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bladebarrier

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yes i needed a shorter 510 to 510 adapter. I firgure 5/8 in long would work mine was too long so i grinded down the leo collar a little. I did put a leo atty on battery after i grinded the battery collar down you really cant tell. So if or when leo does come out with a tank system I could still use my leo batteries. Where I bought my leo to 510 adapter they did say they would soon have an adpapter that would work with ego-t atty but I could not wait...

I don't blame you. The Leo is still pretty new, so it's always going to lag a bit behind the ego setups, but I have high hopes for the boge tank system. The 801 style just produces so much flavor and vapor, that I never expected to use a 510 again.

If they produce a better version of this LR tank, for the Leo, that should be the end all of vaping, for me.

I'll probably order a MAP tank to try it out, but carrying dental equipment, and syringes around, in my car or pocket, sounds like a real PITA, in the event that a cartomizer goes.

I mean, who wants to be out having dinner, and have to perform precise surgery on their enormous mod, just to vape after eating, if something fails.

I agree. For now, the ego-t LR "just works", and hopefully the leo-t atty will be the next step up.

I still never understood why 801's aren't the craze, and these mods didn't come out for those first.
 

bladebarrier

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Don't say that. I am having a VV mod custom made with a native eGo connection to put my tank attys on......

If it's VV, you won't have to worry. Just dial in your preference :)

You will still get the ability to tweak it based on the juice, which is what makes VV mods so cool.
 

Elendil

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If it's VV, you won't have to worry. Just dial in your preference :)

You will still get the ability to tweak it based on the juice, which is what makes VV mods so cool.

My point was that I don't want them to stop making the standard attys.......
 

bladebarrier

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I don't know how many times I've read that now. It seems that loads of people have experienced muted flavors with their tanks. - I have not. Some of my flavors taste a lot different then they do in my other PVs, but I haven't noticed a *lack* of flavor. - Every PV I own makes my flavors taste different than with any other PV I own, so I didn't think much about it.

My sweet flavors (like caramel, root beer, licorice etc) actually seem more flavorful from my tank. The tobacco flavors taste a lot different than I've become used to from my other PVs, but I've been blaming the fact that the vapor is cooler.

That leads me to a question: The LRs should produce warmer vapor, but is it warm enough to overcome the mouthpiece design and actually deliver warmer vapor?

It's all preference. I find that an 801 LR, dripped, or bottom fed, is the ultimate for taste. That's assuming a 3.7v mod.

I hooked up a 1.5ohm 801 lr cisco to a 5v passthrough, and could vape 3-4 drops in under a second, and have almost no taste. It's like it nuked it completely.

I tend to vape more "muted" juices. Sweet, but subtle. That's why an 801, or LR 306/510, works well for me. If I put say FSUSA candycane, on ANY mod, you'll still taste it the next day, when you wake up. It's a nice flavor, but it doesn't need much re-inforcement.

Same company, FSUSA, and I vape hopscotch on a standard 510, cartridge, using normal filler, and I barely know I've vaped anything. Same hopscotch, on the 801 LR, on a 5v, and it disintegrates, and aside from the huge vapor cloud, I can't taste much.

You just have to find that perfect in between, that works for the juice, the mod, and works for YOU.
 

bladebarrier

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My point was that I don't want them to stop making the standard attys.......

I doubt they would. It's a perfect option for VV's, and more and more vendors are starting to build for HV mods (boge, MAP 3.2ohm from cov, cisco's site states he'll being making some, iken, etc).

The more people start to get used to ecigs in public, the more these mods won't be so scary, either.

A year ago, if you walked into a bar with an ego, people would think it was huge. Now they think it's sleek.

Soon, walking around with a pro-vari and a MAP tank, will be almost not as bad as if you're carrying some sort of alien taser device.
 

bladebarrier

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If nothing ever comes out better than the ego-t atty I am good with that. For me this just plain works. I have had a bad atty but even If I buy 1 new atty a week at 15 bucks each I got no problem with those numbers at all.....I guess I am just to easy to please...

It's a lot cheaper than the alternative. Even the monetary cost aside.
 

Stonemull

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I am pretty sure the resistance is dropping on mine, when I first got them, they where both 2.2 on my fluke, the provari when it arrived said they where 1.7 and 1.9, double checked and the fluke agreed.

Now dropped to where there is no longer any point using the Provari with them as its cutting off at 3.4v and 3.7v, so back on the eGo they have gone.

Just used an LCR meter and I get 1.493Ω and 2.046Ω

will check them again later in the week.
 

six

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I have to say my lr does produce more flavor,more vape warmer vape,more th and easier draw.

Thanks. I just ordered a couple to try them out. The more I use the tank system, the more I like it. Pretty much everything I own is 510 threaded, but I'm finding myself using the tanks more and more often. I also picked up some megas and except for the gurgling, I like them quite a bit too... but the tank is cleaner and easier.
 

Scottbee

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I am pretty sure the resistance is dropping on mine, when I first got them, they where both 2.2 on my fluke, the provari when it arrived said they where 1.7 and 1.9, double checked and the fluke agreed.

Now dropped to where there is no longer any point using the Provari with them as its cutting off at 3.4v and 3.7v, so back on the eGo they have gone.

Just used an LCR meter and I get 1.493Ω and 2.046Ω

will check them again later in the week.

I've had the resistance drop on quite a few of my (standard) atomizers. When they get below 1.3Ω or so they can start causing grief with the eGo.... and if it continues to drop, it will damage the MOSFET.

Generally speaking, I have been able to get the atty resistance to "go back up where it belongs" via an extended dry burn. That would lead one to believe that the coil is getting a film/coating on it of liquid residue that is conductive. This could be a function of the liquid type that you are using.
 

Stonemull

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Been sticking to dekang juices to see how the wicking holds up.
I thought the same with the juice residue shorting it, seems an amazingly low resistance though to be able to do that.

It just died .. went open, which I'm not sure a current leak between coil turns is likely to cause.

Might see what my vendor thinks about warranty, its long short of 6 months .. and get higher resistance ones for provari use.
 

Stonemull

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So I was offered a refund .. but turned it down for research purposes.

Amazing the gunge build up under the spike plate. I am going to be removing that plate, cleaning and replacing it in future when it starts to taste 'off'. It is press fit into the can holding the ceramics and can be removed with some careful sideways force .. reinsert by putting it onto a tank and pushing the tank into place. Not sure on the chance of damage doing it this way, but a horrible tasting atty is also pretty useless.

out of curiosity, I debridged an 'A' atty had a look, the A has a much larger cup holding the atty and less mesh around it, then attempted to place the spike plate on the A.
No can around the A atty means the plate will not stay in place, putting the spike (with wick) onto a tank and then vaping on the debridged A atty was amazingly good though. Like .. 'the best vape I have ever had' good.
The tank does not push all the way in so air leaks around the top, sealed with a rubber band or fingers seemed to reduce flavour slightly interestingly enough. So poor flavour with the ego-T and mega attys to me seems to be related to either the metal mesh somehow or just possibly, it needs some air mixed in with the vapour after heating .. not sure yet.

Will be experimenting with this little combo a bit more, though it did seem to lose the amazing performance after 20 minutes of solid vaping on it. I couldn't put it down.
 

kelleymcm

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I finally cleaned my ego-t atty TO DEATH ......so sad .... there was a pile of wick all gunked up on coil & when I went to pick it out...... it was stuck to coil well enough to break one end of the coil..... the end of that one . lasted 31 days , - a few days down while waiting for replacement wick , So I think I got my $13.50 out of it :)
 

pandatera

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I was trying to fix one of my tank atty, when removing the plate, the wick wasn't on the plate and it was stuck on the coil. When I remove the wick, the wick was still all stranded together with the mesh though. The wick looks dark brownish color, I'm looking to replace the wick. If my tank atty still can fire up does that mean the coil is ok? Sorry for asking stupid questions, I'm still fairly new to this.
 

Uncle Screwtape

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I was trying to fix one of my tank atty, when removing the plate, the wick wasn't on the plate and it was stuck on the coil. When I remove the wick, the wick was still all stranded together with the mesh though. The wick looks dark brownish color, I'm looking to replace the wick. If my tank atty still can fire up does that mean the coil is ok? Sorry for asking stupid questions, I'm still fairly new to this.

The wick is not trashed. Take it and hold it in the tip of a tweezer or pliers. Take a lighter and light the wick on fire. I've found that the brown gunk on the wick will burn for a few seconds. When it goes out, hold the flame of the lighter on the wick again until the wick is glowing orange. At this point your wick will be white,just like new. The wick material does not burn, the dark stuff is burnt juice. Just be gentle with the wick, put it back in the needle slowly with a pin or small paperclip.

If the coil has a bunch of gunk on it, do a couple of dry burns. Quick ones, just 'til it glows. The gunk will turn to ash.

I have found that the easiest way to get the needle plate back in is to stick it on a tank and use it to push the wick into place.
 

Kevin H

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I didn't think that it was possible to take apart an Ego T atty, and successfully get it back together, and have it still work. I have one that I would like to take apart to see if it is salvagable. Anyone who's done it before like to walk me through the steps (if you have the time to)? What tools would I need to try? Thanks to anyone that can help.
 

Filthy-Beast

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I didn't think that it was possible to take apart an Ego T atty, and successfully get it back together, and have it still work. I have one that I would like to take apart to see if it is salvagable. Anyone who's done it before like to walk me through the steps (if you have the time to)? What tools would I need to try? Thanks to anyone that can help.
I don't think you can pull it all the way apart. Pulling out the needle plate is pretty easy though. Just grab the flat sides with a needle nose pliers and pull.
 

Stonemull

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or push the spike sideways towards one of the slots if no pliers. its a push fit into the top .. I did a video when i pulled my deceased one apart and attempted to make a hybrid atty with an ego A.. YouTube - ego T massacre

the heater assembly ain't coming out without a dremel .. not that I can see, I tried a vice and vice grips, its in there for ever.
the spike plate however is only pushed into about a mm of metal cup.

the latter half is ego A

Warning: I'm not a good cameraman, director, actor or editor :)
 
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