal in your atomizer if it takes 5 seconds for it to heat up... You can throw a hundred watts at it.. and 70% of that power will be used to heat the inside of the metal chunk.. rather the juice on the wicks.. that's why I said you should be looking for heat flux and not the actual resistance value.. so yea.. it's not that complicated.. but it's not that simple either That's why I said we should not off-topic everywhere and just take it to a pm or something.. I'd be glad to help out if needed..

Cheers!

P


Watts and resistance determines how mmany volts are used to create that number of watts.

Lower the volts and you get the same power in watts but needs fewer volts.

Fewer volts needed equsls longer battery life.

Two tanks and RDA handy

All at 11.2 watts. All using single coil.

Silverplay Nano 1.16 resistance and needs 3.6 volts.

Kayfun Nano 1.27 ohms needs 3.77 voltsy.

RDA 1.11 Ohms needs 3.52 volts.

My sweet spot is .8-1 ohms to give me the best flavor and battery life.

 

[Two_Bears]

You kinda have it messed up... but I'm assuming those are all typos..
Anyways..
Ohms law: P(power/wattage) = U(voltage) x I(current) and U=IxR(resistance)
if you play with that equation you will get through all other forms.. like P=U*U / R and stuff...

So basically what you were trying to say is..
Voltage and resistance define your wattage as long as the power source can keep up with the current required.
If you lower the volts you cannot get the same wattage unless you lower the resistance as well.. (voltage is what PUSHES the current, resistance is what's trying to STOP it.. with both lowered you will be able to get the same power, but with more current flowing through the circuit...eg. higher amps)
Fewer volts needed DOES NOT equal longer battery life... Fewer AMPS needed equals longer battery life..

I'm sorry sir almost every statement you made was flawed, but I do understand.. since people just go on the internet and learn stuff from improper sources.. That's why I mention disliking Rip Trippers in every other post I make.. I mean I do like him, I watch him.. but I consider it more like a show rather than a source of useful information..

And so far we've only been talking about ohm's law.. which barely even scratches the surface.. Reality is much more complicated as you can achieve said resistances with a number of different alloys.. wire thicknesses and so on.. which all heat up differently.. There is no use having a big chunk of metal in your atomizer if it takes 5 seconds for it to heat up... You can throw a hundred watts at it.. and 70% of that power will be used to heat the inside of the metal chunk.. rather the juice on the wicks.. that's why I said you should be looking for heat flux and not the actual resistance value.. so yea.. it's not that complicated.. but it's not that simple either That's why I said we should not off-topic everywhere and just take it to a pm or something.. I'd be glad to help out if needed..

Cheers!

I may be mistaken about the formula. The only electronics work I did was 42 years ago when I studied for an FCC license.

I was just reporting the data on my mod.

 

[FSimon]

No worries! we're all here to learn from each-other I guess
So let's run through it real quick..
This is an example that I'm currently vaping on:
So.. I have a mechanical 18650 tube mod in my hand with a very airy direct-lung RDA.
I have dual 9 wraps of 26ga stainless steel on a 2.5mm bit in it which comes out to 0.3 ohms exactly.
[P=UxI] - I know my voltage, a fully charged battery is at 4.2 volts.. I do not know my current needed so I am going to flip the equation around substituting the other part where needed.. I end up with P= UxU / R so let's do the math.. 4.2x4.2 / 0.3 = 58.8 watts. If I do want to get my current I just flip around the second portion of the formula.. and it will be fairly simple.. I = U / R.. so math again.. 4.2 / 0.3 = 14 amps.

Here comes the trick Most people would look at the words 'direct lung rda.. mechanical.. and 0.3.. ' and would prolly laugh or something..
The secret lies in the material here.. so stainless steel has a lower resistance than kanthal, which means I can use thinner wire without having a higher resistance than a thicker kanthal would have. But on the other hand thinner wire heats up faster so I don't even need to go as low with the resistance as I would have to with kanthal to get the same warm vape.. That's why I said we need to look at the heat flux (steam engine actually tells you nicely) rather than the actual resistance.

The results? I'm getting huge clouds.. and a warm vape with a very airy RDA, while pulling only 14 amps from my battery so it lasts way longer. Not only that but due to the fact that stainless steel noticeably increases in resistance when heated.. (that's why they use it in temp control as well) I get a bit of a throttling if I hold the button for longer allowing for a longer draw without burning my mouth or my wicks.. So yea it's kinda like a very delicate 'temp-control' for mechanicals..

For regulated VW boxes I really don't worry about resistances.. I worry about the thickness of the wire (how fast it's gonna heat up) and the surface area..
As an example for that.. I have the new Bellus RTA on my simple evic VT.. it has dual 14 wraps of 28ga kanthal on a 2.5 bit as well.. measuring 1.18 ohms (that's the reason I keep saying sub-ohm tanks are a joke for VW devices). The 14 wraps provide more than enough surface area, the relatively thin wire heats up fast so there's also 0 ramp up time.. and I can simply bump up the voltage and run it at 50 watts with 7.68 volts no problem.. And if you do the math that's only 6.5 amps whereas if I had a 0.5 resistance it would be 10 amps to get the same wattage.. which means my battery will last longer and indeed it does
On the other hand it's funny because it's above ohm and it can put some cloud-chasers to shame.
One of these days I'm gonna write a comprehensive guide to building coils and stuff.. the efficient way... then I can just link it when needed

Cheers to all and happy vaping I think I'm off to sleep.. heh

I may be mistaken about the formula. The only electronics work I did was 42 years ago when I studied for an FCC license.

I was just reporting the data on my mod.

 

[thetrucker]

Raise your coil value and lower your watts. Frankly, you're going to have trouble getting there with 24ga wire. A 10 wrap on a 3mm mandrel will give you about .5 ohms, but you'll need just about all the power your mod can make to get the wire hot enough for a lot of vapor. I don't think that will help you. 28 ga is probably a better idea.

Very well said.......my thoughts exactly..........

 

[thetrucker]

I say move to 26 or 28 gauge Kanthal and build to about 1 ohm. Back down the watts and you will be much happier.

Exactly..............

 

[Two_Bears]

Exactly..............

Thanks brother.

 

[JDC1958]

Well you know.. it's not that black and white. I keep trying to inform people that we're kinda riding the horse backwards.. but meh.. Most prefer just throwing a big chunk of metal in their atomizers that they saw on some random youtube video instead of stopping for a second and thinking Anyway.. resistance is only one factor and like I keep saying.. if we're talking about a regulated VW mod, then it kinda becomes insignificant.. it's just an informative value and not a defining one.. Heat flux is the real parameter people are looking for, and they keep confusing it with resistance, which only matters in mechanicals / unregulated mods

Cheers to you though!

I am new so I don't understand the science very well. I was just making a statement based on the felt heat of three different tanks I own at certain ohms on my Sig 75. I am pretty sure I did not hallucinate what these coils heat felt like at .2 and .5 ohms on my Sig 75. I can even say I disliked the .2s so much; that after the .2s that came with the tanks were used up, I did not buy any more.

The .2s I dialed in at 40 to 60 watts. No matter what wattage they were at, they were hot and almost metallic tasting to me. As fas as the .5s go, I set the watts consistently for all three at 20 to 25 and all three tasted cooler, heated my box mod less, and the tips up less than the .2s. The LEMO2 is easily the coolest feeling and tasting. I am guessing some of that has to do with the quality of the peek insulator. But that is just a guess.

Maybe with my own build and the LEMO2, I would like a .2 or .3 coil; but for now I want to focus on .5 to 1.0. So far the LEMO2 is working like a charm at .5 and in the end this may be the best setting for me; but I do want to experiment some.

 

[JDC1958]

Well you know.. it's not that black and white. I keep trying to inform people that we're kinda riding the horse backwards.. but meh.. Most prefer just throwing a big chunk of metal in their atomizers that they saw on some random youtube video instead of stopping for a second and thinking Anyway.. resistance is only one factor and like I keep saying.. if we're talking about a regulated VW mod, then it kinda becomes insignificant.. it's just an informative value and not a defining one.. Heat flux is the real parameter people are looking for, and they keep confusing it with resistance, which only matters in mechanicals / unregulated mods

Cheers to you though!

I understand the excitement of a new hobby, studying, building, and reaching for perfection. I started out running Linux OS in 1994 on a top of the line 486 DX4 : ) Four or five years later I had it running on a Super Micro MB, Dual P3 Processors, IBM SCSI drive, Adaptec 2940 card, and you can throw in another 1000 dollars for the sound card, speakers, and video card.

Now fast forward to today. I have Linux running on a bland HP Desktop by today’s standards and just want it to work; which it does just fine.

I like the science of vaping to some extent; but I look at this more like I look at my PC these days. I just want it to work every day and do exactly what I need it to do

 

[mcclintock]

Wicking fail probably on that one. But you don't really need that big of coils for 60 watts or what I would consider not a hot vape, or require moving a huge amounts of air to cool.

24 gauge is big wire so the last thing you need is to parallel or twist it except for super high power. You can wrap a smallish coil with it but it will be low ohms but it will be low voltage. With a regulated mod that doesn't necessarily matter. I was using a single 26 gauge micro coil at 12 watts, 5.5 wraps on 1/16" ... that's .6 ohms at 2.6 volts. Slightly inefficient electrically, but may be advantageous for flavor. You should probably be looking at dual not twisted about .3 ohms total to stay under 60 watts. If that's still too much try single under 30 watts.

The thing about resistance is it was tied to power output of mechs. Now we can try comparing a thick short coil to a long thin piece of wire. Using a thicker wire means lower resistance and higher power. Using less wraps/wire length means lower resistance and less power.