New EGO?_e-cigarette 016 Starter Kit

[Fedor]

I'd like to join in the discussion as soon as i get my Absolute Maxx.

I don't really know if its the same as the T-rex but its from the supplier that i've ordered for more than a year so thats enough reason for me to get the Maxx.

The main selling point for me is the price, button (stainless steel) and the possible higher voltage battery. I also like the idea of an LED ring band instead of an LED button. It should reach be within the next few days so i look forward to sharing my reviews. Its been some time since i've been so excited.

 

[candre23]

A fully charged Joye PV reads about 3.95V unloaded. A fully charged M401 reads about 3.1V unloaded. The how or why is unimportant, the fact remains that PV's that read 4.2V right off the charger do in fact provide a higher loaded voltage and more watts.

You're not getting it. All batteries run at an average of 3.7V. That start off at ~4.2V, quickly drop to ~3.8V, then slowly drop to about 3.5V when the protection circuit cuts them off. They're all the same.

The only difference comes in when a manufacturer adds some circuitry to reduce the voltage. All standard 510 batteries do this. So does the ego, and so do many mini and super-mini ecigs.

So either you have a "native" 3.7V device or a regulated 3.2V device. The maxx/trex is a native 3.7V device. The distributor that is claiming it is a 4.2V device is using the same marketing trick that laptop makers use when they claim "Up to 11 hours of battery life". That "up to" is their loophole. You'll only get 11 hours under highly controlled conditions that make the laptop effectively useless. In the real world, you're lucky to get 5 hours. Sure, the maxx/trex will measure 4.2V on a full charge, but so will every other 3.7V device out there. And just like every other 3.7V device, it'll drop down below 4V within the first couple drags.

It is a recognized convention that we call all unregulated li-ion batteries "3.7V", even though they all operate over a range of voltage depending on their charge level. By calling the maxx/trex a "4.2V device", the distributor is implying that they're using a different technology, and that their batteries will somehow perform better than every other 3.7V mod. In reality, they've changed nothing but their labeling criteria. They're playing dirty marketing games, and sketchy though it may be, maybe it was worth it because it seems to have worked on you at least.

 

[Sojourner]

Well, I was just speaking from a consumer perspective I guess. I know there's voltage differences. I just alter my experience by changing atties. Low resistance does wonders for me whether it's a 3.2v or 3.7v. I own a Bartleby, laser mod and Provape. I have used the eGo since January. I have 12 of them and 4 Rivas. I just got the Hello 016. I was just saying that I have really enjoyed the eGo/Riva vaping and now with my Hello 016, (as a consumer with some experience), I'm really enjoying it, I think the price is good, and I'm really liking it a lot. It hits good and the battery life is awesome in a relatively small package. I think a lot of people would really like this one. It hits a little harder than an eGo but vapes with that same kind of convenience and enjoyment - just lasts much longer.

Just wanted to add that. Now I'll just recede back to observer as you guys carry on the voltage discussion. I'm glad you guys know this stuff and I appreciate having access to the wealth of knowledge on this forum. I don't think I've expressed my appreciation for that publicly here yet. So I'd like to say thank you to all. You've helped in many ways and I've gained much here.

 

[NebulaBrot]

My experience is limited but all my research supports Candre23's statements. Further, the T-Rex link I posted T-Rex PV (and perhaps not all vendors are this clear)

"Battery capacity:more than 660mAh Working Volt:3.5-4.5V ,output 1.2 Ah"

Granted, the 4.5 might be a bit of a stretch.

 

[Richie G]

It is a recognized convention that we call all unregulated li-ion batteries "3.7V", even though they all operate over a range of voltage depending on their charge level. By calling the maxx/trex a "4.2V device", the distributor is implying that they're using a different technology, and that their batteries will somehow perform better than every other 3.7V mod. In reality, they've changed nothing but their labeling criteria. They're playing dirty marketing games, and sketchy though it may be, maybe it was worth it because it seems to have worked on you at least.

In essence, the TRex/Maxx is an eGo/Tornado WITHOUT the regulated circuitry? They are pretty much a standard 510 e-cig but utilizing a 650 mah battery in lieu of the 180 mah standard battery? One should only expect about 4 hours usage from Maxx/T-Rex if he/she got about an hour from a standard 510 battery?

Thanks, Candre.. Just want to make sure I'm clear on this.

 

[candre23]

In essence, the TRex/Maxx is an eGo/Tornado WITHOUT the regulated circuitry? They are pretty much a standard 510 e-cig but utilizing a 650 mah battery in lieu of the 180 mah standard battery?

Yes to the first, not quite to the second. It breaks down like this:

Standard 510: 180mAh battery, regulated to 3.2V
ego/tornado/riva: 650mAh battery, regulated to 3.2V
Maxx/trex: 650mAh battery, unregulated (3.7V average)
Bauway/Hello 016: 1300mAh battery, unregulated (3.7V average)

Almost all mini and super-mini standard batteries are regulated to 3.2V to extend battery life. The only ones that I know for a fact aren't regulated (give full 3.7V) are KR808 batteries. There may be others as well, but I haven't yet seen comprehensive tests that demonstrate it.

 

[NebulaBrot]

Well, I was just speaking from a consumer perspective I guess. I know there's voltage differences. I just alter my experience by changing atties. Low resistance does wonders for me whether it's a 3.2v or 3.7v. I own a Bartleby, laser mod and Provape. I have used the eGo since January. I have 12 of them and 4 Rivas. I just got the Hello 016. I was just saying that I have really enjoyed the eGo/Riva vaping and now with my Hello 016, (as a consumer with some experience), I'm really enjoying it, I think the price is good, and I'm really liking it a lot. It hits good and the battery life is awesome in a relatively small package. I think a lot of people would really like this one. It hits a little harder than an eGo but vapes with that same kind of convenience and enjoyment - just lasts much longer.

Just wanted to add that. Now I'll just recede back to observer as you guys carry on the voltage discussion. I'm glad you guys know this stuff and I appreciate having access to the wealth of knowledge on this forum. I don't think I've expressed my appreciation for that publicly here yet. So I'd like to say thank you to all. You've helped in many ways and I've gained much here.

Sojourner, 12 eGos(s), 4 Rivas and Hello 016? WOW! Mad

I have 510 mini, Tornado, Bartleby (AWESOME - and should be same vape as Hello 016/maxx/T-Rex - unregulated 3.7), electronicstix no-inline-batt PT (claims 5V but someone metered one at 4.6), and a PureSmoker true 5V PT. I, too, have been experimenting with LR and HV (and other) attys. While I like the shape and style of Tornado, the Bart is a much nicer vape and more versatile too (in-box charging and PT while charging too)

While this may be a bit OT, still relevent to the overall discussion. One of the Experts in ATV (formerly ATE) section responded with the following about different voltages, atty Ohms and Watts (I think Candre23 posted the same formula):

The Bart is going to be stronger than either the Tornado or the GG slim, and the Tornado will be about the same as the GG, but last longer. The only math that really matters here is

watts = volts*volts/ohms

The watts are the power (heat generated). Volts is the potential the heating element (coil) experiences, and is a function of the battery type (these are all 3.7V Li-ion, but there are 3.0V Li-Fe batts), as well as the circuitry between the batt and the coil, like swiches, resisters, etc. The Tornado coil feels 3.1V, not the full 3.7V. So does a regular 510 batt, as well as the 510 mega batt.

The ohms is the resistance of the coil, and depends on the atty itself. Regular 510 attys are about 2.5 ohms. Low resistance attys are about 1.8 ohms. High voltage attys are high resistance, and are about 4.5 ohms or more. The DSE510 "washer-type" 510 attys are about 3.0 ohms.

For my Bart, which is a true 3.7V PV, using 2.5 ohm attys,

power = 3.7V*3.7V/2.5 ohms = 5.5 watts

Your Tornado with the same atty,

power = 3.1V*3.1V/2.5 ohms = 3.7 watts

This is actually the same as with a regular 510 batt, but it lasts much longer.

Once you think in terms of watts, you will be able to fine tune not only what you are looking for, but also what you have. I happen to love 5.5W. Its stronger than regular/mega batts, and attys stay healthier longer because the somewhat higher heat keeps them unclogged more...that's a biggie for me since I vape only VG juices.

What would happen if you put on an LR atty to your tornado? watts = 3.1*3.1/1.8 = 5.2 watts. This would make the tornado almost as strong as the Bart, or other 14500 battery box mods (14500 is a 3.7V battery the same size as a AA, 10440 is the same size as a AAA). The LR atty will of course drain your batt faster.

Your 5V PT with a 2.5 ohm 510 atty:

watts = 5*5/2.5 = 10 watts. Thats too much for me, but some people love it.

Your 5V PT with HV attys:

watts = 5*5/4.5 =5.6 watts. That combo would be a winner for me.

The 14500 mods are often "box mods" and look like the Bart, but as far as I know the Bart is the only USB charge/vape box mod PV. There are sleak 14500 mods too, like the famous one is the Screwdriver. Totally Wicked makes it, but others do too for cheaper. I looks like it sounds, big metal almost elongated-egg handle, and the atty/cart sticking up. I don't think it has a master switch for pockets though. There are other sleek ones, but I don't know any with a switch like the box mods. You might get lucky though.

But as you can see,

1. If you just try out other attys (LR, HV, DSE, Nhaler.com has a range), you have the means right now to tweak your PVs nicely, and find out where your sweet spot is in terms of watts.

2. High voltage is not necessarily high wattage...it depends on the atty resistance.

If I am conservative I can vape all day on my Bart on a single 14500 batt. If I am heavily vaping, maybe 5 hours. We can get an idea of use-time differences between the Bart (900 mAh) and the Tornado (650 mAh). If we call these two numbers the Duraton, D:

D = Amps * hours = (volts/ohms)*hours

D/Amps = hours of service (continually pressed button, given the atty doesn't fry)

For the Bart, and given that 900 mAh = 0.9 Ah:

hours = D*ohms/volts = .9Ah*2.5ohm/3.7V = 0.62 hours

Each button pressing time length takes that much off the total 0.62 hours.

For the Tornado:

hours = 0.65Ah*2.5ohms/3.1V = 0.52 hours. So given the same vaping, I will get a bit more time out of my Bart than a Tornado.

Your Tornado with an LR atty:

hours = 0.65*1.8/3.1 = 0.36 hours

More watts with the LR, but shorter batt time.

Study all this, and you will be in great shape to really understand PVs, and get you to primo vaping for not a lot of money very soon.

PM me if you have more questions.
Good luck, good vaping!
Kurt

 

[johnnybass]

That is what i was thinking candre23 i didn't think that was possible either, it would be nice if it a solid 3.7 though, I have a riva and i'm not sure what it puts out.

 

[sanfordf]

That is what i was thinking candre23 i didn't think that was possible either, it would be nice if it a solid 3.7 though, I have a riva and i'm not sure what it puts out.

The same thing all e-cigs put out, analog butts!

Sorry,......couldn't resist.

 

[WillyB]

You're not getting it. All batteries run at an average of 3.7V. That start off at ~4.2V, quickly drop to ~3.8V, then slowly drop to about 3.5V when the protection circuit cuts them off. They're all the same.down below 4V within the first couple drags.

.

No it seems your not getting it. I understand batteries quite well. As I said:

We are talking about comparing devices, not batteries. A fully charged Joye PV reads about 3.95V unloaded. A fully charged M401 reads about 3.1V unloaded. The how or why is unimportant, the fact remains that PV's that read 4.2V right off the charger do in fact provide a higher loaded voltage and more watts.

The fact still remains that devices that read 4.2V right off the charger do in fact provide a higher loaded voltage and more watts... period. All your meandering little examples do not change that simple fact.

 

[candre23]

The fact still remains that devices that read 4.2V right off the charger do in fact provide a higher loaded voltage and more watts... period. All your meandering little examples do not change that simple fact.

It provides more watts than a 3.2V device, but not more watts than a 3.7V device - because it is a 3.7V device. If it provides an average of 3.7V, it should be labeled as such (just as all other 3.7V devices are). All 3.7V devices start out at 4.2V, but they all drop down almost immediately. Calling it a 4.2V device is disingenuous. End of story.